22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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12-07-2015, 08:20 PM
#858
I bought the Tekno servo horn TKR 5252 (24T) and I have a HiTec 7950 servo, is this the right horn? It seems awfully hard to push on and off.
12-08-2015, 05:07 PM
#861
i don't own a eb48 but I was always fan of its design
good driving there : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XZVyNaD_gs
i checked the user manual and like that put the new tapered shaft
what about CVD's front ? can they handle full steering like universal joints ?
good driving there : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XZVyNaD_gs
i checked the user manual and like that put the new tapered shaft
what about CVD's front ? can they handle full steering like universal joints ?
12-08-2015, 05:18 PM
#862
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
That's correct. And yes we know people like lots of steering. Our pro drivers tell us this all the time 
. Something to keep in mind though about steering...
The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
. Something to keep in mind though about steering...The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
12-08-2015, 05:29 PM
#863
Tech Regular
12-08-2015, 06:54 PM
#864
12-09-2015, 04:17 PM
#866
Tech Initiate
Nice! I did mine with a sprained thumb so it wasnt much fun, so I took the hex tips out of my drivers and put them into my cordless drill, if you can do so it saves a grip of time mate!
Enjoying it though.
12-09-2015, 06:27 PM
#868
Glad you are enjoying the build. You'll like it even better when you drive it
12-09-2015, 07:47 PM
#869
Tech Regular
It's always fun to have the newest and the best but I seriously doubt that if you had both the .2 and the .3 set up exactly and ran them back-to-back it would buy you any lower track times. My experiences so far running the 1/8th scale buggy against guys who are running chassis going back two and three generations of Mugen, Tekno and a few others is this, the fast guys are very good at chassis setup and are very good consistent drivers. If I was you I would not waste my money, I would buy more tires and batteries and spend more time perfecting your chassis setup and your driving skills.
