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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-23-2016, 09:49 AM   #2146
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Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
Then NO meaning for (C) then!! Ok I will give up on needing to know!! Or I will make up my own!
C is newton/millimetre
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:56 AM   #2147
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C is newton/millimetre
Ok thank you!
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:02 AM   #2148
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The car handles very well and feels solid. Kit set up, It has so much off power steering and jumps nose high for me. I had to remove shim behind on steering rack to take Ackerman out. And raise rear roll center. Used 2 hole Pistons front and back 35wt front and 30wt rear with stock Springs all around. Also dialed out steering dual rate. Car feels so much easier to drive fast compared to yokomo and b5m. Hands down best car out of the box! I moved battery from rear to front of car. No different in control or feel? Also going to try brass front bulkhead. To help keep nose down while jumping.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:16 AM   #2149
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The car handles very well and feels solid. Kit set up, It has so much off power steering and jumps nose high for me. I had to remove shim behind on steering rack to take Ackerman out. And raise rear roll center. Used 2 hole Pistons front and back 35wt front and 30wt rear with stock Springs all around. Also dialed out steering dual rate. Car feels so much easier to drive fast compared to yokomo and b5m. Hands down best car out of the box! I moved battery from rear to front of car. No different in control or feel? Also going to try brass front bulkhead. To help keep nose down while jumping.
What anti squat?
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:09 PM   #2150
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What wind motor?
7.5 motor i think too much if i run 69/33 pinion or 72/28
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Old 03-23-2016, 12:36 PM   #2151
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7.5 motor i think too much if i run 69/33 pinion or 72/28
7.5, not a 17.5, right?

For a 7.5 I'd start at 22x78.
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:15 PM   #2152
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you dont wanna run a 7.5 with 69/33
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:45 PM   #2153
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finally got my new radio in, finished up my car and will hit a outdoor track today which can be loose/dusty to medium varies on watering

using a 23/29 front brass block, 29deg side, in front C-hub went 0deg insert. total caster is only .5 more than kit starting point of 28.5. rest of car is per kit instructions.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:08 PM   #2154
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finally got my new radio in, finished up my car and will hit a outdoor track today which can be loose/dusty to medium varies on watering

using a 23/29 front brass block, 29deg side, in front C-hub went 0deg insert. total caster is only .5 more than kit starting point of 28.5. rest of car is per kit instructions.
Brass front? That'll be interesting.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:15 PM   #2155
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Why would the brass front bulkhead keep the nose down?
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:18 PM   #2156
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Why would the brass front bulkhead keep the nose down?
It would help some, but anti squat would have more of an affect.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:25 PM   #2157
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What anti squat?
Stock set up 2degrees
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:43 PM   #2158
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Nose up conditions - I consider the rear suspension being too soft in either spring or pack. Just a spring or piston change could fix that if the car feels fine in all other conditions.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:50 PM   #2159
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Nose up conditions - I consider the rear suspension being too soft in either spring or pack. Just a spring or piston change could fix that if the car feels fine in all other conditions.
I would have to agree with you. I had my 22 3.0 flying like a dead fish nose high until i went up a spring in the rear and now it is 10x better.
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:41 PM   #2160
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7.5, not a 17.5, right?

For a 7.5 I'd start at 22x78.

Yep 7.5 not 17.5
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