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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-17-2016, 02:29 PM   #1996
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i wanted to post this. i dont want to bring up an old topic or anything that people might find "annoying".

I use a receiver that has an external antenna. I had taped my wire to keep it tidy. I found i get terrible reception at distances. I purchased this http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...231013/p251406

I found though that it did not stick well with 2 way tape because i have it going through a hole in the body, and it would rock back and forth when i put the body on.

I altered it by drilling a small hole in tab of the mount, and put a screw through it and mounted it to one of the unused holes in the side mount
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...1260-m/p477680

it holds perfectly and stays in position nicely.

again, in case anyone was having issues still
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:36 PM   #1997
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I finally got to try out my DE car for a couple of packs today. Started with the box setup & a slipper eliminator running 32/72. Before i ever threw it down I noticed that it had a ton of front droop and almost none in the rear so I expected to have make adjustments. My track is medium traction bluegroove....super hard packed dirt with clay mixed in. Out of the box is was pretty good but was uneasy through our 5 pack rhythm section and it had a tendency to wander a bit while settling after our hard 180s. When we pulled the car in we were going to take 1mm of droop out of the front and add 1mm to the rear but my buddy suggested kicking the front shock all the way out on the arm. That did the trick. The second battery was awesome. The XB2 felt at least as good as either of my high dollar B5Ms but turns better. The only thing that still needs a little attention are the springs. I'm going try Kyosho pinks in the front and golds in the rear. My only very minor criticism of the car is that its a little soft. However, despite that its very planted and turns hard. I'm very pleased. I'm going to pick up another one and put the B5Ms away for a while. The cars performance is inline with my very high expectation. The XB4 2016 wasn't a one hit wonder.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:52 PM   #1998
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Anyone try xray narrow pinion gear.

Last edited by Marvel; 03-17-2016 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:20 PM   #1999
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I need some help with gearing. I've never raced Modified before and this will be my first attempt.

What size pinion should i aim for with a 6.5t motor? (It's 5485kv for reference)
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:28 PM   #2000
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20-22 teeth depending on track size and personal preference I'd try.
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:30 PM   #2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
20-22 teeth depending on track size and personal preference I'd try.
Thanks. 👍
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:41 PM   #2002
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I would like to thank Chad and Matt for the help on this.

Looks like the b5m top shaft would fit. Why would I do this? To use the avid Triad or Schelle slipper. Why do I want that slipper? So I can use a 69 or 72T spur gear that many others in the pits use, so if I need one at a place that doesn't stock Xray (No one in AZ does that I am aware of), there's a higher possibility they will have schelle or Avid.

You'll need:

B5M V2 top shaft
5x13x4 (Need 1mm shim then(available from TKO)) or 5x13x5 bearing for the front (available from Boca)

The difference in top shaft will need to be shimmed.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-12516916_10154008234847421_1342490400_o.jpg   Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread-12722234_10154530574482565_1236333747_o.jpg  
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Last edited by Socket; 03-17-2016 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:00 PM   #2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
I would like to thank Chad and Matt for the help on this.

Looks like the b5m top shaft would fit. Why would I do this? To use the avid Triad or Schelle slipper. Why do I want that slipper? So I can use a 69 or 72T spur gear that many others in the pits use.

You'll need:

B5M top shaft
5x13x4 (Need 1mm shim then(available from TKO)) or 5x13x5 bearing for the front (available from Boca)

The difference in top shaft will need to be shimmed.
So the b5m top shaft is the same size gear as the xray??
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:32 PM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
So the b5m top shaft is the same size gear as the xray??
Yes, both are 20T, 48 pitch gears.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:55 PM   #2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude View Post
FYI if the ratio is the same the top speed is the same.... unless the motor is different. What you are talking about makes no sense and is something I hear talked about at the track until I ask people to explain how that's possible, then it goes where it should. Back in the box of racer lore and misunderstandings from back in the brushed day...
On the other hand, brushless has pretty much eliminated the torque issues that used to happen in the brushed days. The torque/speed curve is essentially flat in brushless. That's one of the reasons you can run such large pinion gears compared to a brushed motor.
Feel free to test the theory. I have. I would not put info out that I feel people should not know. Racing stock at the top level with the top guys in the nation, we have tried everything to find one up on each other. Only thing brushless has allowed us is less motor maintenance. Gearing is critical in stock and is company specific. There is no ideal stock gearing for all motors. I know a Tekin Gen2 17.5 (not the rpm one) I gear a 29/75, the Gen3 I gear 33/72 and 31/75 (RPM) in a 1500g prostock buggy. If I use a smaller spur and try the same gear ratio these motors will not work the same as the gearing stated.
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Old 03-18-2016, 06:24 AM   #2006
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Has anyone been able to fit a fan on the dirt edition?
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:39 AM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Feel free to test the theory. I have. I would not put info out that I feel people should not know. Racing stock at the top level with the top guys in the nation, we have tried everything to find one up on each other. Only thing brushless has allowed us is less motor maintenance. Gearing is critical in stock and is company specific. There is no ideal stock gearing for all motors. I know a Tekin Gen2 17.5 (not the rpm one) I gear a 29/75, the Gen3 I gear 33/72 and 31/75 (RPM) in a 1500g prostock buggy. If I use a smaller spur and try the same gear ratio these motors will not work the same as the gearing stated.
I was not saying anything about using different motors or that all 17.5/stock motors are the same and produce the same power. There is a sweet spot in all motors. And it is related to gearing, and endbell timing, and the overall construction of the motor. However, if you are using A motor and just changing the size of the gears but maintaining the same ratio, then the end RPM of the wheels/speed are the same. There is a slight difference in rotating mass with larger gears. But my statement about brushless is very true. The torque curve is very flat. If you look at 12 scale stock the pinion is almost the size spur. You could never do this with a brushed motor. As for your personal experience with gearing. I would think if you are feeling a perceptible difference then more than likely the ratio is slightly different. Just looking at a 48 pitch gear chart I don't see any equivalent ratio's between 69, 72, and 75. In your example 29/75 2.5862, 33/72 - 2.1818, and 31/75 - 2.4194. All are different and all have a different top speed if motor RPM is the same.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:14 AM   #2008
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Gear ratio is analogous to mechanical advantage. Even a minor difference in ratio will create a different RPM and Torque output. Wikipedia has some great equations that show these relationships.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:20 AM   #2009
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I'm building up my Xb2 and I picked up the ProTek titanium screw kit and turnbuckles (I know I don't need the turnbuckles, haha)

I have always used Lunsford screws and turnbuckles and they are top notch. The protek screw heads aren't as tight and Lunsford has a lustre to it that Pro Tek doesn't.
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Old 03-18-2016, 08:30 AM   #2010
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The proteks are a grade 2 USA produced and Chinese machined garbage. If you bought them, buy two sets, you'll need them.

Lunsford are USA produced grade 5 and USA in house machined. They can not be beat by any brand out there, hands down.

Cite: I am in both the high end and low end fastener business
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