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Old 12-26-2016, 07:51 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Xray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
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Last edit by: dgrobe2112
Instruction manuals: (C/O BentKa)

Xray XB2 Carpet Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...ual_v2_low.pdf

Xray XB2 Dirt Edition Instruction Manual
http://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/dow...w.pdf?update=2

BentKa: Carpet Edition 4 gear to 3 gear laydown conversion parts:
  • Gearbox #323014
  • Motorplate #324012
  • 36T idler gear #324236
  • Brace for waterfall #324031


Socket: Bodies Available:

Xray has two OEM bodies, the .75mm and the .50mm light weight:
light weight: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-xb...329701/p492942

OEM .75mm: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-0....329700/p477762

Also, I've fitted the yz2 body, both the light and regular fit fine, just make your own cut lines:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...z2-101/p417674


[i] J Concepts S2 Body [i]


Penguin Racing makes a high grip body that fits the DE and CE:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-Ray-Xb2-Hi...oAAOSw1S9WewHV



Socket: Wheel fitment:

According to some, you'll require different offset rear hexes to use B5M wheels. According to my Hudy setup board, B5M wheels are the same offset. I measured the overall width of the car with XB2 wheels, and then again with B5M wheels, same measurement.

On the front, B5M wheels were 1.5mm wider. Xray offers hexes to reduce width -.75 on each side, or you could spend 3-5 minutes and sand your OEM hexes down .75mm.

edit by dgrobe2112
here are the hubs for losi and AE

for AE Front 365354 -0.75
for Losi rear 365358 +3.00 (4 stripe)
for AE rear 365359 +3.75 (5 stripe)



Socket: Flex and the XB2:

Flex screws are as follows:

Plastic bulkhead between motor and waterfall. Can remove screw in chassis, or remove bulkhead altogether.

Waterfall has 4 screws, can remove the inner two or outer two. IIRC, removing the inner two provides more flex, and thus more bite.

Removing the battery brace. This gives a tremendous amount of flex on the middle of the car, and can sometimes be inconsistent. I do this for outdoor racing on low bite. I like the feel over the 4 gear in 17.5 racing, since the 4 gear will take some snap away off the corner.

Rear C block - has inner and outer screws. I haven't played with this, as it's a crucial pivot point of the car.

Medium arms and towers -> I don't believe the carpet car has the rear medium tower available, however the DE DOES have an optional hard part. I think the hard parts are more consistent, especially when it gets hot (90+ degrees F). However, the medium parts do NOT break unless you're severely talented. They also don't wear out.



Socket: Avid/Schelle Slipper mod:

Credit to WillS, Matt Trimmings, and myself for figuring this out months ago.

Parts you'll need:

B5M V2 3gear compatible top shaft.
TKO Special 5x13x5 bear OR 5x13x6 bearing Either can work. This replaces the spur side bearing on the top shaft.
5mm shims, same shims used in 1/8th scale clutch bells. Look for protek .1mm and .2mm kit.
Avid or Schelle b5m top shaft kit, with spur gears of your choosing. (DE can't handle a 69, the CE can)

Shimming: You'll need to install the bearing in the front portion of the removable piece for the shaft. Make sure the bearing is pushed all the way in. With the TKO bearing, you'll need to shim approximately 1.4mm on the front side of the top shaft. Roughly .3-.5mm with the other bearing. This is a "feel" and tolerance setting. I urge you to watch videos about setting clutch bell play in 1/8th scale to get an idea of what yield you want for end play. Too tight, it'll eat bearings.

Outside of trans case: Use Avid/Schelle top shaft spacer plus .2mm shim to offset slipper from motor plate perfectly. Install slipper as instructed, and use Avid/Schelle spring and XB2 slipper nut.

- NEW - Schelle now sells Xb2 Topshafts. They include a spacer, so no need for shims in gearbox, and comes with the smaller bearing. Both methods work.

Socket: Yokomo Differential or MIP pucks:

Credit to: WillS for figuring out pucks, and as well fitting the Losi 22 diff with the same mods.

Parts needed: Yokomo Bmax2 or YZ2 complete diff OR Mip PUCKS outdrives
Xb2 diff gear
Bmax2 V3 Worlds rear dog bones, or Bmax 2 pucks dog bones
You'll use XB2 axles, and will require no other mods for the axles or dog bones.
You'll need .2mm outdrive/diff shims. Shim approximately .5mm on each side of the diff, behind the bearings. The top portion of the transmission is what "sets" the diff in place, not the bottom half. A little play back and forth is fine, the stock diff has some play from the factory.

dgrobe2112: CE to DE conversion:
along with the parts needed.. you MUST have these following hardware, or it wont work

https://www.teamxray.com/xb2/2016/do...conversion.pdf

(3) XRAY 902340 M3x40 button head screws. these are the screws that mount the motor mount to the tranny
(4) XRAY 903322 M3x22 counter sunk screws. these are for the rear diff case, to mount to the chassis. i think i used some M3x18 and they worked ok.

Socket: Best method for setting up the XB2 ball diff:

The XB2 diff is stellar when setup correctly. The spring is too short and soft, allowing the diff to slip. You'll need to glue the rings to the outdrives with just a drop of CA, then add a 1mm shim between the spring and the outdrive. This preloads the spring and stops the diff from slipping so easily.

OR, you can run the AE diff spring, which is both slightly longer, and stiffer. The overwhelming issue is the stock spring allows the nut to bottom out on the outdrive before the diff is tight enough.

This shim:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-al...a303122/p12070

This diff spring (don't need a shim, then.)

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...thrust_spring/

Functional Aftermarket parts: (Not just bling!)

Servo Horn: (The B5M sized horns are too short to get full throw)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...800-bk/p273496


Socket: Exotek has a full suite of parts, some bling, some not. Here's a list (all fit DE and CE, unless otherwise noted):

Titanium front axles: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-titanium-front-axles-2/

Rear Hanger, HD (Adds 4 grams): http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...75-heavy-duty/

Brass C block, 18 grams added: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-rear...-brass-weight/

Alloy front camber mount: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-fron...er-mount-7075/

Carbon Fiber Chassis: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-carb...m-plate-2-5mm/

Alloy rear hubs:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-allo...ub-set-2-7075/

Alloy servo mounts, allow for use of LP servo:http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...-alloy-1-pair/

Titanium shock mounts: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-xb4-...shock-posts-2/

Slipper Eliminator: http://www.exotekracing.com/xb2-direct-spur-mount/
Xray eliminator is #324100

dgrobe2112: 2016-2017 new 3 gear laydown
Gearbox #323014
Motor plate #324012
36T idler gear #324236
Brace for waterfall #324031

dgrobe2112: Xray Spring Rate Conversion:
front C WHT
368174 2 str 0.65-0.85 3.71-4.85

358184 2 dot 0.65 3.71
368185 3 dot 0.72 4.11
368186 4 dot 0.80 4.57


Rear
368273 2 str 0.35-0.45 2.00-2.57

368284 1 Dot 0.35 2.00
368285 2 Dot 0.40 2.28
368286 3 Dot 0.45 2.57
368287 4 Dot 0.50 2.86

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Old 02-22-2016, 11:08 AM   #1576
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I think that it's pathetic to update the manual for needing loctite. I'm gunna lmao when people are still breaking the rr hanger using loctite. What a big bandaid for a luxury car. The part needs to be beefed up but I guess that's to damn hard to do. -1 Xray
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:09 AM   #1577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
Which screws need tighten for pulling. I have it too. Not bad but a bit
Just take a nice MIP driver and check every single screw that goes into hard plastic. Front, back, top, and bottom. I noticed my motor was lifting a little bit when I held my car and gave it throttle. Tightened everything and that was gone, and ended up with a better driving car. I wouldn't be surprised if many people have this issue and don't realize that with the hard plastics, you need to check and make sure they are actually fully seated. Don't get all ham fisted and strip stuff out, but it's definitely a different feel from, say, TLR plastics which are extremely high quality but not at "hard" as the X-ray hard stuff is.
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:12 AM   #1578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BentKa View Post
Bent
Thanks for putting all the updates Bent! A real service for those of us that like to try the new stuff out.

Maybe this is overkill, but it's tough to find the page you put this stuff on (for example the aluminum ballstud mounts from a few weeks ago - maybe add a "new parts" section to the first page? That would be so helpful and awesome, and appreciated.
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:39 AM   #1579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
Just take a nice MIP driver and check every single screw that goes into hard plastic. Front, back, top, and bottom. I noticed my motor was lifting a little bit when I held my car and gave it throttle. Tightened everything and that was gone, and ended up with a better driving car. I wouldn't be surprised if many people have this issue and don't realize that with the hard plastics, you need to check and make sure they are actually fully seated. Don't get all ham fisted and strip stuff out, but it's definitely a different feel from, say, TLR plastics which are extremely high quality but not at "hard" as the X-ray hard stuff is.
Yeah and I would add that when you put the car together to add a little Ivory(bar type) soap to the screw threads. This acts as a lubricant to the cutting into the plastic. Prevents things from getting too hot, and it's a lot easier to turn.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:20 PM   #1580
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can someone tell me, when using the new 23/29 bulkhead.. its obviously flip for one.. or the other.. if i want 23.. does the 23 face out.. or face into the car?
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:20 PM   #1581
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One of the guys at the track was running his XB2 yesterday and the first thing I noticed on his car was the rear suspension brace screws coming out...

If Xray were to beef up the RR brace then the screw would just rip through the chassis. It's a double edged sword. The easy solution is to be sure the screws don't come out!
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:44 PM   #1582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I think that it's pathetic to update the manual for needing loctite. I'm gunna lmao when people are still breaking the rr hanger using loctite. What a big bandaid for a luxury car. The part needs to be beefed up but I guess that's to damn hard to do. -1 Xray
We get it your unhappy. Perhaps team losi has what your looking for
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:49 PM   #1583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rekim View Post
We get it your unhappy. Perhaps team losi has what your looking for
Negative. Would race a traxxas before that.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:15 PM   #1584
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REMEMBER THE GOOD OLE DAYS..........THEY'RE NEVER COMING BACK SO WE'RE STUCK WITH THE MESS IN FRONT OF US!!!!
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:17 PM   #1585
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Grabs popcorn...puts feet up.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:27 PM   #1586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seth556 View Post
One of the guys at the track was running his XB2 yesterday and the first thing I noticed on his car was the rear suspension brace screws coming out...

If Xray were to beef up the RR brace then the screw would just rip through the chassis. It's a double edged sword. The easy solution is to be sure the screws don't come out!
Totally untrue. Just because the alu holder fails, doesn't necessarily mean that a beefed up one would simply move a catastrophic failure to a different piece.

For example, what if the rear hanger were made out of paper? and it broke because it was too weak? Would you then say that making it stronger would simply move the break to the chassis? Of course not, because it just doesn't work that way. The piece needs to be strong enough to not break during normal use. Making the pieces stronger eventually moves wear or brakes elsewhere... but there is a net-gain to be had here for sure. I'm sure there is a mathmatical or engineering term for this "Strength symbiosis" that I don' t know... that can be reached.

Time will tell what this piece is doing, whether it's defective, or simply a matter of people allowing the screws to loosen (i.e. user error). If it were a systemic issue, I imagine we would be seeing a much greater number of complaints. I'm just not seeing it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:58 PM   #1587
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In the xb2 group on fb somebody is breaking one every weekend.. All with the same wtf seriously just happened comment. Rc America is aware of the issue. The ball is in Xrays quart so we will see what happens, however they feel the fix is loctite apparently.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:03 PM   #1588
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Regardless if the design is defective, or perhaps not robust enough, you should be loc-titing screws that go into alloy and get constantly stressed in different directions on any car. I just had these same screws (rear hanger) come loose on my TRF419 while practicing all day long, and the car was freshly built with all screws checked and tightened in the morning.
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Old 02-22-2016, 05:02 PM   #1589
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maybe you should locktite them lol
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Old 02-22-2016, 05:38 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdoc View Post
maybe you should locktite them lol
You are correct, that was sort of my point.
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