Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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#1366
Tech Adept
Can I buy a SL kit and just put 1/8 electronics and 4s in it? Is that good or not? There is a SL kit for a really good price that I found
#1367
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Generally, there are two ways you can go about a longer wearing tire. Since an AKA Impact is a common tire to find being run in a lot of places, I'll use that as the example. Let's say a Soft AKA Impact is the tire of choice, but they only last a race day and some practice laps. There are 2 ways to go about getting longer life. One way is to just go with a harder compound, such as the Medium or the newer extended life compounds (which are a mix of 2 compounds, such as soft and medium). This gives you similar handling, but with just less traction all around. On MOST track surfaces, this will give you a lot longer life span, but on some abrasive surfaces, you'll actually get less due to having more wheel spin and slide.
The second way is to put more rubber on the tire, so that would be to go from an Impact to an Enduro, where the lugs are all larger. This will generally make the car more stable, but have less forward bite. The effect is a longer lasting tire, but without quite the same loss of traction as a harder compound would've had. It probably won't last quite as long as the harder tire compound though.
If you're running eBuggy though, and just want to last longer, look at what the nitro guys run for their 45 minute or hour long mains. That tire choice is probably what you want for practice.
The second way is to put more rubber on the tire, so that would be to go from an Impact to an Enduro, where the lugs are all larger. This will generally make the car more stable, but have less forward bite. The effect is a longer lasting tire, but without quite the same loss of traction as a harder compound would've had. It probably won't last quite as long as the harder tire compound though.
If you're running eBuggy though, and just want to last longer, look at what the nitro guys run for their 45 minute or hour long mains. That tire choice is probably what you want for practice.
#1368
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I've run both the Tekin and SMC motors. The SMC has a little more grunt down low and the Tekin is a little smoother in the middle. Both have about the same top end and are quality motors that you'll be happy with. The SMC runs slightly warmer for some folks.
As for ESCs, I always keep going back to the Tekin RX8 (now the Gen2) after trying others for one reason or another. That being said, SMC should be having an 8th scale ESC out soon™ as well (as mentioned above, they don't yet have an 8th scale ESC). I've been testing it and like it a lot, but it has a couple things being worked on in the firmware to handle random issues in random motors before it is ready for release.
As for ESCs, I always keep going back to the Tekin RX8 (now the Gen2) after trying others for one reason or another. That being said, SMC should be having an 8th scale ESC out soon™ as well (as mentioned above, they don't yet have an 8th scale ESC). I've been testing it and like it a lot, but it has a couple things being worked on in the firmware to handle random issues in random motors before it is ready for release.
#1369
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I don't like adding a brand to the choice that wasn't required by the asker but why not consider the xr8+ from hobbywing ? It's very reliable, good and right in between the trackstar and the tekin esc pricewise.
I'm very pleased with mine coupled with the 1900kv trackstar on my eb48.3 Works very well and fits nicely.
I'm very pleased with mine coupled with the 1900kv trackstar on my eb48.3 Works very well and fits nicely.
#1370
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I don't like adding a brand to the choice that wasn't required by the asker but why not consider the xr8+ from hobbywing ? It's very reliable, good and right in between the trackstar and the tekin esc pricewise.
I'm very pleased with mine coupled with the 1900kv trackstar on my eb48.3 Works very well and fits nicely.
I'm very pleased with mine coupled with the 1900kv trackstar on my eb48.3 Works very well and fits nicely.
#1371
#1372
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
The EB48.3 will be more durable than the SL as well, which you may want for full sized outdoor stuff with big jumps or ruts.
Generally, both cars are great in all situations when tuned right, but the SL shines on tight small technical tracks such as you'll find indoors in most places, and the EB48.3 shines on larger tracks with bigger jumps or more blown out sections as you'll find outdoors in most places.
#1373
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Things to have on hand for the kit build
Im going to start building an eb 48.3 soon, anything I should order that doesnt come in the kit? ive heard the tekno servo horn is necessary. should i also pick up diff oils and shock oils? what are the most common ones for outdoor racing.
any other upgrades I definitely want to get early on?
any other upgrades I definitely want to get early on?
#1376
I like the ibeams on tracks that are loose on the top. I think the impacts will work better when I go to a more grippy track.
#1377
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Im going to start building an eb 48.3 soon, anything I should order that doesnt come in the kit? ive heard the tekno servo horn is necessary. should i also pick up diff oils and shock oils? what are the most common ones for outdoor racing.
any other upgrades I definitely want to get early on?
any other upgrades I definitely want to get early on?
A nice to have is the CF servo brace for some bling.
I personally run stiffer springs, but that and oils are a tuning thing.
The kit comes with the oils you need to build it, which for the diffs should be quite good on most tracks, and isn't bad for the shocks either.
Some folks, myself included, like having the alloy split center diff (comes with alloy motor mount and composite for the rest).
If you're running longer, or on smaller batteries, the lightened wheel hexes are nice, but definitely not required by any means.
#1378
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Servo horn is the only thing you really need.
A nice to have is the CF servo brace for some bling.
I personally run stiffer springs, but that and oils are a tuning thing.
The kit comes with the oils you need to build it, which for the diffs should be quite good on most tracks, and isn't bad for the shocks either.
Some folks, myself included, like having the alloy split center diff (comes with alloy motor mount and composite for the rest).
If you're running longer, or on smaller batteries, the lightened wheel hexes are nice, but definitely not required by any means.
A nice to have is the CF servo brace for some bling.
I personally run stiffer springs, but that and oils are a tuning thing.
The kit comes with the oils you need to build it, which for the diffs should be quite good on most tracks, and isn't bad for the shocks either.
Some folks, myself included, like having the alloy split center diff (comes with alloy motor mount and composite for the rest).
If you're running longer, or on smaller batteries, the lightened wheel hexes are nice, but definitely not required by any means.
awesome, thanks for the suggestions. Im sure I will have more questions throughout the build. thanks all
#1380
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
What kind of track is it? Unless it's got a lot of loose stuff, idk that I would go with ibeams. Impacts should give you more bite than catapults. I've never ran enduros, but depending on the type of track, impacts or enduros may be the ticket. Plus, as it warms up, you may be able to move up to the soft and/or soft long wear compounds without a problem. If the track is rutted out, I would consider gridirons for race day or just mains on race day. For me, it really smoothes out the buggy when bigger pins are catching ruts.