R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

Print Wikipost

Like Tree23Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-18-2016, 08:45 AM   #2011
Tech Master
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to 13Maschine
Default

yea....I'm definitely not happy and planning to return them. It's funny ProTek turnbuckles are listed with a 4mm wrench size and I measure mine to be 3.5mm.

They also list them as grade 5...

"6AL-4V Grade 5
6AL-4V, or more commonly known as Grade 5, is a Titanium alloy mixture composed of 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. It is significantly stronger than pure titanium but more expensive to manufacture. Grade 5 is the most widely used titanium alloy for its excellent combination of low weight, high strength and corrosion resistance."

Do you work for Lunsford?
__________________
SoCal R/C Privateer, find me at either OCRC or SCVRC!
My JUNSI POWERED Rides: Xray XB2 CE, Hot Bodies D413, Kyosho RB6, HobbyWing Xerun 3.1, Futaba 4PX, Futaba and MKS Servos, Speed Passion Hirosaka and HW V10 Powerplants!
First car Kyosho Pegasus and RC10CE! More than 25 years Racing! Happy to lend a helping hand. Just ask! :)
13Maschine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 08:46 AM   #2012
Tech Elite
 
Customworksking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Springfield ILLINOIS
Posts: 3,637
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default ##

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I would like to thank Chad and Matt for the help on this.

Looks like the b5m top shaft would fit. Why would I do this? To use the avid Triad or Schelle slipper. Why do I want that slipper? So I can use a 69 or 72T spur gear that many others in the pits use, so if I need one at a place that doesn't stock Xray (No one in AZ does that I am aware of), there's a higher possibility they will have schelle or Avid.

You'll need:

B5M V2 top shaft
5x13x4 (Need 1mm shim then(available from TKO)) or 5x13x5 bearing for the front (available from Boca)

The difference in top shaft will need to be shimmed.
do U have the part numbers so I/we can order.. thanks
__________________
Team Xray | RC America| Hudy |Jaco |AKA
Customworksking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 09:43 AM   #2013
Tech Master
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to 13Maschine
Default

It seems like the Schelle V2 shaft is only sold this way?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...hl1099/p451009
__________________
SoCal R/C Privateer, find me at either OCRC or SCVRC!
My JUNSI POWERED Rides: Xray XB2 CE, Hot Bodies D413, Kyosho RB6, HobbyWing Xerun 3.1, Futaba 4PX, Futaba and MKS Servos, Speed Passion Hirosaka and HW V10 Powerplants!
First car Kyosho Pegasus and RC10CE! More than 25 years Racing! Happy to lend a helping hand. Just ask! :)
13Maschine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 09:49 AM   #2014
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
yea....I'm definitely not happy and planning to return them. It's funny ProTek turnbuckles are listed with a 4mm wrench size and I measure mine to be 3.5mm.

They also list them as grade 5...

"6AL-4V Grade 5
6AL-4V, or more commonly known as Grade 5, is a Titanium alloy mixture composed of 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. It is significantly stronger than pure titanium but more expensive to manufacture. Grade 5 is the most widely used titanium alloy for its excellent combination of low weight, high strength and corrosion resistance."

Do you work for Lunsford?
I do not work for Lunsford.

The Protek's were not Grade 5 when I purchased them last, about a year ago. They COULD have changed manufacturers, but I have a feeling they hadn't.
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 09:55 AM   #2015
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
do U have the part numbers so I/we can order.. thanks
Yea, I'll throw together some part numbers in a bit. I for some odd reason have a 5x13x5 bearing sitting in my stash - no clue where I got it from. I've owned several b5m's, a D812, D815, a D8TTE, MBX7R and a losi 4.0 in the last year, so I need to figure out where exactly it came from.

I had planned on using the TKO special 5x13x4 and just shimming the 1mm difference.

This is the top shaft Matt Trimmings measured:


http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...FVBbfgodFM4GdA

5x13x4

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...-2rs-2/p453932

5x13x5

http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...3x5-SMR695ZZW5
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 11:07 AM   #2016
Tech Master
 
todb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Tacoma, Wa
Posts: 1,442
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to todb
Default

I have purchased some titanium screws from SMC, and the come in gold as well, and they were very good quality. However Lunsford is still the best imo. And I have no affiliation to Lunsford. Although I did meet him at a race in Tacoma late last year.
__________________
OVA Neo. HW, Motiv.
Orange is faster.
todb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 01:12 PM   #2017
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

What spring rates are stock?
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 02:58 PM   #2018
Tech Master
 
13Maschine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to 13Maschine
Default

I've met Kelly way back in the late 90s, also at Tacoma RC raceway. Gold cup I think. Awesome guy.

I wish they made an XB2 turbuckle kit. I couldn't see one.

I have a few sets of Lunsford screws and Turnbuckles and they have always been awesome. I so rarely break or bend either of them that I usually transfer between cars if I can.
__________________
SoCal R/C Privateer, find me at either OCRC or SCVRC!
My JUNSI POWERED Rides: Xray XB2 CE, Hot Bodies D413, Kyosho RB6, HobbyWing Xerun 3.1, Futaba 4PX, Futaba and MKS Servos, Speed Passion Hirosaka and HW V10 Powerplants!
First car Kyosho Pegasus and RC10CE! More than 25 years Racing! Happy to lend a helping hand. Just ask! :)
13Maschine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 03:05 PM   #2019
Tech Master
 
xrayracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Under your bed.
Posts: 1,179
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I saw the Protek titanium screw kit for the XB2. Now after reading these posts abot their quality, I think ill pass......
__________________
Gavin.

Converting nitro to electric is utter blasphemy.
xrayracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 03:06 PM   #2020
Suspended
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,124
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Lunsford DOES make a screw kit for the XB2...

https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...CARS-XRAYXB2CE
__________________
Best Avatar on rc-tech
Socket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 03:46 PM   #2021
Tech Regular
 
WesRaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Lunsford DOES make a screw kit for the XB2...

https://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/m...CARS-XRAYXB2CE
I hope they make a DE kit soon.
__________________
Wes Raven - ActivRC.com
Ventura Roadrunners - RoadrunnersRC.com
WesRaven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 03:57 PM   #2022
Tech Master
 
xrayracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Under your bed.
Posts: 1,179
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Correct me if im wrong, but wouldn't the screws in the CE be the same as the DE?
__________________
Gavin.

Converting nitro to electric is utter blasphemy.
xrayracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 04:20 PM   #2023
Tech Regular
 
WesRaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
Has anyone else had this problem? I haven't run my Dirt Edition yet but I did notice the head is not wide enough or the screw is not close enough to the pin.
Yes, I had to add washers on the front arms; the pin would slide right passed the screw head with no resistance whatsoever. My back arms were fine though.
__________________
Wes Raven - ActivRC.com
Ventura Roadrunners - RoadrunnersRC.com
WesRaven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 04:22 PM   #2024
Tech Master
 
xrayracer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Under your bed.
Posts: 1,179
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WesRaven View Post
Yes, I had to add washers on the front arms; the pin would slide right passed the screw head with no resistance whatsoever. My back arms were fine though.
Same here. I had to add washers as well.....
__________________
Gavin.

Converting nitro to electric is utter blasphemy.
xrayracer1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2016, 04:23 PM   #2025
Tech Regular
 
WesRaven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Correct me if im wrong, but wouldn't the screws in the CE be the same as the DE?
I was curious about the same, and someone answered a few pages back. Here you go:

Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Screws are the same except the gear box screws... and shock tower screws
__________________
Wes Raven - ActivRC.com
Ventura Roadrunners - RoadrunnersRC.com
WesRaven is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:45 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net