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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-06-2016, 08:37 AM   #2476
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Socket, You may want to consider shimming the shock out at the tower and not the arm. Shimming it out on the arm puts the shock at a bad angle to the arm and will cause binding.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:24 AM   #2477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
Is the rear tower backwards? I had that mistake. The instructions don't give good specifications as to the front or back of the tower. Ok I see it's the link on the hub positioned on the back hole.

socket's shock tower is not backwards, mine is same way, i used the instruction book front cover picture when i built my car. on a DE the shock tower upper mounts sweep back.

even with a stock build...the rear shock spring and link are close. moving ballstud as shown in picture above they will rub and interfere, if you don't space off the bottom shock. the rear shock position is also more vertical after doing this. there is no binding
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:39 AM   #2478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
Socket, You may want to consider shimming the shock out at the tower and not the arm. Shimming it out on the arm puts the shock at a bad angle to the arm and will cause binding.
It actually makes the shock sit at a much better angle with the tower.
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Old 04-06-2016, 12:07 PM   #2479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by English365 View Post
Has anyone had much success running the gear diff on medium- high bite clay like what's found at club Rc. If so, what weight did you settle on? Also, what fans are recommended for the motor? Any chance an r1 fan will fit?
I started at 1000k and tried 3000k with a 7.5. I liked it way better than the ball diff. Very smooth!

I was going to try 5000 & 7000 next. BTW, this is with the carpet car with the 4 gear standup top shaft tranny & battery in the rear position.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:59 PM   #2480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Bent - Update on 69 or 72 spur? Thx
+2
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:27 PM   #2481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
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I would recommend just doing the Avid slipper. This way you won't need to worry about over priced parts that only RC america and Amain carry.
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Old 04-06-2016, 06:33 PM   #2482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCristo View Post
Socket, You may want to consider shimming the shock out at the tower and not the arm. Shimming it out on the arm puts the shock at a bad angle to the arm and will cause binding.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It actually makes the shock sit at a much better angle with the tower.
What he is saying is there there is an angle that the shock sits in relation to the arm. By moving the shock only, you are changing the angle and causing binding.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:01 PM   #2483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
socket's shock tower is not backwards, mine is same way, i used the instruction book front cover picture when i built my car. on a DE the shock tower upper mounts sweep back.

even with a stock build...the rear shock spring and link are close. moving ballstud as shown in picture above they will rub and interfere, if you don't space off the bottom shock. the rear shock position is also more vertical after doing this. there is no binding
Thanks, I discovered that in the picture! It seems that a company like xray would not have a simple problem, like messed up geometry with its shocks and camber links. That just dumb!
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:06 PM   #2484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by punkracer24 View Post
What he is saying is there there is an angle that the shock sits in relation to the arm. By moving the shock only, you are changing the angle and causing binding.
I don't see the binding, at all.

I checked it with a straight edge; the shock is not angled backwards or forwards at all. I pulled the spring, and compressed the shock to different heights, and the shock balls didn't show any binding. I also checked the hinge pins as well.
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Old 04-06-2016, 08:19 PM   #2485
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Is the AE spring slightly larger diameter than the Xray spring? Might explain the need for the shim.
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Old 04-07-2016, 04:06 AM   #2486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
Is the AE spring slightly larger diameter than the Xray spring? Might explain the need for the shim.
The camber link is really close to the spring in the center hole as the kit setup uses, if you want to move out out one hole you have to also move it forward (angles the link too much) or to the rear which causes the link to rub on the spring.
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Old 04-07-2016, 05:56 AM   #2487
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
The camber link is really close to the spring in the center hole as the kit setup uses, if you want to move out out one hole you have to also move it forward (angles the link too much) or to the rear which causes the link to rub on the spring.
This is also with the hub pushed forward.
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Old 04-07-2016, 09:14 AM   #2488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I would recommend just doing the Avid slipper. This way you won't need to worry about over priced parts that only RC america and Amain carry.
Do you have a link for it. I can't seem to find it
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:09 AM   #2489
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I've just purchased the B5M 3 gear top shaft for use with the Schelle or Avid slipper setup. I have a few of these slipper setups so I have a lot of parts to spare. I also picked up the new centric drive plates:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...hl1317/p488781
This is the top shaft I'm using:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...c91606/p404377
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:11 AM   #2490
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I'd suggest this clutch package from Schelle if you are running stock. If you want a 69tooth youlll need to grab one, as this comes with 72 and 76.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...hl1301/p300535
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