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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-25-2016, 11:06 AM   #2206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
someone asked posts back why i used the brass nose piece, it was for steering and not for jumps. for 17.5 was maybe not the right choice...weight wise

i ran the DE stock set-up with 29deg brass and 0deg insert in C-hub on a actual dirt track (only watered) Weds. the car had killer steering with no effect on rear end. the imo was good on single, double jumps, it went where i pointed it and had a onroad (which i'm used to) feel thru the course. i really liked the car.

however...the course has a quad section, and a jump to table top with a quick following triple. this is where.....I and the car failed really bad. at this track if you can't one shot the quad, and 2 step the other, u will be left behind. this part was severely aggravating

several factors play here?
- me
- car was too heavy w/brass nose (landed short)
- running a older 17.5 and old lipos (worked in previous car fine)
- charging at 6 amps (max on my charger)
- car was too soft
- was trying to figure pinion gearing for 75 spur.
- was also running a 1/8 scale e buggy, which made me marshal the heat right before 17.5, and robbed time thru the night that imo should have been on my DE.

for tomorrow i made changes to try:

Socket's 35w F, 32.5w R, 1 deg AS, 3 deg R-toe changes. on springs i will try xray 2 dot F/R. i removed the brass nose, went to stock, but going to stay with 0 deg insert in C-hub for steering.

the 1/8 buggy broke in it's 2nd place finish, so it will stay home awaiting a horizon order.
Do we know the spring rate on the 2 dots?

That said, your next steps should be to laydown the upper rear shock mount, and a set of 4, 2x1.6 pistons. As well as fixing the front droop. (Need more of it).
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:07 AM   #2207
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i also went to the 2 hole pistons you mentioned earlier, i forgot to type that


i could take out that spacer on the rear shocks, the one between the shock cup and ball mount per the instructions...is that what you did? front shock has the same spacer in the shock per instructions under the piston

ooberman posted this on page 140

the stock rear is a 1 dot that is c=0.35/2.0 lb. the stock fronts are definitely not c=0.70/4.0 lb, the 2 dot is a c=0.65/3.71 lb.

anyone know what the specs for the front 1 dots are?
my guess is c=0.57 or 0.58 = 3.25 or 3.31 lbs

Front
368183 Linear 1 dot C=??
368184 Linear 2 dot C=0.65 or 3.71 lbs/inch
368185 Linear 3 dot C=0.72 or 4.11 lbs/inch
368186 Linear 4 dot C=0.80 or 4.57 lbs/inch
386174 Progressive 2 stripes C=0.65-0.85 or 3.71-4.85 lbs/inch

Rear
368284 Linear 1 dot C=0.35 or 2.00 lbs/inch
368285 Linear 2 dot C=0.40 or 2.28 lbs/inch
368286 Linear 3 dot C=0.45 or 2.57 lbs/inch
368287 Linear 4 dot C=0.50 or 2.86 lbs/inch
386273 Progressive 2 stripes C=0.35-0.45 or 2.00-2.57 lbs/inch

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 03-25-2016 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:16 AM   #2208
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Xray 2 dots are pretty stiff.
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Old 03-25-2016, 11:24 AM   #2209
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i saw you went with AE white 3.30 F and AE white 2.18 R.

the xray 2 dots imo although stiffer are closer to the changes you made. also the issue of linear vs high freq springs also may factor in?

i don't have any other manf. springs at this time
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Old 03-25-2016, 01:22 PM   #2210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
i saw you went with AE white 3.30 F and AE white 2.18 R.

the xray 2 dots imo although stiffer are closer to the changes you made. also the issue of linear vs high freq springs also may factor in?

i don't have any other manf. springs at this time
They're worth a shot. The 3x1.3 setup is still funky to me also.
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Old 03-25-2016, 02:04 PM   #2211
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I feel all the xray springs r too soft I run AE one above factory on my xb2 and 2 above "rate/Lbs on my xb4
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Old 03-25-2016, 05:12 PM   #2212
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On my carpet edition I've been running AE yellow FR, blue RR on super high bite, and it's super good. I found moving the rear shocks in on the tower and arm made a huge different on rear bite, the car is locked in.

Also shortening up and lowering the rear camber link made the car a lot faster in the corners.
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Old 03-25-2016, 10:17 PM   #2213
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Took me the better part of the day but its done. image by
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Old 03-25-2016, 10:24 PM   #2214
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Very nice wiring job... I like my cars the same way.
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Old 03-25-2016, 10:27 PM   #2215
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Quote:
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Very nice wiring job... I like my cars the same way.
Thank you, If its not clean I lose my mind, cant stand a messy setup.
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Old 03-26-2016, 06:33 AM   #2216
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Those cars were killer last night on a loose slippery indoor track. The DE I must admit is on pace with everything currently out.
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:35 AM   #2217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Those cars were killer last night on a loose slippery indoor track. The DE I must admit is on pace with everything currently out.
Any idea if they were close to stock setup or ?
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Old 03-26-2016, 09:54 AM   #2218
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Socket - are you content with your updated setup? Please post. Also, is this a stock setup, as I see you were selling the reedy 17.5? Did you find a better suited motor? Thx man

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Do we know the spring rate on the 2 dots?

That said, your next steps should be to laydown the upper rear shock mount, and a set of 4, 2x1.6 pistons. As well as fixing the front droop. (Need more of it).
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:02 AM   #2219
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Socket - are you content with your updated setup? Please post. Also, is this a stock setup, as I see you were selling the reedy 17.5? Did you find a better suited motor? Thx man
Hey there. Going to race mod today. I used to be SUPER in to stock, and loved it, but after racing nitro, I just can't handle the lack of speed and punch in 17.5.

That said, i'm not content yet. I have a few "tricks" that we did with the b5m I am going to try today, as well as fixing the front and rear droop from the box setup. I'll post an update later today with my feelings.
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Old 03-26-2016, 04:20 PM   #2220
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I just had a fantastic idea. Has anybody considered swapping the odd sized ballstuds to AE B5 series? I did have a ball cup pop off my XB2 after taking a hit from another racer. Maybe somebody less lazy than myself can measure the links center to center to see if they are close to the same size as the B5M or 22 links. If we have an over achiever with access to the parts, you could even measure the rods without ends....although I'd imagine that the ends are different lengths...I dunno. I'm sure you get what the rock is cooking.
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