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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-11-2016, 04:33 PM   #2566
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To those running Low profile servos: How do you get the cable to fit next to the servo mounts? I just picked up an MKS low profile HBL575SL and I think I'd have to remove the grommet and fold over the cable, maybe use some plasti-dip to keep it from shorting. Anyone else had trouble with similar servos or same?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:44 PM   #2567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
To those running Low profile servos: How do you get the cable to fit next to the servo mounts? I just picked up an MKS low profile HBL575SL and I think I'd have to remove the grommet and fold over the cable, maybe use some plasti-dip to keep it from shorting. Anyone else had trouble with similar servos or same?

Thanks in advance!
I've seen onroad guys open up the case and simply cut another opening for the wires to redirect them.
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:54 PM   #2568
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If I was a better driver, I would also get a CE as well, just for SCVRC. 1 of very few places I see very high traction. All the CE people should make a pilgrimage to SCVRC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericschlaifer View Post
The straight at SCVRC is 95' not 70
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Old 04-11-2016, 04:55 PM   #2569
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Just notch the mount for your servo cable using a dremel tool. Or buy the aluminum mounts if you aren't comfortable doing that. It took about 15 seconds to make a notch.
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:26 PM   #2570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
If I was a better driver, I would also get a CE as well, just for SCVRC. 1 of very few places I see very high traction. All the CE people should make a pilgrimage to SCVRC.
I was at SCVRC yesterday with my CE and ball diff last night on Proline Primes.

Car was feeling really good there. Made some changes with gearing, timing and softened up the rear springs and I was good to go.
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:08 PM   #2571
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So.. I just did the dirt conversion on my carpet edition.. Here is the things that I noticed.

First. The holes to hold in the rear lower diff case.. Are not in the carpet chassis.

Next.. There is quite a few bits of hardware you need in order to do this build. I was able to manage with some screws from my screw box. The biggest ones are the 40mm screws that mount the motor plate. And the long counter sunk screws that go through the bottom of the chassis to mount the diff to the chassis.

If your using aftermarket slipper or exotek eliminator. Your gear cover won't fit.

You will need to do modifications to the body for it to mount.

You will also need a long 3mm pin to mount the battery strap. You can't use the carpet battery strap.

Alot of the carpet kit screws that you think you will use are too long.

But you need for sure the 40mm button screws. And the 22mm countersunk screws or you can't do the build.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:27 PM   #2572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
So.. I just did the dirt conversion on my carpet edition.. Here is the things that I noticed.

First. The holes to hold in the rear lower diff case.. Are not in the carpet chassis.

Next.. There is quite a few bits of hardware you need in order to do this build. I was able to manage with some screws from my screw box. The biggest ones are the 40mm screws that mount the motor plate. And the long counter sunk screws that go through the bottom of the chassis to mount the diff to the chassis.

If your using aftermarket slipper or exotek eliminator. Your gear cover won't fit.

You will need to do modifications to the body for it to mount.

You will also need a long 3mm pin to mount the battery strap. You can't use the carpet battery strap.

Alot of the carpet kit screws that you think you will use are too long.

But you need for sure the 40mm button screws. And the 22mm countersunk screws or you can't do the build.
Weird, my carpet chassis has them.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:37 PM   #2573
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My chassis was one of the first. Wonder if it was a running change. But my chassis does not have the 2 centered holes.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:48 PM   #2574
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My gear cover fits just fine with the schelle on my DE. I didn't think the CE had a gear cover?
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:48 PM   #2575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
My chassis was one of the first. Wonder if it was a running change. But my chassis does not have the 2 centered holes.
That's probably it. Sucks though.
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Old 04-11-2016, 08:50 PM   #2576
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I ordered the gear cover.. And use the exotek eliminator. And it won't work.
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Old 04-11-2016, 10:58 PM   #2577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
I ordered the gear cover.. And use the exotek eliminator. And it won't work.
Gear covers are overrated anyway.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:26 AM   #2578
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Has anyone messed with any wing in place of the xray?
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Old 04-12-2016, 04:18 AM   #2579
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I just mounted up the UPgrade RC Vortex 10, hope to be able to get to the track this weekend.

http://www.rcidcustom.com/mm5/mercha...ory_Code=Wings
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:41 AM   #2580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
My chassis was one of the first. Wonder if it was a running change. But my chassis does not have the 2 centered holes.
mine doesn't either... its really made no impact on me switching out and adjusting my diff though.
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