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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-15-2016, 04:57 PM   #1201
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Do you guys think that I would be beat in a straight if I had a 15t pinion on my 2050kv motor while my opponents are using a 18t on a 1900kv motor? The straight is about 150 feet.
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:38 PM   #1202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Matt View Post
Do you guys think that I would be beat in a straight if I had a 15t pinion on my 2050kv motor while my opponents are using a 18t on a 1900kv motor? The straight is about 150 feet.
You'd have a lower theoretical RPM so yes, you could be beaten. (edited)

About the setup question asked before, it's a great overall setup, keep it as is for high grip or Go with 2 anti squat and 2 front and rear Camber for lower grip...
Turns in a dime and it's pretty hard to break the rear loose

Just to be clear, this is the setup I'm talking about:
link
Yes, it's for the NB48.3 but it also works great for the EB48.3

Last edited by alejoal07; 02-15-2016 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Got my math wrong the first time
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:56 PM   #1203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Matt View Post
Do you guys think that I would be beat in a straight if I had a 15t pinion on my 2050kv motor while my opponents are using a 18t on a 1900kv motor? The straight is about 150 feet.
I haven't done the math on this yet, but if I was running a 2050 on the eb, I would run a 17/18. I'm currently running a 19 on eb.

Seems like when I was running the 2050 on my serpent, I only wanted to drop the pinion off 1 tooth to be about the same speed.
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Old 02-15-2016, 07:03 PM   #1204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Matt View Post
Do you guys think that I would be beat in a straight if I had a 15t pinion on my 2050kv motor while my opponents are using a 18t on a 1900kv motor? The straight is about 150 feet.
All else being the same, cars, tranny ratios, pack voltage, spur size, tire diameter, etc. Yes I think you would be beat.

Maths with odd but matching units:
15t x 2050kv < 18t x 1900kv

17t should get you just over as mentioned. Assuming enough traction, a big if with these beasts, you might have more acceleration getting there though.

Overall for the lap the 1900kv might well be quicker unless you can drive the bigger motor really well.
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:35 AM   #1205
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I can't find squat searching, but what sensor cable length is needed for the buggy. I'm running Tekin electronics if it matters.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:04 AM   #1206
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I have used the stock Tekin sensor cable and looped it around the motor. I just recently bought TQ Racing 70mm sensor wire. Fits well and has a little slack.
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:49 PM   #1207
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I have noticed my buggy was nose diving on some small jumps. How can I prevent that? I am using the stock setup.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:07 AM   #1208
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Quote:
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I have noticed my buggy was nose diving on some small jumps. How can I prevent that? I am using the stock setup.
U might hold the throttle for a split second more or right after u get off the face of the jump, tap the throttle. It's kind of hard to say without seeing it.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:59 AM   #1209
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anybody running lower kv motors on this car? Im looking into setting up a new e buggy and really like the layout on this buggy.. reviews seem great.
any needed upgrades or other than springs tuning options, that the car doesnt come with?

Ive been looking into 1700kv motors, with my return to this hobby Ive been focusing more on driving lines than overall speed and am finding this very beneficial.. on practice nights in 2whl, I often pass mod guys that are crashing and can hold them off on the infield most days. and I'm finding that consistency enjoyable.

thoughts on 1700? or would 1900 and esc limiting be a better option?
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:01 PM   #1210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
anybody running lower kv motors on this car? Im looking into setting up a new e buggy and really like the layout on this buggy.. reviews seem great.
any needed upgrades or other than springs tuning options, that the car doesnt come with?

Ive been looking into 1700kv motors, with my return to this hobby Ive been focusing more on driving lines than overall speed and am finding this very beneficial.. on practice nights in 2whl, I often pass mod guys that are crashing and can hold them off on the infield most days. and I'm finding that consistency enjoyable.

thoughts on 1700? or would 1900 and esc limiting be a better option?
Me personally , I wouldn't spend money to do it . IF I had a 1900 I would just turn it down some until I had the feel l was looking for .

If I had a 1700 laying around , I would throw it in and go for it .

If I didn't have either , and I had to buy something , I think I would have to get the 1900 . You can always back it down .
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Old 02-22-2016, 02:26 PM   #1211
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Me personally , I wouldn't spend money to do it . IF I had a 1900 I would just turn it down some until I had the feel l was looking for .

If I had a 1700 laying around , I would throw it in and go for it .

If I didn't have either , and I had to buy something , I think I would have to get the 1900 . You can always back it down .
I have run both the Tekin 1700 and 1900 back to back in the same car. The 1700 was geared to yield close to the same top speed as the 1900. The 1900 was much easier to drive. It gives a more linear feel compared to the 1700.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:06 PM   #1212
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I just want to put up a shout out to Mark Unrath, Tekno Team Manager. I raced at Motorama this last weekend and struggled to find a setup for my 48.3. Mark took time to take a look at my car and give me some recommendations. I took them and my car got a whole lot better, the only part wrong after that was the driver behind the trigger. Thanks again Mark! Guys like him make this hobby so much more enjoyable!
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:12 PM   #1213
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Mark is a local guy at the track I run at , and he has been a great help here as well.
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:20 PM   #1214
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
I have run both the Tekin 1700 and 1900 back to back in the same car. The 1700 was geared to yield close to the same top speed as the 1900. The 1900 was much easier to drive. It gives a more linear feel compared to the 1700.
thank you both, I would assume from popularity the 1900 might keep a slightly better resell value. so I think that is what Ill do.
thanks again
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:40 PM   #1215
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Does anyone know the lowest pinion tooth compatible with the stock spur gear? I'm just asking to be prepared in the future to grab the lowest pinion tooth available to make sure the 2650kv motor I have for this buggy will not run too hot. Thanks
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