the incubus

iTrader: (17)

That last bit is where you'd be wrong. Just because you are a beginner doesn't mean you shouldn't spend the additional money on the Lite version. In the end it will be worth it because say you went with the regular model and decide you want or need to convert it to the Lite version, it will cost you much more than if you'd just spent the difference for the Lite version from the start.

It's ALWAYS better to have a gun and not need it than to need a gun and not have it. I think the best place to skimp out and get away with it for a good long while is on a radio because many of the RTR radios people don't ever use are actually pretty damn good. They only lack the added bells and whistles that you won't really need until you are vastly more experienced and are ready to begin tinkering with things.

man1ac

I agree to disagree I understand your point.

Anyway, got the B4.2RS and I am looking at usefuld and needed upgrades which imrpove driving stability (beginner, remmeber. Jumping with Buggys isnt one of my strong suits, yet ).

If someone has some good ideas, I would be grateful!
My first ideas are:

RPM Heavy Duty Rod Ends (7$)
Do you think that a aluminium bulkhead (40$ here in germany) is a good idea? And I found a shop which has the big bores as complete set for 70$...

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Personally on the b4 /T4 line up one of the first things did usually involved getting the the front aluminmum hingepin brace. Back in the day with the B3 AE included that, it wasn't some massive thing just a little strip of metal but did the job.

Now, it was more needed on the T4 as the leverage the arms put on the bulkhead we would run through those alot.

If you are looking to make this super durable, the RPM A-arms when I used them were excellent for that and surprisingly stiff in comparison to other stuff they make. I was pretty surprised. If you decide to go that route you may not need the hingepin brace. confirm first.

I also when my daughter would drive I would use the wide RPM front bumper. saved the front end a lot of times. You will have to watch for it digging in if you nose a lot of jumps but in general seems she was jumping more nose up at times it was worthe durability.

Not too much else I can think of, the vehicle was reasonably durable, and other than what I was used to putting on (Lunsford titanium turnbuckles) I couldn't really think of much else.

man1ac

Thanks!

I just ordered the A-Arms and the Small Front-Bumper-Thingy. I think for know this should be enough

Just had the first drive in my works parking lot....damn this guy is fun Love it!

SpongeX

iTrader: (1)

I think the factory team shocks would be one of my first bigger upgrades. They work alot better than the ones that come with the rs vehicles. Even more so if you take it to the track.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

RPM Cups are not very good IMPO.

For the ultimate in cups and studs, just swap them ALL out to TLR/KYOSHO and never look back. They remove most of the slop/play and are the most precise in the industry and among the strongest as well.

Bulkhead not necessary but the aluminum suspension hanger is something you'd want to have. I find the Avid bell cranks to be slightly better than the JConcepts. When you can, buy the shocks and use 30 front/27 rear oils but if it's relatively cold you can use slightly lower viscosities to free the suspension up a little more.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Well you have a B4.2 now what you do to it is up to you! Some good suggestions here but I say run it and upgrade it as you like but keep in mind to get that buggy into PRIME race condition you have some work ahead of you! Personal experience here as I bought one not long after they came out and upgraded it along the way, here is a list of the upgrades my buggy saw over the year and a half I ran it.
1.Factory team carbon battery brace and thumb nuts
2.JConcepts carbon steering rack
3.AE FT milled aluminum motor mount or JConcepts
4.Avid carbon rear camber mounts "C"
5.B44 rear arms
6.AE Carbon front arms
7.JConcepts ball cups
8.AE 3X1.4 shock pistons
9.Avid Triad or Schelle Nova slipper
10.JConcepts aluminum wing mounts
11.Avid motor centering kit
12.MIP aluminum top shaft
13.+8mm chassis and body
14.Aluminum steering bellcranks
15.FT Big bore shocks and aluminum shock caps
16.MIP pucks
17.AE rear ballast
18.Lundsford titanium ball studs
19.AE FT servo mounts

I know some of those parts come standard on the FT model but you have an RS and I'm pretty sure they aren't standard on the RS. Quite a list but when I was done this was one Bad buggy! Then the B5 came out and it wasn't relevant any more in comparison so it was sold.

man1ac

@the incubus: Sorry but what do you mean with Cups? The Rod Ends (I think so?) Can you give me a link for the TLR/Kyosho ones?

@thecman26: Thanks! Thats quite a list!

theoutbackdream

Coming from both, I do love that most tracks (at least around me) have 1/10 tracks, and they are fairly easy to work on and cheap! Whereas 1/8, it's way more durable, but when something breaks, the part itself can be nearly double the cost! Down fall is that my local tracks don't allow 1/8 so I just use mine for bashing, or set up a small track at the baseball field.

man1ac

I am kind of stuck - again ;D

Got the best driving experience yesterday in a parking lot:

My girlfriend joined us later on and she started to drive my B4.2RS (definitely a mistake ) for about an hour. Yesterday evening she told me, that she would like to have her own buggy (yay, best girlfriend ever ) as birthday present!

Since I was kind of drawn to the rc cars by testing a B5 buggy, I was checking out the opportunity of buying one all weekend (got stuck with a B5M and 700$ (damn expensive)).

And now I need you guys: I am at the point on choosing the right path for me (and my girlfriend) (I use € since I am to lazy to calculate other, please multiply by 1,15 to get $):

1) Just buy another B4.2RS for about 250€ It's more than enough for her
+ wont need any additional LiPos
+ No work for me, just some additonal tires

2) I could get a B4.2 FT for around 170€ at eBay, So I can upgrade my own to big bores and some aluminium parts. I could fit the parts I wont need into the other car and have 1 fully equipped B4.2 RS/FT Combo and the other one as B4.2 "light" for my girlfriend
+ we have the nearly the same car, so same spare parts are needed
- lots of work for me
- I'd have to buy a Motor/ESC Combo (really no expercience here!)
=> I could buy some cheap stuff from Hobbyking or get a decent motor/ESC Combo (Reedy Sonic Mach 2 7.5T and Norsam HD ESC for my B4.2RS. (Idea of the decent stuff: If I am getting a B5 or somehting like that in the future I can use this motor/esc Combo!)

3) Go fully insane after 6 weeks into RC Cars and buy a B5 or B5M (not fully decided). At the moment I would go for the B5M (not the Lite since I want to keep the budget and SOME limit).
+ get the one and only buggy for a long time
- most expensive idea with about 650€ for the B5M (I'd like to avoid just spending 650€ at once, I am more the kind of guys who wants to spent 6 times 100€ )


Thanks for reading all the stuff thats driving me crazy
The last thing I should tell you: We are (me and girlfriend) not the competitive kind of drivers, we just want to go out (track, parking lot) and have some fun. Maybe take some club level races with colleagues and friends (thats why we need at least just a bit of competitive stuff, nearly all guys at our track drive AE stuff). I cant tell if I am going to drive more on a competitive level in the future, since our track is closed till early spring.

regards again

Cain

iTrader: (294)

personally as you started with the B4 platform and are not serious about racing, I'd probably look for a used B4.2 factory team edition if you want more of the bling upfront, or, just find a cheap b4 RTR for her / you. Can share parts that way if you find you are breaking stuff often.

If you do have a desire to race and want to be more into it, you may want to just start with a B5 and go from there if you like having something current.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Take my advice and make sure if you plan on racing at some point you have 17.5 motors or you will not have the best experience possible AND you WILL break your cars.

man1ac

Point taken But I think I can downgrade the power by ESC Input and/or by mit DX4C - don't I? So I can make it as fast as needed (as fast as I can handel safely)

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

You can but they will not allow you to race in the stock class and will have to run with Mod guys, WHICH will not be much fun for you.

mes

If I am not mistaken Thunder Tiger Europe has a deal going on with both the B5 and B5M kits for € 399.- As somebody who both still has a B4 and a B5M based truck (SC10 and T5M) and used to have a B5M, I'd say get one of the newer generation cars (even a used one) and don't spend anything on option parts for the B4. The new generation of AE cars is more durable and easier to get screws etc. for in Germany.

Check out the following track locators and take a look if there is a track nearby. I am sure, the people there will get you sorted.

http://www.rccar-online.de/?seite=race_tracks

http://www.rc-strecken.de/

https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...6&source=embed