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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-15-2016, 04:38 AM   #1951
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Relax!! they already stated they will be working on a 69 and a 72.
I didn't see where they stated a 72 was in the works. No need for me to relax as I Dont feel I've said anything that indicates I'm worked up.....lol
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:16 AM   #1952
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I didn't see where they stated a 72 was in the works. No need for me to relax as I Dont feel I've said anything that indicates I'm worked up.....lol
they said a 69t was in the works. They didn't specifically say a 72t was in the works that I have seen.
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Old 03-15-2016, 08:26 AM   #1953
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they said a 69t was in the works. They didn't specifically say a 72t was in the works that I have seen.
That's what I remembered reading as well.
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Old 03-15-2016, 10:16 AM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
I didn't see where they stated a 72 was in the works. No need for me to relax as I Dont feel I've said anything that indicates I'm worked up.....lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
they said a 69t was in the works. They didn't specifically say a 72t was in the works that I have seen.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
That's what I remembered reading as well.
My apologies... it seems I am miss-remembering. It looks like it was pretty much decided on page 59 and 60. A few early recommendations of just a 69... then after Bentka came in and thanked them, a bunch of us recommended both. Not sure how/why they decided to not mention the 72 going forward.

I think the big issue is making the smaller of the two fit anyway. If they can get a 69 to work, they should easily be able to get the 72 out. But I'm just speculating.
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Old 03-15-2016, 01:03 PM   #1955
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Originally Posted by SevetS View Post
Question - If the transmission ratio is constant (2.65 in xb2), does it really matter what spur you run if the gear ratio is the same? A 75/36 (2.083) should run close to a 69/33 (2.091), which should run close to a 66/32 (2.063), right? Other than a slight weight transfer due to motor position, is there something else I'm missing?
you are correct, if the final drive ratio is the same, the only difference is weight placement. Since the motor typically weighs around 150-180 grams, this is the second heaviest item in the car so it definitely makes a difference.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:01 PM   #1956
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you are correct, if the final drive ratio is the same, the only difference is weight placement. Since the motor typically weighs around 150-180 grams, this is the second heaviest item in the car so it definitely makes a difference.
Besides motor placement the gears do affect the motor. A taller spur will create a different torque curve in comparison to a smaller spur. Typically a big spur will create more bottom end and top out quicker on the straights even if gear ratio is the same. This also effect braking as the bigger pinion creates a stronger braking effect. Have we forgot physics class?
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:11 PM   #1957
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Originally Posted by WillS View Post
Besides motor placement the gears do affect the motor. A taller spur will create a different torque curve in comparison to a smaller spur. Typically a big spur will create more bottom end and top out quicker on the straights even if gear ratio is the same. This also effect braking as the bigger pinion creates a stronger braking effect. Have we forgot physics class?
This is RCtech, where the engineers guess and don't worry about factual things like physics.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:20 PM   #1958
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
This is RCtech, where the engineers guess and don't worry about factual things like physics.
Oh that makes sense then.
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:45 PM   #1959
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Thanks for pointing out my simplification. I had purposely neglected moment arm effects due to the size of the gears.
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Old 03-15-2016, 04:54 PM   #1960
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From wikipedia:

"The mechanical advantage of the gear train is the ratio of the output torque TB to the input torque TA, and the above equation yields
MA = \frac{T_B}{T_A} = R.
Thus, the speed ratio of a gear train also defines its mechanical advantage. This shows that if the input gear rotates faster than the output gear, then the gear train amplifies the input torque. And, if the input gear rotates slower than the output gear, then the gear train reduces the input torque."
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:26 PM   #1961
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anyone run their DE on a loose dirt track by chance? still waiting on a radio...bored looking for set-up ideas
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:01 PM   #1962
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Hey guys, has anyone run short of a couple of screws when building their DE? I came up short 2 screws that was needed to mount the rear wing and i had to break out the spare screw bag that Xray always includes with their kits.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:37 PM   #1963
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Hey guys, has anyone run short of a couple of screws when building their DE? I came up short 2 screws that was needed to mount the rear wing and i had to break out the spare screw bag that Xray always includes with their kits.
Did you put 4 or 2 screws in the waterfall? Manual I believe stated only run 2. This is a tuning option. 2 inside vs 2 outside vs all 4. If you have 4 screws in it, you should have the stiffest setting you can run for flex there.
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:49 PM   #1964
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Default Carpet or dirt?

Has anyone converted their carpet version into the dirt edition? I run a stock 17.5 carpet version with the exotek direct drive (69/30), and ball diff on fairly high traction clay/dirt mix with slicks.

IMO the carpet version is pretty good. I have good traction, and the steering is spot on. I'm currently the only one at the local track (IRH) who's running this buggy, so setup is hit or miss. Plus I'm not that great with setups to begin with.

Is the price of the conversion worth it?
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Old 03-15-2016, 06:51 PM   #1965
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anyone run their DE on a loose dirt track by chance? still waiting on a radio...bored looking for set-up ideas
petit rc seems to be jacking all of my setups from the xray forum. my last one specifically is for the dirt car on a looser track.

Quote:
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This is RCtech, where the engineers guess and don't worry about factual things like physics.
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