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Old 09-13-2015, 02:22 PM   #61
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A friend of mine and I just finished building our two 8ight-TE 3.0's. We both encountered the same problem with the rear diff. When shimmed like the manual asks, the ring and pinion are very notchy/grindy. I ended up putting no shims in at all, still is mildly notchy. My friend put 3 shims on the right side with the flared aluminum part to push the ring and pinion away from each other and none in the left to get the feel he liked.

Anyone else find the same thing with their rear diff? The front diff when done was smooth as butter, compared to the rear.
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:15 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 5T-4U2NV View Post
A friend of mine and I just finished building our two 8ight-TE 3.0's. We both encountered the same problem with the rear diff. When shimmed like the manual asks, the ring and pinion are very notchy/grindy. I ended up putting no shims in at all, still is mildly notchy. My friend put 3 shims on the right side with the flared aluminum part to push the ring and pinion away from each other and none in the left to get the feel he liked.

Anyone else find the same thing with their rear diff? The front diff when done was smooth as butter, compared to the rear.
Don't worry to much about how the book says to shim it. Just shim it to where it's a little notchy and run it. Just check it every 30 minutes or so of run time and make sure it's tight. It will be fine. Re shim as necessary.
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Old 09-17-2015, 11:55 AM   #63
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I have no nitro background. Just got a new 8t e 3.0 kit and might build with electric clutch. For the newly released electric clutch, you need to buy a seperate bell clutch. What size bellclutch is recommended? I'm starting out with a 15 tooth pinion.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:01 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by 5T-4U2NV View Post
A friend of mine and I just finished building our two 8ight-TE 3.0's. We both encountered the same problem with the rear diff. When shimmed like the manual asks, the ring and pinion are very notchy/grindy. I ended up putting no shims in at all, still is mildly notchy. My friend put 3 shims on the right side with the flared aluminum part to push the ring and pinion away from each other and none in the left to get the feel he liked.

Anyone else find the same thing with their rear diff? The front diff when done was smooth as butter, compared to the rear.
This is normal and should be. I own all four TLR 8ights. A team driver also confirm this upon my first 8ight (8T 3.0) build. Once the kit breaks in the drivetrain will loosen up. My advice build as the book says.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:06 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by Razorbelly View Post
What would be some good servos to use in this kit and what Tekin truggy motors do people use for some of the biggest tracks?
I'm using Savox 2273 and tekin combo 2000kv. More than enough power when racing that is.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:07 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by rcbuggies View Post
This new clutch is the bomb diggity! It should work on most cars, due to it essentially being an extension of the motor shaft, and it will be able to smooth out the sugared up twitchy feel of the instant electric power.
I bought the new clutch system as well. Does it only work with the Losi clutch bells?
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:08 AM   #67
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I want this kit so bad but its the end of outdoor season so not needed
Mine will be a shelf queen till next year. I had to get it.
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Old 09-25-2015, 05:59 PM   #68
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anyone have run your e-truggy yet ?
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:17 PM   #69
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anyone try electric clutch setup on e-truggy yet ?
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:51 AM   #70
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How many shims on each side of rear diff? chart in book shows 2 of the (0.25mm) shims on left and 2 on right.. but also shows in manual 3 x (0.25mm) and 1 (0.1mm) in the parts list left of the diagram on page 28.. These new multilingual manuals are garbage!! Any one know what they used? Still build tight like the 2.0 rear truggy diffs?
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:43 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by QTIP View Post
How many shims on each side of rear diff? chart in book shows 2 of the (0.25mm) shims on left and 2 on right.. but also shows in manual 3 x (0.25mm) and 1 (0.1mm) in the parts list left of the diagram on page 28.. These new multilingual manuals are garbage!! Any one know what they used? Still build tight like the 2.0 rear truggy diffs?
The std setting is 2x .25 on the left and 2x .25 on the right. But your results may vary. Due to typical molding variances in the manufacturing process, this step needs some individual attention. The important thing here is to shim the diff to have a slight amount of notchy-ness (but with no binding) when building the kit. This will break in rather quickly during your first few runs. Please use the extra .10mm adjustment shims supplied in the tuning parts bag, and add or remove necessary shims to achieve a ring gear mesh you are comfortable with. Reshim after approx. 5 battery packs so the mesh is free with little to no pinion shaft lash for best possible results. This is the best method to ensure a long ring/pinion gear life.

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Old 10-01-2015, 07:40 AM   #72
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Thanks Brian for the clarification. My main issue is with the new TLR manuals..they are terrible with many issues and omisions. My rear diff when shimmed with standard setting as mentioned is binding. I will re-adjust slightly for just a notchy feel to break in. Front is the same with using the 2 (0.10mm) shims as in diagram for front diff.. but not as tight as the rear which is binding a fair bit.

Do you suggest shimming the front diff also or leaving it with no shims as in the past? Manual is also confusing on this as it list no shims in parts layout for front diff but does show 2 (0.10mm) shims in diagram.

should I just shim both front and rear for a slight notchy tight fit? should the rear be shimmed a bit tighter than front?
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:05 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by QTIP View Post
Do you suggest shimming the front diff also or leaving it with no shims as in the past? Manual is also confusing on this as it list no shims in parts layout for front diff but does show 2 (0.10mm) shims in diagram.

should I just shim both front and rear for a slight notchy tight fit? should the rear be shimmed a bit tighter than front?
I would suggest shimming the front to taste, same as the rear. I recommend setting them both up with the slightly notchy feel when new. Perhaps the rear a tad more tight then the front. Then, after some break in (5-10 packs), go back and adjust both so the pinion has a the slightest lash with the ring gear. (like 0.05mm)(thats just enough lash that you can detect it with your fingers holding the outdrives and lightly turning the pinion shaft back and forth).

The idea here is not to load the bearings, but at the same time, have the correct tooth engagement.

The kit setting is a very tough thing to call. With manufacturing variances, one could be perfect, where the next could be tight. The best we can do is include enough shims that the customer can adjust as needed to achieve the proper tension.

I will work on getting the manual instructions more clear on this process in the future.
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Old 10-09-2015, 01:42 AM   #74
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Hi guys finnished building my 3.0e just wanting to know what pinion gear i should go with.

Iv got a hobby wing 150a esc. 2200kv hobbywing motor savox sc 1268 sg steering servo and an nVision 90c 6500mah lipo. All i need is a pinion and im ready to go but not sure what to get.
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:12 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Willyb8te View Post
Hi guys finnished building my 3.0e just wanting to know what pinion gear i should go with.

Iv got a hobby wing 150a esc. 2200kv hobbywing motor savox sc 1268 sg steering servo and an nVision 90c 6500mah lipo. All i need is a pinion and im ready to go but not sure what to get.
I am running a similar setup to yours, except I am running Orion VST2 2100kv motor. I have been running both 14T and 15T depending on the track size. With your 2200kv motor I think you will probably want to have both in your box as well. Id recommend however to start with the 14T.

Enjoy!
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