Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#2791
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Hmm, I made this purchase based on the following compatibility descritpion listed on the sellers web site.
"TKR8184 – Suspension Arms (rear, EB/NB48.4)
These arms have a new design that shifts the shock mounting point out towards the wheel for added high speed stability. These are backwards compatible with the original EB/NB but must be used in conjunction with the new front shock tower (TKR5269). Original rear hubs are NOT compatible. These must be used in conjuction with the newer .3 hubs (TKR5199/TKR5199A).
Note: these arms are not left right compatible."
I have the Rear .3 hubs and the .3 HRC hubs already and will assemble them and see what happens I guess. If this fails I'll have to consider spending some more money
"TKR8184 – Suspension Arms (rear, EB/NB48.4)
These arms have a new design that shifts the shock mounting point out towards the wheel for added high speed stability. These are backwards compatible with the original EB/NB but must be used in conjunction with the new front shock tower (TKR5269). Original rear hubs are NOT compatible. These must be used in conjuction with the newer .3 hubs (TKR5199/TKR5199A).
Note: these arms are not left right compatible."
I have the Rear .3 hubs and the .3 HRC hubs already and will assemble them and see what happens I guess. If this fails I'll have to consider spending some more money
#2792
#2793
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Update on the jconcepts s1 body.
Switched to the outer hole on my tekno servo horn. The s1 body does not have space for it. That's with the updated steering. Too bad because performance wise handling improved. I did cut out that area but now it's split between the center and right side, up front.
Didn't have problems when using the inner hole with the older ackerman plate. Hopefully there will be aftermarket bodies for the .4
Switched to the outer hole on my tekno servo horn. The s1 body does not have space for it. That's with the updated steering. Too bad because performance wise handling improved. I did cut out that area but now it's split between the center and right side, up front.
Didn't have problems when using the inner hole with the older ackerman plate. Hopefully there will be aftermarket bodies for the .4
#2794
Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
#2795
#2796
Tech Master
I Love my eb48.3, I do have the .4, but have yet to run it. So I can't really give an answer. I know the guys that have run it are in love.
#2797
I would say that a beginner to intermediate driver would benefit from the .4 more than a expert to pro driver would. When you make a mistake with the .4 it's just not as bad or as big of a deal as it was with the .3, the car doesn't get tossed around as easily. Since a beginner makes more mistakes than a pro they'll be able to put in more consistent laps with the .4.
#2798
Tech Regular
Why does this always happen? I didn't say switching the horn position changed handling. I said the s1 body fit my previous setup, which had the hole on the inner side of the horn. Reason why I switched to the outside hole is because I got a stronger servo and didn't need to go with the inner one. Please do not misunderstand and think I'm crediting the new servo for handling too. I'm not. Just the body.
#2799
Tech Regular
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.
I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.
If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
#2800
.
It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times.
The wide pivot combined with the hubs and shock location really settles the rear of the car down, much more forgiving.
I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4
There are geometry differences with the new spindles and carriers that we feel gives the steering a more direct feel, and the car steers from the front now. The front is also easier to assemble and work on now, and the bearings really help keep tight tolerances.
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.
I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.
If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
The wide pivot combined with the hubs and shock location really settles the rear of the car down, much more forgiving.
I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4
There are geometry differences with the new spindles and carriers that we feel gives the steering a more direct feel, and the car steers from the front now. The front is also easier to assemble and work on now, and the bearings really help keep tight tolerances.
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.
I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.
If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
#2801
Tech Regular
Are the spindles a direct fit on .3 arms? Or are the .4 arms and hing pin braces required? Do the .4 rear hubs also fit on .3 rear arms? Thinking about universals too; are the new. 4 universal driveshafts compatible with .3 hubs and carriers?
#2803
Should i get a 14tooth pinion gear if im running a 1900kv?
#2804
Joe will the .3 rear hubs fit on the .4 arms to allow the use of cvd's (at least in the rear)?
#2805