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Old 07-13-2017, 04:34 PM   #436
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I've also heard of some using o-rings underneath the rear mount of the rear top deck... personally been thinking about using individual plastic battery stops from say a 22-4 vs the long carbon piece bolted directly to the chassis. I'll likely try removing the middle screw and then if the change is positive maybe put an o-ring under both remaining screws.
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:54 AM   #437
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Does anyone know if you can run bladders with the bleeder shock caps to run a vented setup?
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:07 PM   #438
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They have them here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/sworkz-...FYu2wAodX8YHQA so I think so. Personally haven't tried it, I've been building the shocks emulsion/no rebound.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:29 AM   #439
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OK I took the car out for a day or racing yesterday, TQ and won but was a very small class including myself and my son mixed in with some other non wheelers but the car was fast. The rear end still wants to step out to the left under power but was manageable. I think 3K in the rear may be a little to light. As far as a measure I missed TQ by .007 in a large 1/8 class running a 31.4 fast lap, this little guy fast lap was 33.1 so quite close an quicker than a lot of the other 1/8 out there.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:36 AM   #440
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Right now I'm running 7k front and 5k rear I'm going to give 10k front and 7k rear oils a try. Feels good with the current setup but in some spot it feels like it's slightly too light.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:03 PM   #441
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Are you a sworkz sponsored driver Jeff?
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:03 PM   #442
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I am running for Sworkz through US rc Imports
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:08 PM   #443
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Ahh ok was hoping you had some good insider info lol..
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Old 07-19-2017, 07:29 AM   #444
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Going with 7 / 150 / 5 to see if that's enough to keep the rear end from stepping, then ill try 7/150/7
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Old Yesterday, 04:07 PM   #445
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I've added some 2mm longer screws to the carbon battery stops along with an o-ring under each screw. Not using the last screw towards the rear of the car on the brace. Ive also added an o-ring under the rear battery bracket screws as well. The car has just been getting better and better. I also dropped a 13.5 in it geared 23/78, with modest end bell timing (25 D4 1s short stack) so we'll see how it goes. I set a 12.58 (that was the lap record a month ago-not set by me) with my xray xb4 with the same motor/esc so I'm anxious to compare!
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Old Yesterday, 05:24 PM   #446
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hmm i can't imagine a 13.5. I was running a 7.5 and got smoked on a straight last year by a 5.5 and went 6.5 , haven't been worse than second since but I can't see driving anything less now.

So the O-ring deal is that just to remove the stiffness of the chassis? Also if you remove the back screws on the upper plate i would think that would slam a lot?
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Old Yesterday, 06:44 PM   #447
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On the small tracks I run on 13.5 can rival mod times if driven perfect! All O-rings mentioned are used between the long battery stop/rear battery tray. All screws for attatching rear upper deck are stock/no o-rings. Rear upper deck does have the first "bridge" removed on both ends. I'll post a picture later.
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