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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-04-2016, 11:59 AM   #2431
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
In regards to the rear outer camber link position, I was looking at moving mine out as you have yours but it looked to me like it would interfere with the spring where you have it. Since it was already really close with the camber link in the center hole.
Thanks for all the setup work/advice, I'll be trying out this setup next time i get to the track.
I changed to a 16mm length screw, and added a 2mm shim behind the lower shock eyelet to move the spring away from the camber link.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:06 PM   #2432
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thats good to hear.. i have the carpet edition.. and i have all the parts to convert to the DE.. how much different is your setup between the 2 for the same track?
A good bit actually. I bought both kits, the CE first. When the DE came out i only used the parts necessary to convert. I am now using kyosho springs and AE spring cups. Other than that , just different pistons, oils and I adjusted my camber link settings.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:51 PM   #2433
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damn.. sounds like im gonna have to do alot of work to get it to where i am now.. i been working alot on this Carpet edition.. where it is now.. pretty locked in.. but i still feel like i could be quicker..
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:04 PM   #2434
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Im not sure if many of you guys have experienced this or not but when switching between a ball diff and gear diff there is a huge difference in how they accelerate. It seemed as if my ball diff was slipping yet there was no barking noise coming from it (all 3 of my ball diffs do the same thing). It didn't seem to matter how tight i tightened my ball diff. I started to thing that maybe the rings themselves are turning on the diff out-drives. Yesterday I took my ball diff apart an checked the rings where they sit on the diff halfs and sure enough, both rings had a polished portion where they had been turning on the diff out-drives. I cleaned everything and added a couple dabs of super glue between the rings and out-drives and no more slippage. No more acceleration problems, both ball diff and gear diff had almost identical acceleration....

Just an FYI.
Had the same problem only my diff didn't make it had to buy a new one RCA said ca the rings .. I still have forward bite issues idk what to do I tried several adjustments with no luck
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:17 PM   #2435
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Socket did you end up using AE lower spring cups? Or did the Associated springs fit in the Xray cups?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:18 PM   #2436
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you need AE lower cups.. i think the middle set of the 3 is closest to the Xray cups.
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:19 PM   #2437
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Yeah they are cheap enough it isn't a big deal to pick them up.
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:29 PM   #2438
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Socket did you end up using AE lower spring cups? Or did the Associated springs fit in the Xray cups?
AE spring cups. Used same size at b5m for offset. They fit nice and snug.
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:59 PM   #2439
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I run ae springs fronts are fine with xray cups rears use ae I have every ae cup worth it U can run about any spring with their cups
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:40 PM   #2440
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First bit of bling for my xb2.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-04-2016, 03:43 PM   #2441
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Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
got my xb4-16 and also 3/4gear parts after a slow build I started on the 3gear as per directions page 37 the pin does not fit, I measured it 2.45 all the other holes were 2.97 no way it could fit they sent me a 3 gear ,gear box and it didn't have the holes at all idk what's up???? call RCA 2mar... what did u use for the schelle I tried but didn't like the mesh with B5mv2 shaft 1mm shim and correct bearings
blame the RC company that has the patent the 3 and 4 gear box in one.

that's probably why the 4 gear gearbox has a different number and why the hole is under sized in the 3 gear gearbox. At least Xray was smart enough to put a guide hole for us to use.
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:03 PM   #2442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I changed to a 16mm length screw, and added a 2mm shim behind the lower shock eyelet to move the spring away from the camber link.
Also you show that you are using the 0 slot steering link (the carbon piece on the knuckle) The stock one is the 2 slot. I just want to double check that what you have on the sheet is correct, I was thinking about ordering those or the one slot anyway, so I'm not opposed to buying new parts, but if I can put it off I will haha.
Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:02 PM   #2443
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
Also you show that you are using the 0 slot steering link (the carbon piece on the knuckle) The stock one is the 2 slot. I just want to double check that what you have on the sheet is correct, I was thinking about ordering those or the one slot anyway, so I'm not opposed to buying new parts, but if I can put it off I will haha.
Thanks.
Oem steering link. Sorry for the incorrect part. I will correct it when I have a little time tomorrow.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:37 PM   #2444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
In regards to the rear outer camber link position, I was looking at moving mine out as you have yours but it looked to me like it would interfere with the spring where you have it. Since it was already really close with the camber link in the center hole.
Thanks for all the setup work/advice, I'll be trying out this setup next time i get to the track.
Double check the rear shock tower. I accidentally put it on backwards. And the shock spring was way to close to the rear camber link. Actually right on it.

Last edited by jake alton; 04-04-2016 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:45 PM   #2445
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Oem steering link. Sorry for the incorrect part. I will correct it when I have a little time tomorrow.
No problem, thanks for the clarification.

Quote:
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Double check the shock tower. I accidentally put it on backwards. And the shock spring was way to close to the rear camber link. Actually right on it.
Ill double check that too thanks!
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