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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-12-2016, 06:06 AM   #2581
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To those running Low profile servos: How do you get the cable to fit next to the servo mounts? I just picked up an MKS low profile HBL575SL and I think I'd have to remove the grommet and fold over the cable, maybe use some plasti-dip to keep it from shorting. Anyone else had trouble with similar servos or same?

Thanks in advance!
If you haven't got it I'll post a pic of mine lmk
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:36 AM   #2582
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I bought my XB2 used and the guy stripped the small screw in one of the wheel hexes. Any tips for getting it loose? I've tried different size allen wrenches and can't get anything to grab enough. I have a ez out set, but don't think it's small enough. I'm pretty much at the point of drilling the head off the screw and trashing the hex.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:45 AM   #2583
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Try heating it with the tip of ur sodering iron
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:50 AM   #2584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
I bought my XB2 used and the guy stripped the small screw in one of the wheel hexes. Any tips for getting it loose? I've tried different size allen wrenches and can't get anything to grab enough. I have a ez out set, but don't think it's small enough. I'm pretty much at the point of drilling the head off the screw and trashing the hex.
use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a small groove into the head without going to deep. then use a good flat head screw driver and take it out that way. you may also want to heat the screw up to make this easier as well.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:12 AM   #2585
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Quote:
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use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a small groove into the head without going to deep. then use a good flat head screw driver and take it out that way. you may also want to heat the screw up to make this easier as well.
While this is a good tip in general, the screw he is talking about is way too small for that, and also you would have to cut into the wheel hex.
I think your best bet is to drill the head off, you might be able to twist the rest of the screw out after you get it off.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:37 AM   #2586
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Drill it out.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:01 AM   #2587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
I bought my XB2 used and the guy stripped the small screw in one of the wheel hexes. Any tips for getting it loose? I've tried different size allen wrenches and can't get anything to grab enough. I have a ez out set, but don't think it's small enough. I'm pretty much at the point of drilling the head off the screw and trashing the hex.
Depending on how tight it is, you might be able to tap the axle out - when the hex is off, it shouldn't be tough to remove the screw at that point.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:02 AM   #2588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
I bought my XB2 used and the guy stripped the small screw in one of the wheel hexes. Any tips for getting it loose? I've tried different size allen wrenches and can't get anything to grab enough. I have a ez out set, but don't think it's small enough. I'm pretty much at the point of drilling the head off the screw and trashing the hex.
On something that small it's difficult.

I don't have my car in front of me - is the hole drilled and tapped all the way through? If so, drill it from the backside. I'd get a .059" drill bit, and drill it from the backside. This should drive the screw out backwards.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:03 AM   #2589
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Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Depending on how tight it is, you might be able to tap the axle out - when the hex is off, it shouldn't be tough to remove the screw at that point.
There's still a pin behind the hex that will press against the bearings.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:23 AM   #2590
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i may have a flywheel puller we can try to pull it out with if you like.. i think you need to just get a new set of hexes for the front..

dont get too crazy cutting at it.. bring it saturday.. if i can find my flywheel puller.. i will bring it and see if we can work it out of there..
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:28 AM   #2591
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A pinion puller or flywheel puller will be your best bets.
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Old 04-12-2016, 11:54 AM   #2592
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Hate to bring up a sore subject, but now that I've run my new DE several times I wanted to show the results on the rear suspension holder. I run primarily on a relatively rough hard packed dirt track, so I figured this would be a good durability test. I haven't broke a single part yet, but I can see why the design of the rear hanger is prone to break now. This is my first modern buggy, so I don't know how other brands are, but on the XB2 the rear suspension holder is lower than the chassis allowing it to receive some excessive abuse under normal driving conditions.

Here are some pictures to show my hanger is tweaked, and is most likely going to break soon. Notice how the right side is starting to bend up and buckle where the screw hole is. For the record, I did loc-tite these screws and check them after every run; they have never come loose. This is happening because the hanger is hitting the ground before the chassis.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-xb2-1.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-xb2-2.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-xb2-3.jpg  
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:00 PM   #2593
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Wes, Email Xray directly. Newest reports have shown that they will send you a new one. (if it's broken...time to test if a bent one will get replaced)

iirc, the holder on the B5M is flush with the chassis. Perhaps an added rear skid plate would help.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:17 PM   #2594
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Thanks Socket, I'll do that.

Are there rear skid plates available for the XB2? That sure would be nice to save the rear of the chassis. Even with a chassis protector it gets hit pretty hard.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:19 PM   #2595
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Thanks Socket, I'll do that.

Are there rear skid plates available for the XB2? That sure would be nice to save the rear of the chassis. Even with a chassis protector it gets hit pretty hard.
Nothing out yet. I think a better move would be two fold:

Make the hanger out of billet aluminium, and also reset the geometry to 3 degrees toe at centered offset. This would allow adjustment from 2 to 4, instead of making us start at 4.

Please email exotek at performance@exotekracing.com and request it, as I have done.
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