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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 04-04-2016, 05:51 AM   #2416
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Im not sure if many of you guys have experienced this or not but when switching between a ball diff and gear diff there is a huge difference in how they accelerate. It seemed as if my ball diff was slipping yet there was no barking noise coming from it (all 3 of my ball diffs do the same thing). It didn't seem to matter how tight i tightened my ball diff. I started to thing that maybe the rings themselves are turning on the diff out-drives. Yesterday I took my ball diff apart an checked the rings where they sit on the diff halfs and sure enough, both rings had a polished portion where they had been turning on the diff out-drives. I cleaned everything and added a couple dabs of super glue between the rings and out-drives and no more slippage. No more acceleration problems, both ball diff and gear diff had almost identical acceleration....

Just an FYI.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:54 AM   #2417
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On another note, I wish the car had a bit more rear droop, maybe ill try the long kyosho shock ends...
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:27 AM   #2418
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Originally Posted by English365 View Post
I was able to find where Wils posted a teaser photo, but not a write up. Maybe I'm just blind.
You'll need a B5M V2 top shaft.

You'll need a 5x13x5 front bearing. This bearing is very uncommon, so you may buy a 5x13x4 which is a very common losi bearing. I bought the TKO special, and then added 1.2mm shims inside the trans. Make sure the slipper side bearing is pushed all the way out, as if it's not, it can affect your slipper plate placement.

I only run the schelle as a dual disk, and love it. I stripped a 78 tooth spur on Saturday, and was super happy I could walk in my LHS and buy a few extras instead of having to keep stock on another xray part.
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Last edited by Socket; 04-04-2016 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:29 AM   #2419
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
On another note, I wish the car had a bit more rear droop, maybe ill try the long kyosho shock ends...
I talked about that previously in a few of my setups. The kyo long ends will help; however the length isn't that far off the other cars. I would tell you to pull all limiters, and unscrew the lower eyelet until you can get to 94.5mm over all length.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:40 AM   #2420
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good work socket.. i tried some of your setup.. and picked up around 4tenths this weekend.. thanks again.. i didnt doo much in the geometry side.. since im still running carpet edition.. i got all the parts to convert to DE.. so.. i might try that this next race weekend..
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:02 AM   #2421
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I talked about that previously in a few of my setups. The kyo long ends will help; however the length isn't that far off the other cars. I would tell you to pull all limiters, and unscrew the lower eyelet until you can get to 94.5mm over all length.
Just to add to this. I went ahead and ordered KYOLA43 from Losi parts house for $3 to try, and will report back with pics.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:03 AM   #2422
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Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
good work socket.. i tried some of your setup.. and picked up around 4tenths this weekend.. thanks again.. i didnt doo much in the geometry side.. since im still running carpet edition.. i got all the parts to convert to DE.. so.. i might try that this next race weekend..
Glad I could help. There's some more left in this car. I really need/want to try the narrow pivot, as I think the stock pivot is much TOO wide imo.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:21 AM   #2423
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Im not sure if many of you guys have experienced this or not but when switching between a ball diff and gear diff there is a huge difference in how they accelerate. It seemed as if my ball diff was slipping yet there was no barking noise coming from it (all 3 of my ball diffs do the same thing). It didn't seem to matter how tight i tightened my ball diff. I started to thing that maybe the rings themselves are turning on the diff out-drives. Yesterday I took my ball diff apart an checked the rings where they sit on the diff halfs and sure enough, both rings had a polished portion where they had been turning on the diff out-drives. I cleaned everything and added a couple dabs of super glue between the rings and out-drives and no more slippage. No more acceleration problems, both ball diff and gear diff had almost identical acceleration....

Just an FYI.
Curiosity here, are you running the carpet or dirt at club Rc?
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:24 AM   #2424
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
You'll need a B5M V2 top shaft.

You'll need a 5x13x5 front bearing. This bearing is very uncommon, so you may buy a 5x13x4 which is a very common losi bearing. I bought the TKO special, and then added 1.2mm shims inside the trans. Make sure the slipper side bearing is pushed all the way out, as if it's not, it can affect your slipper plate placement.

I only run the schelle as a dual disk, and love it. I stripped a 78 tooth spur on Saturday, and was super happy I could walk in my LHS and buy a few extras instead of having to keep stock on another xray part.
Thank you!
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:56 AM   #2425
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Originally Posted by English365 View Post
Curiosity here, are you running the carpet or dirt at club Rc?
I have both and prefer the dirt edition, both can be equally quick its much harder to run consistently with the CE.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:10 AM   #2426
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I have both and prefer the dirt edition, both can be equally quick its much harder to run consistently with the CE.
Do you attribute that to the motor mounting?
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:34 AM   #2427
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Do you attribute that to the motor mounting?
Yes, almost entirely due to the weight distribution.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #2428
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post

Here's where I am at now. Pay attention to rear shock placement, rear shock overall length measured from eyelet to eyelet, as well as the rear camber link. On the inner akerman link, I Added a 1mm shim to the stock 2mm shim. This helped calm the car down immensely, and make it VERY smooth from off-center steering.

I tried the high wing and it made the car jump horrible.

Some added notes: No battery brace, schelle slipper with two white pads. 2 degrees anti squat with 3 degrees rear toe. This car has an INSANE amount of on power traction. Car weighs 1550 ready to run, has a 37% front and 63% rear bias.

My current layout (updated setup wasn't on the car yet):
In regards to the rear outer camber link position, I was looking at moving mine out as you have yours but it looked to me like it would interfere with the spring where you have it. Since it was already really close with the camber link in the center hole.
Thanks for all the setup work/advice, I'll be trying out this setup next time i get to the track.
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:08 AM   #2429
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Yes, almost entirely due to the weight distribution.
thats good to hear.. i have the carpet edition.. and i have all the parts to convert to the DE.. how much different is your setup between the 2 for the same track?
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:12 AM   #2430
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Default Schelle Slipper assembly

For those wanting to run the Schelle or Avid Slipper assembly.

It goes:
  1. back bearing cover
  2. kit bearing
  3. B5m topshaft
  4. 0.7mm spacers
  5. front bearing cover
  6. 5x13x5 bearing (Link to the one I used)
  7. motor plate
  8. 0.4mm spacers
  9. avid/schelle assembly
  10. spring
  11. Spring cup
  12. nut
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