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Old 08-12-2017, 04:40 PM   #1321
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Just joined the club... kit incoming.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:19 AM   #1322
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You won't regret it.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:38 AM   #1323
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Can anyone provide the specific battery clearance available? I'm looking at my options, and I just can't justify the Reedy LP pack for that cost. There are great options that are in the 47mm and 48mm range. I know some have had issues with Gens Ace, but those packs are thicker at 50mm. Would a pack that's 47mm tall avoid even a slight rub? The Fantom LP pack looks like a great option, but if I can get a slightly higher capacity from Promatch and still clear the body, that would be my first preference. Specifically, I can flip their 6500mah on it's side and come in at 47mm tall, with the added benefit of getting the connector of my choice pre-installed. The Fantom LP pack comes with Deans, which surprises me... are those really adequate for 4S applications?

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Old 08-13-2017, 10:16 AM   #1324
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I think you are going to get a little rub on any standard 4s lipo with the stock body. If you want to run say a bittydesigns force body, you will need the fantom or Reedy pack as they are low profile. I just purchased two fantoms and they seem very high quality, I'm just going to switch out the connectors to the xt90.
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:31 AM   #1325
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Can anyone provide the specific battery clearance available? I'm looking at my options, and I just can't justify the Reedy LP pack for that cost. There are great options that are in the 47mm and 48mm range. I know some have had issues with Gens Ace, but those packs are thicker at 50mm. Would a pack that's 47mm tall avoid even a slight rub? The Fantom LP pack looks like a great option, but if I can get a slightly higher capacity from Promatch and still clear the body, that would be my first preference. Specifically, I can flip their 6500mah on it's side and come in at 47mm tall, with the added benefit of getting the connector of my choice pre-installed. The Fantom LP pack comes with Deans, which surprises me... are those really adequate for 4S applications?

Thanks

I run the SMC 4500 low profile battery. This is the latest generation below and it is 37mm height. Runs like 12 to 13 minutes out there easily.
They will put on a variety of connectors for you with the drop down options menu.

True Spec Premium 14.8V 4500mAh 85 Amps/90C
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Old 08-13-2017, 10:46 AM   #1326
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Trinity LP pack is a nice option. 10 mins no problem w/ a few practice laps. It looks like a 2 cell pack. I forget the exact name but it's the trinity low profile pack. 90 bucks I believe it cost me. Balances good, charges quick, and storage charges quick.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:58 PM   #1327
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Hi all, new to the site and to 1/8 scale. I just completed my RC8B3.1E with the help of my 4yo son (he mostly watched). It will be primarily a basher, with speed runs thrown in for more fun. I'm running a Castle Mamba Monster X with the 2200kv motor, Savox waterproof servo, and Futaba 4PLS radio/transmitter set. As far as gearing I've been running it with a 18t pinion and stock everything else. 4s batteries for the most part, maybe a 6s down the road for the speed runs.

Weird thing happened though, i was running it the other day and was only been able to get about 37mph going forward, but for some reason it hit 42mph going in reverse. I changed what settings I could on the TX and it helped until my Castle Link came in. Now I'm wanting to program this to get the most out of this setup. Like I said before, it will be primarily a basher, with the occasional speed run. Does anyone have any tuning advise for the Castle side? It would be greatly appreciated. I'm not looking for world record speeds just something exciting for my son and I to enjoy. Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:26 AM   #1328
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Trinity LP pack is a nice option. 10 mins no problem w/ a few practice laps. It looks like a 2 cell pack. I forget the exact name but it's the trinity low profile pack. 90 bucks I believe it cost me. Balances good, charges quick, and storage charges quick.
Trinity is a bad word and should not be used. Use anything but not that.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:30 AM   #1329
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Trinity is a bad word and should not be used. Use anything but not that.
I appreciate racingnewb's help... but yeah, no Trinity for me. Period.
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Old 08-14-2017, 09:13 PM   #1330
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Quote:
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Trinity is a bad word and should not be used. Use anything but not that.
I agree I bought a fantom lp battery and word is that it is a rebranded trinity, and it's junk went to futaba/os race second qualifier I noticed the case had cracked.
Also if you turn or "high profile" battery's to the side where your wires are sticking out of the left slot of the battery try it helps a lot with the body rubbing
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:56 PM   #1331
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I bought two fantoms so we will see how they hold up. On another note, the rc8b3.1e is the best driving buggy I've ever owned. Built it stock and couldn't be happier. This is coming from a new Mugen mbx7r eco. They both drive very similarly, with the ae having even better steering in my opinion. The ae stays more planted in the rear coming out of turns and getting on the throttle hard. With a few adjustments, I had the Mugen behaving close... but still not as effortless to drive like the 3.1. I then drove my buddy's brand new tekno eb4.4, and while yes it extremely nice, I have found my brand and my car. The tekno responds immmediatley to input from throttle and steering, so much so that you have to dumb down your driving coming from the wider cars, so it wasn't for me. The ae quality is top notch as well. If you are not sure what to get, get the Ae!! You won't regret it!
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:23 AM   #1332
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I built my diffs last night and noticed that the action in all three is really stiff. It's not binding at the gears, but rather where there's friction between the diff outdrive O-ring and the pin (see the very first step in the manual). Built to the letter per instructions.

Is this normal? Will this resolve rather quickly with break-in? Seems I could ditch the diff shims on the outdrives to give a touch more play, but not sure what the consequences would be.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:43 AM   #1333
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Originally Posted by Jason B View Post
I built my diffs last night and noticed that the action in all three is really stiff. It's not binding at the gears, but rather where there's friction between the diff outdrive O-ring and the pin (see the very first step in the manual). Built to the letter per instructions.

Is this normal? Will this resolve rather quickly with break-in? Seems I could ditch the diff shims on the outdrives to give a touch more play, but not sure what the consequences would be.
Don't worry about oring friction, that will wear in as long as you greased them and the groove on the outdrive. Considering you are likely using 10k diff fluid on average that won't matter at all.
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Old 08-23-2017, 02:00 AM   #1334
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any one got a good honest review on this buggy and how it handle and all
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:50 AM   #1335
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It's really durable and handles excellent
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