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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-28-2016, 07:59 AM   #2266
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I say we organize an Xray/OCRC day soon! Also SCVRC, especially since Eric is the man. His CE is dialed. Not sure if he ever comes down to OCRC though...hard to leave when you own the track I think!
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:28 AM   #2267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Hey All, I searched but didn't find much in the way of answers on Alum Servo Arms? What is everyone using? I prefer the clamping if possible so I'm thinking this unit should be perfect:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...819-bk/p292307

Seems to be exactly the same length as the stock plastic and very similar in shape.
The Racers Edge clamping servo horn fits perfectly and is the same geometry.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:52 AM   #2268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Are they same size kyosho spring with changing spring retainer? I thought the kyosho spring is bigger than xray.
The kyosho springs have a larger ID so I used AE shock retainers... mid length I think.
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:28 AM   #2269
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Anyone having forward bite issues it's almost like I have a gear diff in any help will be appreciated
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:28 AM   #2270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
my stock DE car weighed at 1558 at the track yesterday. looking at various sites simple weight loss would come from:

- aluminum wheel nuts
- " " or nylon shock nuts
- " " or titanium screws

not finding any screw kits currently, would have to piece out a set.

car is too new, so there may not be the interest in lite aftermarket items yet
- titanium hinge pins
- upper shock mounts rather heavy, may be able to piece and part from other cars?
- front axles
- rear axle outdrive
- diff halves
I pieced together some Schumacher aluminum screw packs to use in places I felt comfortable using aluminum, It wont cover all of them but its a decent start.


1 x SCHU4231 - Schumacher Racing 3x8mm Aluminum Button Head Hex Screw (10)
1 x SCHU4232 - Schumacher Racing 3x10mm Aluminum Button Head Hex Screw (10)
1 x SCHU4233 - Schumacher Racing 3x12mm Aluminum Button Head Hex Screw (10)
2 x SCHU4235 - Schumacher Racing 3x8mm Aluminum Flat Head Hex Screw (10)
1 x SCHU4236 - Schumacher Racing 3x10mm Aluminum Flat Head Hex Screw (10)
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:39 AM   #2271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Recommending a laydown car for OCRC is a bold move. You sure that's a good choice?

Personally? I'd run the dirt car there...But you asked the internet, and you'll get an answer that's worth what you paid; nothing.
he asked...i was curious...looked up track...gave a generic answer

i did say:
- seeing the track online only (what i looked at below)
http://www.ocrcraceway.com/track.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_njsVfTSzbo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGIFOzMlqU0
- it looks like hi-bite clay similar or better than SRS
- imo

and to boot reason i used similar or better i did not want to get flamed by the anti-SRS crowd, or hear... how dare you compare us to them!
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:41 PM   #2272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
he asked...i was curious...looked up track...gave a generic answer

i did say:
- seeing the track online only (what i looked at below)
http://www.ocrcraceway.com/track.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_njsVfTSzbo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGIFOzMlqU0
- it looks like hi-bite clay similar or better than SRS
- imo

and to boot reason i used similar or better i did not want to get flamed by the anti-SRS crowd, or hear... how dare you compare us to them!

Here's the problem....if some one asks me how to put out a metal fire, I can answer with, "spray it with water"...when I have zero experience as a fire fighter. This doesn't help, it misguides someone...and guessing is as bad as spreading horrible misinformation.

You didn't have to answer the post...you've never done any more than look at a pic online, and you're giving this person advice as fact. Sure you can say that you're not completely sure, or you think it might be similar...which all couldn't be further from the truth.

You're a sharp guy, focus on answering questions you know for fact what the answer is, not a guess. Look at the 5-6 replies after, all saying you couldn't be more wrong.

Hell, I'm wrong all the time too, that's why if I don't know the answer 100%, I just won't answer.
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:59 PM   #2273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Hell, I'm wrong all the time too, that's why if I don't know the answer 100%, I just won't answer.
LIES lol
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Old 03-28-2016, 02:32 PM   #2274
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For those considering purchase of an Xray Car, Having built and worked on many many cars and brands over the years, Xray is very very high quality. I've just completed the build of my CE kit and I was very impressed with the design of the car, as well as the overall quality of the kit. Everything went together without a hitch, the manual is a high gloss full color easy to read, dream manual. I haven't driven the car yet but I expect it will be really nice. I specifically purchased the CE model to run on Carpet at 702 in Vegas. I will then convert it to be a clay car when I return, and I plan to purchase most of the DE parts for local SoCal racing (mostly OCRC).

Some Highlights really worth mentioning in my book:

-Bearings have had the grease removed and are oiled with Aero Shell bearing oil. They spin very smooth right out of the box.
-Transmission has alignment pins, so it goes together easy and spins smooth first time. Done and Done.
-Motor plate attaches to the Chassis in the Front, this help keep Spur and pinion alignment tighter during jumps and bumps/and hard acceleration. It should also keep the motor plate from getting bent.
-Inclusion of Hard and Medium parts - AWESOME
-Transmission and Gear diff are very smooth.
-Optional Ball Diff is also very smooth.
-Body is Pretty Dope
-Screw Down Wing mount is stock. As it should be!

I could probably think of some more things I dig about this car but I should be working!
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:22 PM   #2275
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What temperature range is ok when racing a 17.5? In regards to the motor timing do u adjust that in direct relation to the temp..? For Example say 160 degrees is a safe temp so you turn the timing up till the motor comes off at that temp. But say with that specific motor It runs more efficiently and faster when the timing is turned down a little bit and comes off at a lesser temp. What im getting at is do I need some fancy motor meter and amp meter to find the sweet spot or is the temp an ok way to dial it in? Thanks alot guys.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:18 PM   #2276
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Originally Posted by lagcisco View Post
My CE was garbage at ocrc. I used a ball diff. My CE was worlds better at LRH and SCVRC.

I have a DE waiting to be built. So far I've yet to meet another xb2 owner in SoCal.
Your CE inspired me to build the CE first. I can't get over how well the car drives on slicks at my track. I want to build a DE soon but have been recommending the DE to my customers.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #2277
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What temperature range is ok when racing a 17.5? In regards to the motor timing do u adjust that in direct relation to the temp..? For Example say 160 degrees is a safe temp so you turn the timing up till the motor comes off at that temp. But say with that specific motor It runs more efficiently and faster when the timing is turned down a little bit and comes off at a lesser temp. What im getting at is do I need some fancy motor meter and amp meter to find the sweet spot or is the temp an ok way to dial it in? Thanks alot guys.
What brand motor are you running, what timing, and what gearing? Temp is suggestive - you need to be focused on feel and speed. Also, at SRS you need to be running a fan, and preferably an 8.4V fan.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:37 PM   #2278
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So is anyone converting their CE to DE or just buying another kit? I like having spares so I'm leaning on another kit but I already have a ball diff so it's a close call.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:37 PM   #2279
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Tekin Gen 3 not the rpm version, 35 degree timing, 72/33. The car came off today at 135-140ish. The speed and overall feel felt great, just not sure if that temp is ok. Dont have a fan yet still need to get on that.
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:49 PM   #2280
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Originally Posted by KyJoe340 View Post
So is anyone converting their CE to DE or just buying another kit? I like having spares so I'm leaning on another kit but I already have a ball diff so it's a close call.
Personally, I will build another car. But, it would depend how often. You run where there will be enough traction to use the laydown transmission. I don't get to run anywhere other than SCVRC very often, and when I do it is usually at Hotrod Hobbies. For those that don't know, it is outdoor wet track. While I could probably make my carpet car work at the other indoor tracks, my CE will never work at HRH. If you could use each version of the car once a month two cars makes sense, if highbite is a once a year occasion for you a conversion could make more sense for you.
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