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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-12-2016, 06:53 PM   #1906
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Whats the trick getting the inside front Schumacher tire to hug wheel better after the wheel is cut down ?
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:06 PM   #1907
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Mine went together lightning fast. There are 3 options for running stock. 1) drill out an AE spur gear and double up on the pads 2) exotek slipper eliminator, or 3) buy the smallest spur XRay has which is a 75.....I think that you can slip a 36 pinion on. I don't like the Xray spur option because I would think it would move the motor to far forward. I don't think that I would trust myself to drill out an AE spur true enough so I bought the eliminator. The weather has kept me from using the car yet. Honestly, the book set up is a little weird. There's a ton of droop in the front and hardly any in the rear. I'm starting with the book set up so I guess I'll find out how it works next week. My XB4 2016 was awesome book setup and all right out of the box so I'm hoping the DE will be the same. I have a feeling that they tested it out quite a bit before releasing it.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:26 PM   #1908
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I have issues with the little detail in the instructions. I simply installed the rear tower backwards. Found out when shocks rubbed against camber links. The small screws and spacer parts simply floating around with the larg plastic parts can get lost if not careful. More considerate detailed tips added, attention to the beautiful colorful instructions would make it top notch. The parts fully assembled are second to none when completed. Other wise all the damn screws with many different size could be simplified to one size possibly. This is my first. Xray car and build. I was expecting better kit assembly. Any how the ball cups are the hardest thing I've ever put together. Pleasantly free though. One inside front hinge pin retaining screw didn't do its job well enough with out a washer. Now I Am anxious to run the car. One more thing the specified spur gears and thin shock Pistons. Suck!!!
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:27 PM   #1909
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Slipper works well. Pay attention to assembly and hold assembly down and keep together while tightening nut.
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:30 PM   #1910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Mine went together lightning fast. There are 3 options for running stock. 1) drill out an AE spur gear and double up on the pads 2) exotek slipper eliminator, or 3) buy the smallest spur XRay has which is a 75.....I think that you can slip a 36 pinion on. I don't like the Xray spur option because I would think it would move the motor to far forward. I don't think that I would trust myself to drill out an AE spur true enough so I bought the eliminator. The weather has kept me from using the car yet. Honestly, the book set up is a little weird. There's a ton of droop in the front and hardly any in the rear. I'm starting with the book set up so I guess I'll find out how it works next week. My XB4 2016 was awesome book setup and all right out of the box so I'm hoping the DE will be the same. I have a feeling that they tested it out quite a bit before releasing it.
I tried the AE gear with double pad and it did not work. Bench tested it and it slipped. Because double up pad had nothing to secure it. I tried it on the out side. Tip on set up??
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Old 03-12-2016, 08:36 PM   #1911
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The one thing about the Xray cars is their manuals. You have to pay close attention. They have steps that you could easily miss if you don't pay very close attention. A good example is the 3mm upstop spacers on the xb4 2016. The only way you know to install them is to observe their picture diagram things on the side. I can't say that any of the builds were rough though.....and the quality is unreal. I have not been able to break an xray car yet and I've kit some stuff hard.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:17 PM   #1912
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so the Xray build is complicated? That sucks cause I'm looking to get one of these in a couple of months.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:46 PM   #1913
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not complicated at all imo. It went together very fast for me. And I am not a speed builder guy at all. Took my time so I could get it right and it was still fast. One day at the most and I know I spent extra time on the shocks.
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:50 PM   #1914
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Easiest best build I ever did!
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:26 AM   #1915
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If you look a few pages back, Xray is working on a 69T spur gear, so it is just a matter of time for the guys who want them to run stock.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:10 AM   #1916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avaldes View Post
If you look a few pages back, Xray is working on a 69T spur gear, so it is just a matter of time for the guys who want them to run stock.
I feel Xray should have gone with a 72 spur rather than a 69. Their market is mainly mod and the american market is 17.5 spec as well ad mod. We have slightly bent the top shaft by tightening down the slipper nut trying to lock the slipper which we have done on every other car. The ideal thing will be to wait for Schelle to release a top shaft so their slipper assembly can be used so more spur options can be used. We have a very competitive stock class out here so we will put this car through the ringer. Anyone else run theirs in stock with over the last week or so care to chime in?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:12 AM   #1917
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I'm running the kimbrough 69 but with the slipper delete in stock and it works great.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:23 AM   #1918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photocycler View Post
I'm running the kimbrough 69 but with the slipper delete in stock and it works great.
Kimrough makes a 72?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:24 AM   #1919
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Kimrough makes a 72?
They do, just can't use a slipper
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:32 AM   #1920
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i cant say enough about the reliability of the buggy. i was doing some bashing around today at the park, and jumped it and when i did, the back end hit a bump or something and somehow forced it to go end over end. It flipped and rolled for what felt like 15 seconds (but probably was only a few) and ended up sliding upside down for a second or two. i quickly walked over and found nothing broke. The only issue was the nuts on the shock tower had some road rash and the shock tower itself had some as well. nothing bent, broke or anything. i flipped it over and did some more driving.

i think i will only ever get xray from now on
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