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Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!

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Old 08-11-2016, 07:12 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Schumacher's new K2 4wd buggy ..!
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Welcome to the Schumacher K2 Wiki!

Please feel free to add tips and tricks as well as any information that you would feel is beneficial for everyone to know.

Introduction and Pictures Introduction and Pictures

ElectronicsSetupElectronicsSetups

Setup SheetsSetup Sheets

EmulsionShocksEmulsion Shocks

Tony Newland Gear Diff BuildTony Newland Gear Diff Build

Help I Keep Breaking Front Arms

With the K2 Schumacher sarted using an adjustable hub design that required
a relief cut in the arms for the steering knuckle to clear. The easiest solution
until a revised arm is to run the old style arms without the relief cut. Run the
hubs in the High position and set your steering end points down so the steering knuckles don't hit.

SCHU3597
SCHU3407 MED Flex

There is a newer batch of the SCHU3407 wishbones which correct the weakness in the previous front arms.

Suggested upgrades/spares
Strongly suggest to buy 10° alloy front alloy pivot blocks-U3556 the A & B front plastic pivot blocks-U4798 will break soon.

Have some shock seats spares, alloy v1-U3611, plastic-U3937, alloy v2 (off-road)-U4890

Have some spare shock shafts available U3668 & U3669
MIP pucks an Excellent option!

Misc

Other wheels that fit apart from the Schumacher wheels
Losi 22-4 wheels will fit on the front the rears will work as well!
AE b4, b5 & b6 will fit on the rear
Be sure to lock tight the track screws and rear strap this is a must!!!

AE (12mm) and KYO fronts will work with .5mm spacer - available through AVID


Don't buy the purple titanium turnbuckles as an upgrade there thread is too small and they wander too much. Lunsford Super-duty titanium turnbuckles fit very well they are 3.5mm threads. Get the 1 3/4", 2 1/8" & 57mm lengths. I did not replace the Centre Track Rod.

** When running the Super Duty turnbuckles with the stock captured ball ends, be sure to check for binding in the front steering and camber links after each run - tumbles and glances off the pipes cause them to flex and slightly twist and can bind up the front suspension ... The fix? - simply take a turnbuckle wrench and twist the link back and then forward to it's original positon .. consider doing this as a maintenance step after each run ..

Suggested Gearing

5.5 - indoor high bite clay 83/20 (+/- 1 tooth for layout and conditions etc)
6.5
7.5
8.5
9.5
10.5
13.5 At SRS Arizona I ran 75/28 buggy was quick! RCM lockout worked great!
17.5 - FDR between 5-6 depending on track. E.g. 35/66 down to 30/69 slipper eliminator in use. Different options within the thread. I use B5M exotek eliminator and file it to fit.

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Old 12-14-2015, 01:20 PM
  #211  
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Default K2

Originally Posted by maizer
Thanks. I have a Body on the way.
Cool you have nice colors and graphics! What is your opinion on small bore shocks setup for 13.5 class! Weight saving would help! Would I be wrong to go with this approach on setup over big bore shocks?
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:00 PM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by maizer
K2 is going to be better than the K1.

I have driven the car on high, mid, and low bite tracks. Hard packed, and loose dusty. I think the car better on all of them. Not to say you will or will not have to make setup changes for your track. I have been to five different tracks all had different dirt/clay. I was able to get the car to work good at every track. K2 jumps better, is more forgiving, is more tunable. I'm very happy with the K2.
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have the forward conversion chassis for my K1. Will it be similar to the K2?. I ask that since the steering is also converted to the K2 style with that conversion kit. (same answer as before? I wasnt sure if that made a bigger difference,etc .)

I am 90% sure I am getting a K2, but felt like I had to ask..
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:09 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by mdl060374
Not to beat a dead horse, but I have the forward conversion chassis for my K1. Will it be similar to the K2?. I ask that since the steering is also converted to the K2 style with that conversion kit. (same answer as before? I wasnt sure if that made a bigger difference,etc .)

I am 90% sure I am getting a K2, but felt like I had to ask..
No, its all to do with which way the motor turns, they have went back to the SX3/KF2 setup as this generates more grip, quicker accelerations, faster cornering speed.
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:54 AM
  #214  
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Hi guys,

Been going over the setup sheet again.

What is high pin? Yes or no. In the rear suspension.

Thanks.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:20 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Hi guys,

Been going over the setup sheet again.

What is high pin? Yes or no. In the rear suspension.

Thanks.
Hi Volition,

I think, that this is that plastic spacer under the RR hanger, so you can run it with, or without it, but i'm not 100% sure!?

May someone can clarify that?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:40 AM
  #216  
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Default Good question

Originally Posted by Volition
Hi guys,

Been going over the setup sheet again.

What is high pin? Yes or no. In the rear suspension.

Thanks.
Not sure it needs to be there! The way I understand it is, unless you're running more than 0 degree's on squat will will always have pin high! That the only thing the illustration show's is that angle.
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:10 AM
  #217  
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Sorry double post
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:12 AM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Hi guys,

Been going over the setup sheet again.

What is high pin? Yes or no. In the rear suspension.

Thanks.

It`s because of this part:http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...KF2/U4734.html



This simple kit raises the inboard hinge pin height which raises the rear roll centre. This stiffens the car in roll which keeps the rear end of the car flatter through corners, and is recommended for high grip surfaces.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:40 AM
  #219  
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Default K2

Originally Posted by CruiseM
It`s because of this part:http://www.racing-cars.com/pp/New_Ca...KF2/U4734.html



This simple kit raises the inboard hinge pin height which raises the rear roll centre. This stiffens the car in roll which keeps the rear end of the car flatter through corners, and is recommended for high grip surfaces.
Got it! It hard sometimes to understand the European terminology at times. Thank you!
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:43 AM
  #220  
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Aha. It's a different part.

Another one. I'm still getting familiar with these kits.

On Orlowski 's setup in the notes section it states 2mm bumpsteer washers. Normally for bumpsteer I've adjusted the outboard end of the steering linkage. Trish from Schumacher mentioned in an email that it's the inboard link. I suppose because the ballstud is downwards that does the same thing in a way. Can you guys confirm that bumpsteer changes are on the upside down link the manual has 2 X 1mm and 1 2mm washer. I assume that for 2mm bumpsteer I just remove the 2 X 1mm. Correct?

Thanks guys.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:10 AM
  #221  
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After picking up the core RC Spring kits, some Pistons I'm going to drill out. Going to try 1.7mm X 3 holes. Try AE 37.5wt green/blue spring at the front and 32.5wt red/green spring in the back. Ahh yes that's after I get my diff sorted. Thanks for the advice on that.

Oh yes, Ordered my cat k2 bling last night on racing-cars.com, exciting!
CF chassis, 7.5° yoke, some ti turnbuckles, 10° pivot and couldn't help myself. My familiarity with ball diffs led me to buy a couple.

I'll keep you guys posted of my testing, I'm outdoors on dirt/clay tracks in Australia that can get a bit bumpy.

I encourage everyone to share their experiences, that way we can all get our buggies smokin' quicker then doing it in isolation. Are you with me?
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:08 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Aha. It's a different part.

Another one. I'm still getting familiar with these kits.

On Orlowski 's setup in the notes section it states 2mm bumpsteer washers. Normally for bumpsteer I've adjusted the outboard end of the steering linkage. Trish from Schumacher mentioned in an email that it's the inboard link. I suppose because the ballstud is downwards that does the same thing in a way. Can you guys confirm that bumpsteer changes are on the upside down link the manual has 2 X 1mm and 1 2mm washer. I assume that for 2mm bumpsteer I just remove the 2 X 1mm. Correct?

Thanks guys.
100% correct matey!
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:15 PM
  #223  
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I am also new to Schumacher and was wondering the same things about "pin high or pin low" and Orlowski's 2mm bump steer. I now understand the first item, but not the bump steer. In the manual, for the steering, there are no spacers for the steering link where it mounts to the steering bell cranks, the 4mm worth of spacers mentioned above are for the camber link. So back to how is one to adjust for 2mm in bump steer? If one were to add it to the outer steering knuckle, like for typical buggies, you'd need an ultra long captive ball end, U4739, to be able to use a 2mm spacer. The kit ball end is too short. I'm not sure how to do this adjustment inboard.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:20 PM
  #224  
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I'm not sure about the spacers on the steering bell cranks being for bump steer but adding shims softens the steering around the centre or neutral.
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Old 12-16-2015, 02:37 PM
  #225  
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Default Bump steer

Originally Posted by HeavyD99
I am also new to Schumacher and was wondering the same things about "pin high or pin low" and Orlowski's 2mm bump steer. I now understand the first item, but not the bump steer. In the manual, for the steering, there are no spacers for the steering link where it mounts to the steering bell cranks, the 4mm worth of spacers mentioned above are for the camber link. So back to how is one to adjust for 2mm in bump steer? If one were to add it to the outer steering knuckle, like for typical buggies, you'd need an ultra long captive ball end, U4739, to be able to use a 2mm spacer. The kit ball end is too short. I'm not sure how to do this adjustment inboard.
Just remove the two 1mm shims! Now as far as the outer adjustment you would have to get the longer unit to add more bump steer.
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