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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 03-09-2016, 09:11 PM   #1846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
The list is in the picture

You don't need:

#325000 ball diff
#323081-M Composite rear tower
#321260-M Composite chassis side guards
#322081-M Composite front tower

Bent
Why do you need 327320 - Rear Arm Pivot Pin? They are same on CE and DE

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Are the shock mounting holes on the composite towers the same as what is on the graphite towers?
Can anyone help with comparing graphite and composite towers please?
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:38 AM   #1847
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Can anyone help with comparing graphite and composite towers please?
In general, stiffer parts are for higher grip surfaces.

graphite = carpet/astro
composite - dirt/clay
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Old 03-10-2016, 04:47 AM   #1848
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Originally Posted by tomdex View Post
Can anyone help with comparing graphite and composite towers please?
The rear shock tower on the DE and CE have different holes for mounting it to the transmission case. You'll defintely need to get the composite one to run the DE case.

The front towers are interchangable though.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:14 AM   #1849
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Ok, if you want to run kyosho springs you should use other retainers... the springs are slightly bigger, I had one push past the xray shock retainer yesterday..
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:28 AM   #1850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Ok, if you want to run kyosho springs you should use other retainers... the springs are slightly bigger, I had one push past the xray shock retainer yesterday..
They fit fine... I on the other hand got hard front 3pk Med 3pk and Med 3pk rears for the associated U will need retainers for them .....they we're 38.00 for 9 set's
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:05 AM   #1851
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ok, so, use the other companies spring retainers.. what about at the shock collar. are there chances of the spring pushing over the shock collar?
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:13 AM   #1852
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Lower only
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:21 AM   #1853
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Lower only
Thank you.. They fit around the lower shock eyelets just fine?
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:31 AM   #1854
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Going to try the dirt car out, was hoping to order spare shock towers with the car can't find any in the US. Where is the best place to find parts in the US? Local shop does not have much xray
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:41 AM   #1855
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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
Going to try the dirt car out, was hoping to order spare shock towers with the car can't find any in the US. Where is the best place to find parts in the US? Local shop does not have much xray
RC America. You have to call them, can not order online.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:45 AM   #1856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking View Post
Lower only
Exactly, I used the medium length B5 retainers
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:48 AM   #1857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrobe2112 View Post
Thank you.. They fit around the lower shock eyelets just fine?
Yes AE makes shot Med and maybe long shock cups to run a longer spring it will not have preload once fitted... if I were U get them all their cheap and good to have n in ur parts box it will allow you to run several brands
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:12 AM   #1858
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Sorry for the newb questions, coming from AE and TLR stuff over the years. Was looking at spare parts and stuff for diff rebuild and adding up diff balls screw spring etc comes out to over $80 or more for all the parts? the thrust bearing was $30. that seems really high for a diff rebuild or am i missing something.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:04 PM   #1859
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advice given to me, i have passed on over the years when dealing with what are termed luxury/exotic RC cars

- buy a second kit, just for parts

the diff, 4 shocks, bearings, body/wing, top shaft, arms, ball cups/studs, etc. etc. will save you alot over time

i have done this over the years with HPI, Yokomo, Kyosho, and more. local hobby shops can't cover all the cars being made these days. some even have a hard time covering AE, Traxxas, Losi, and the fleet of RTR cars they sell.

as for the diff xray sells the complete diff, all carbide balled, ready to install, just follow the break in procedure

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...325000/p477744

same principle as i mention above on kits, it you buy this diff piece by piece, you will exceed $100+ as you did, and still not have the outdrives
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...324960/p477742
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:13 PM   #1860
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Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars View Post
advice given to me, i have passed on over the years when dealing with what are termed luxury/exotic RC cars

- buy a second kit, just for parts
Difficult advice to hear, but spot on. You will save truck loads of money just getting a second kit.
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