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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-12-2016, 10:24 PM   #2611
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i went ahead and did what i was thinking in a earlier post with the rear carrier spacing. i used a 1mm thin shock nylon shock limit spacer that came with the kit. used 1 bushing in the front carrier and .5 offset down and out in the rear carrier. believe i'm at 1-2deg AS and 3 deg toe in. washers in pic look bigger than they really are due to the chassis bevel in that area

while i had the rear carrier off i did some beveling on it, less chance of it snagging/catching something now. ironicly they did do a bevel at the top, imo should have been done on the bottom both sides
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Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-de-carrier.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-de-spaced.jpg  
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:24 PM   #2612
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:28 PM   #2613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
i went ahead and did what i was thinking in a earlier post with the rear carrier spacing. i used a thin shock nylon shock limit spacer that came with the kit. used 1 bushing in the front carrier and .5 offset down and out in the rear carrier. believe i'm at 1-2deg AS and 3 deg toe in.

while i had the rear carrier off i did some beveling on it, less chance of it snagging/catching something now. ironicly they did do a bevel at the top, imo should have been done on the bottom both sides
That's a TON of toe. Rear grip for days!
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:37 PM   #2614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
They're the same as every other brand car out there. (Losi, AE etc)
Which would make them 3/32. Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:45 PM   #2615
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What's that last pic you posted Socket? A custom made part?
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:54 PM   #2616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Where do I pay?
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:22 PM   #2617
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I don't think I have ever heard of 7075 cast parts. It usually requires some post processing to achieve 7075, which isn't normally possible in a casting.

A tensile failure can leave a crystal fracture surface that could look like a porous casting. The mode of failure does appear to be an over-load in bending due to the cantilever. Pretty simple to fix with a revision to the part.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:47 PM   #2618
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Should have used loctite for those broken rear hangers.

That's blatantly the cause of this

Xray cop out.
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Old 04-13-2016, 02:13 AM   #2619
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Hi,

Does anybody got any setups for astroturf yet?
Is setups there any setups from Yatabe arena last autumn
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:28 AM   #2620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
i may have a flywheel puller we can try to pull it out with if you like.. i think you need to just get a new set of hexes for the front..

dont get too crazy cutting at it.. bring it saturday.. if i can find my flywheel puller.. i will bring it and see if we can work it out of there..
I got it off, ended up drilling out the screw. Thanks though
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Old 04-13-2016, 06:36 AM   #2621
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Quote:
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Where do I pay?
I agree. I found this pic on the facetoobs, no links or explanations on where to buy it, though.
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Old 04-13-2016, 08:38 AM   #2622
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Adding a washer. 5 or 1mm will also change the roll center
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Old 04-13-2016, 09:35 AM   #2623
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So I got a reply from XRay about the rear suspension. Looks like they are sticking to their BS "we've never had a problem" excuse. Apparently they expect us to just commonly replace a $30 part after a few race days of normal use. I'm just shocked they didn't tell me to use more loc-tite.

Needless to say, I'm not impressed with XRay's continued denial of such an obvious design flaw. Starting to regret not going Associated. They would have at least sent me a new part or a less BS filled answer.

Quote:
Dear Sir,

Thank you for your email and your interest in XRAY products. Please note that some impacts to the "right" spot during the race may cause bend or even breakage. Compare to competition cars we use stronger suspension arms made from hard composite, therefore the arm does not break in every crash. But of course this results in that in some cases when the back of the car or rear bottom is hit from certain angle and with certain power, the holder may bend or break.

During the developmet and testing we did not experience any problems related to the rear arm holder. We may consider to reinforced it even more in the future.

If we can help you in any other way, please let us know. We will be more than happy to assist you or help you out.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:03 AM   #2624
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Does this mean the replacement part is going to be of the same quality? So, replace every time this happens, or are they going to make a new hanger that all must just purchase?
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:30 AM   #2625
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A buddy emailed them, and they're going to replace it.
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