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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-10-2016, 12:20 PM   #1861
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thanks
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Old 03-10-2016, 03:31 PM   #1862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
The rear shock tower on the DE and CE have different holes for mounting it to the transmission case. You'll defintely need to get the composite one to run the DE case.

The front towers are interchangable though.
Thanks Seth. Yes, I have compared the manuals and concluded the same.
Still not sure whats different about the rear arm pivot pins #327320 and side guards #321260 which are both listed on the conversion list? The Carpet car has those parts in it
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:15 PM   #1863
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I think the side guards are softer for the DE, not sure about the pins tho......
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:54 PM   #1864
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I got my XB2 dirt edition and the manual says the diff is already pre greased from the factory. Does this mean its ready to be broken in? Just wanted to double check.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:19 PM   #1865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
I got my XB2 dirt edition and the manual says the diff is already pre greased from the factory. Does this mean its ready to be broken in? Just wanted to double check.
their diff's are very good break it in and ur good to go I have 3 all smooth like egg's
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:19 PM   #1866
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Originally Posted by blwaz23 View Post
I got my XB2 dirt edition and the manual says the diff is already pre greased from the factory. Does this mean its ready to be broken in? Just wanted to double check.
Check how much grease it has, as it may need a little more, but it should be fine.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:46 PM   #1867
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What does everyone think of the dirt car so far?
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:54 PM   #1868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
Sorry for the newb questions, coming from AE and TLR stuff over the years. Was looking at spare parts and stuff for diff rebuild and adding up diff balls screw spring etc comes out to over $80 or more for all the parts? the thrust bearing was $30. that seems really high for a diff rebuild or am i missing something.
I'll restrain myself from commenting on the quality and value of X-ray diff parts and simply state that Schumacher uses the same size thrust bearing in their off-road diffs. U3704 and U1954 are suitable replacements. 2.4mm balls are available from many companies. I'd like to find some harder diff rings but I don't think the stock ones hurt performance.

The one thing I'd really like to see is a machined lower shock seal. It's been my experience that a slightly damaged seal will allow air into the shock. Schumacher has nice machined seals and their shocks don't suck in air unless the seals are deformed in a wreck. Kyosho has amazing seals and I've never had one become damaged or suck in air. X-ray has molded delrin seals which are visibly deformed during production and my X-ray shocks suck in air before I can even put it on track.
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:50 AM   #1869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
their diff's are very good break it in and ur good to go I have 3 all smooth like egg's
Thank you
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Old 03-11-2016, 03:51 AM   #1870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayracer1 View Post
Check how much grease it has, as it may need a little more, but it should be fine.
Thanks I will check to see if more is needed
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Old 03-11-2016, 04:07 AM   #1871
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Impatiently waiting for my Dirt car to show up. So I went to a buddies house last night to mess around on the lathe, and made a set of cut gears for running 17.5
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:25 AM   #1872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturn V View Post
I'll restrain myself from commenting on the quality and value of X-ray diff parts and simply state that Schumacher uses the same size thrust bearing in their off-road diffs. U3704 and U1954 are suitable replacements. 2.4mm balls are available from many companies. I'd like to find some harder diff rings but I don't think the stock ones hurt performance.

The one thing I'd really like to see is a machined lower shock seal. It's been my experience that a slightly damaged seal will allow air into the shock. Schumacher has nice machined seals and their shocks don't suck in air unless the seals are deformed in a wreck. Kyosho has amazing seals and I've never had one become damaged or suck in air. X-ray has molded delrin seals which are visibly deformed during production and my X-ray shocks suck in air before I can even put it on track.
I was looking around and found the whole diff with outdrive and all assembled is 71.00. If the diff lasts like i am hoping than i could drop one of those in a couple times a year as outdrives wear out and it would be about the same price as others.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:26 AM   #1873
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gearing for 17.5? i bought a 75 spur to run in it.
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:57 AM   #1874
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I have a question for dirt version which include differential gear or just ball differential my kit already is on the way it might be need to order ball differential for spare parts.
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:09 AM   #1875
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Dirt edition comes with ball diff only.
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