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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-16-2016, 05:15 PM   #1981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Will, you going to do one for me as well?

Haha
We just need to lean on Mr. Schelle to make us one... Kurt if you are listening lol
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:28 PM   #1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillS View Post
yup thats close enough to explain lol here is an example at the fine tuning 64 pitch allows.

72 spur 48 pitch / 96 spur 64 pitch
30 - 6.36 / 6.36 - 40
31 - 6.15 / 6.20 - 41
32 - 5.96 / 6.06 - 42
33 - 5.78 / 5.92 - 43

Thank you, that's awesome.
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:41 PM   #1983
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We just need to lean on Mr. Schelle to make us one... Kurt if you are listening lol
yes we need a Schelle
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:49 PM   #1984
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I started to assemble my kit now what is the gear ratio dirt version. Any input kindly appreciated
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:23 PM   #1985
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What are your thoughts of the DE's dust cover for the spur and pinion gears?

I personally dont like that there is no "rubber boot" covering the slipper clutch tension nut.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:50 PM   #1986
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What are your thoughts of the DE's dust cover for the spur and pinion gears?

I personally dont like that there is no "rubber boot" covering the slipper clutch tension nut.
The boot is really not necessary to have unless running on very loose rock infested dirt. A very small rock would have to make its way past the minimal opening.
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Old 03-16-2016, 08:54 PM   #1987
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Originally Posted by jake alton View Post
The boot is really not necessary to have unless running on very loose rock infested dirt. A very small rock would have to make its way past the minimal opening.
Thats the kind of surface i race on. We use a packer to pack the dirt down and use molases to goop the track, but it is a somewhat sandy surface, and you start to notice it when the track goop wears off.
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:19 AM   #1988
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so I got my DE kit last night and was reading thru the instructions. my question for everyone is, don't the bearings come pre-oiled? why would it show to put oil on them before installing?
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Old 03-17-2016, 05:25 AM   #1989
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Originally Posted by Mr Gadget View Post
so I got my DE kit last night and was reading thru the instructions. my question for everyone is, don't the bearings come pre-oiled? why would it show to put oil on them before installing?
it says the same on the carpet edition. I did not oil them though and they are very nice.

I'm Not saying I'm correct, but take it with a grain of salt I guess
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:36 PM   #1990
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Originally Posted by Mr Gadget View Post
so I got my DE kit last night and was reading thru the instructions. my question for everyone is, don't the bearings come pre-oiled? why would it show to put oil on them before installing?
It could be making a suggestion. As with TC and well really any on-road stuff you don't use the bearings with grease in them. Most come pre-greased, but grease does not hold up well and provides too much resistance. So we soak the bearings in motor cleaner over night to dissolve all the grease. The re-lube with light bearing oil. I bought my car assembled so I haven't really looked to see if the bearings have grease in them or they are just oiled. Although with no motor in the car the tranny spins very freely. So my guess is the bearing are just oiled and not greased.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:50 PM   #1991
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Originally Posted by Mr Gadget View Post
so I got my DE kit last night and was reading thru the instructions. my question for everyone is, don't the bearings come pre-oiled? why would it show to put oil on them before installing?
Bearings need to be oiled. As typed here, grease lasts longer and actually slows wear better...but it adds considerable drag. If the bearings are sprayed clean, and/or don't have grease in them... they should be oiled.

However.. a lot of guys don't bother, and just replace them more often.
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:58 PM   #1992
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I'm assembling my new Carpet Edition and I purchased a ball diff as an option. It should be noted that the gear diff is 8 grams lighter, which I would expect to make a significant difference in acceleration. Just to note
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:02 PM   #1993
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Besides motor placement the gears do affect the motor. A taller spur will create a different torque curve in comparison to a smaller spur. Typically a big spur will create more bottom end and top out quicker on the straights even if gear ratio is the same. This also effect braking as the bigger pinion creates a stronger braking effect. Have we forgot physics class?
FYI if the ratio is the same the top speed is the same.... unless the motor is different. What you are talking about makes no sense and is something I hear talked about at the track until I ask people to explain how that's possible, then it goes where it should. Back in the box of racer lore and misunderstandings from back in the brushed day...
On the other hand, brushless has pretty much eliminated the torque issues that used to happen in the brushed days. The torque/speed curve is essentially flat in brushless. That's one of the reasons you can run such large pinion gears compared to a brushed motor.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:05 PM   #1994
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I'm assembling my new Carpet Edition and I purchased a ball diff as an option. It should be noted that the gear diff is 8 grams lighter, which I would expect to make a significant difference in acceleration. Just to note
That's good to know. I would have thought the ball diff would be lighter as that's the way it is in other kits. Specifically AE
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:23 PM   #1995
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Bearings need to be oiled. As typed here, grease lasts longer and actually slows wear better...but it adds considerable drag. If the bearings are sprayed clean, and/or don't have grease in them... they should be oiled.

However.. a lot of guys don't bother, and just replace them more often.
i am one of the guys that would just replace, especially since they arent expensive. However, i will say these bearings are very nice. If i spin the front wheel on this, the wheel spins for at least 2 months. On my losi 22, its like 25 seconds or so. (obviously both are exaggerations on the timing)
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