22LikesTekno RC EB48.3 Thread
03-13-2017, 12:03 AM - Wikipost
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12-09-2015, 10:51 PM
#871
I posted this in the electronics section and I'm not getting much feedback.
I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.
I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.
I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)
Here is my setup
Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion
Any help would be appreciated
I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.
I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.
I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)
Here is my setup
Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion
Any help would be appreciated
12-09-2015, 11:31 PM
#872
Tech Regular
The neutral width has nothing to do with getting your motor to produce torque. It is used to adjust when throttle\brake engages past neutral on your throttle trigger. Playing with this and making the number too small can mess up engaging brake and even mess with the initial positive throttle engagement. I do not have my buggy or Hot Wire in front of me but I believe for my M12S I settled on a setting of 9. At this setting my brake and reverse engages cleanly and the on throttle engagement was clean with out any odd hesitation. I had reduced the number to like 5 and reverse would usually not engage and had an odd hesitation just past neutral going into forward.
This setting does exactly what it sounds like, reduces the max amount of amps allowed to be put through the ESC. For most situations less is more, sounds odd but reducing power output can make the buggy easier to drive and be consistent and with your setup you should not be lacking any power. I have my current limiter set to 80 on my 2S setup and I am not lacking any grunt from a dead stop or out of the corners. On 4S you should be pulling pretty damn hard from a dead stop right to top speed.
Never used Spektrum equipment but I am guessing this is just a setting to set how many packets of information is being sent and received in a given time frame. This should have no effect on acceleration.
I don't run my buggy 4S, it is used on a small indoor clay track and is limited to 2S but what I have seen from others posting here, you should be using a pinion closer to 18 tooth with your setup and motor KV. I am sure Justpoet or some others will give you more specific advice so hold tight, they have a ton of experience on this chassis running 4S and I bet a couple even use Spektrum.
One other thing to test is your drive train being smooth and free of any odd friction. Remove the wheels and the pinion, place the car on a stand and test how smoothly the entire drive train rotates. Mine is butter smooth, as smooth as can be expected from the high drag rate of a 4 wheel drive buggy with three silicone filled diffs. Any odd friction will be pretty apparent.
Last edited by Fasttrak; 12-09-2015 at 11:37 PM. Reason: One other thought:
12-09-2015, 11:37 PM
#873
The neutral width has nothing to do with getting your motor to produce torque. It is used to adjust when throttle\brake engages past neutral on your throttle trigger. Playing with this and making the number too small can mess up engaging brake and even mess with the initial positive throttle engagement. I do not have my buggy or Hot Wire in front of me but I believe for my M12S I settled on a setting of 9. At this setting my brake and reverse engages cleanly and the on throttle engagement was clean with out any odd hesitation. I had reduced the number to like 5 and reverse would usually not engage and had an odd hesitation just past neutral going into forward.
This setting does exactly what it sounds like, reduces the max amount of amps allowed to be put through the ESC. For most situations less is more, sounds odd but reducing power output can make the buggy easier to drive and be consistent and with your setup you should not be lacking any power. I have my current limiter set to 80 on my 2S setup and I am not lacking any grunt from a dead stop or out of the corners. On 4S you should be pulling pretty damn hard from a dead stop right to top speed.
Never used Spektrum equipment but I am guessing this is just a setting to set how many packets of information is being sent and received in a given time frame. This should have no effect on acceleration.
I don't run my buggy 4S, it is used on a small indoor clay track and is limited to 2S but what I have seen from others posting here, you should be using a pinion closer to 18 tooth with your setup and motor KV. I am sure Justpoet or some others will give you more specific advice so hold tight, they have a ton of experience on this chassis running 4S and I bet a couple even use Spektrum.
This setting does exactly what it sounds like, reduces the max amount of amps allowed to be put through the ESC. For most situations less is more, sounds odd but reducing power output can make the buggy easier to drive and be consistent and with your setup you should not be lacking any power. I have my current limiter set to 80 on my 2S setup and I am not lacking any grunt from a dead stop or out of the corners. On 4S you should be pulling pretty damn hard from a dead stop right to top speed.
Never used Spektrum equipment but I am guessing this is just a setting to set how many packets of information is being sent and received in a given time frame. This should have no effect on acceleration.
I don't run my buggy 4S, it is used on a small indoor clay track and is limited to 2S but what I have seen from others posting here, you should be using a pinion closer to 18 tooth with your setup and motor KV. I am sure Justpoet or some others will give you more specific advice so hold tight, they have a ton of experience on this chassis running 4S and I bet a couple even use Spektrum.
I forgot to add that I can decrease the throttle expo to -20 and it has more "punch" off the line, but I would rather not do it like that. It does sound like I need a bigger pinion.
I knew what the current limiter was I just mentioned it so I could help anyone diagnose my setting dilemma. I will change it back to 80 or so before I drive it on the track.
12-10-2015, 03:43 AM
#874
Tech Initiate
12-10-2015, 06:00 AM
#875
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
It's always fun to have the newest and the best but I seriously doubt that if you had both the .2 and the .3 set up exactly and ran them back-to-back it would buy you any lower track times. My experiences so far running the 1/8th scale buggy against guys who are running chassis going back two and three generations of Mugen, Tekno and a few others is this, the fast guys are very good at chassis setup and are very good consistent drivers. If I was you I would not waste my money, I would buy more tires and batteries and spend more time perfecting your chassis setup and your driving skills.
At the end of the day, it's a personal choice of how happy you are, what financial situation you're in, and if it's logical to upgrade or sell and buy new.
12-10-2015, 10:27 AM
#876
That's awesome information. I originally wanted an 18T pinion but the track manager said most people run a 16T. I will try it at the track tomorrow and see how it does. I can always buy an 17 or 18 and try it there.
I forgot to add that I can decrease the throttle expo to -20 and it has more "punch" off the line, but I would rather not do it like that. It does sound like I need a bigger pinion.
I knew what the current limiter was I just mentioned it so I could help anyone diagnose my setting dilemma. I will change it back to 80 or so before I drive it on the track.
I forgot to add that I can decrease the throttle expo to -20 and it has more "punch" off the line, but I would rather not do it like that. It does sound like I need a bigger pinion.
I knew what the current limiter was I just mentioned it so I could help anyone diagnose my setting dilemma. I will change it back to 80 or so before I drive it on the track.
If I were helping you at the track ,
we would reset the model on your radio.
get a 18 or 19 pinion
reset the rx8
re bind the rx8
set the Current limiter to 50%
and run the car. It should rip with those settings .... I think you may have gotten a bit lost in your changes and should start over tbh.
12-10-2015, 11:46 AM
#877
I posted this in the electronics section and I'm not getting much feedback.
I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.
I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.
I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)
Here is my setup
Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion
Any help would be appreciated
I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.
I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.
I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)
Here is my setup
Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion
Any help would be appreciated
12-10-2015, 03:23 PM
#878
Ok guys, I'll be honest with you on this deal.......I'm a dumbass.
When I was playing with the controller I inadvertently switched on the traction control. As soon as I turned it off, the car worked as usual.
Thanks for everyone's help. I learned some valuable info except none of it helped my dumbass. lol
When I was playing with the controller I inadvertently switched on the traction control. As soon as I turned it off, the car worked as usual.
Thanks for everyone's help. I learned some valuable info except none of it helped my dumbass. lol
12-10-2015, 04:10 PM
#879
ha, thats funny, sounds like it is something I would do!
Glad to know the TC works. I never felt much of a difference with that feature on my DX3R Pro.
Glad to know the TC works. I never felt much of a difference with that feature on my DX3R Pro.
12-10-2015, 05:45 PM
#880
It's always fun to have the newest and the best but I seriously doubt that if you had both the .2 and the .3 set up exactly and ran them back-to-back it would buy you any lower track times. My experiences so far running the 1/8th scale buggy against guys who are running chassis going back two and three generations of Mugen, Tekno and a few others is this, the fast guys are very good at chassis setup and are very good consistent drivers. If I was you I would not waste my money, I would buy more tires and batteries and spend more time perfecting your chassis setup and your driving skills.
12-10-2015, 07:06 PM
#881
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
For the original EB48 to the EB48.2 I would agree with you. However the EB48.3 is quite drastically different for suspension geometry and is FAR more capable in almost all situations. I can push it harder while staying more stable and cut significant amounts off of my lap times with the EB48.3 compared to the older EB48.2, and I can also land things that I couldn't do safely with the old vehicle as well.
12-11-2015, 01:15 AM
#884
are you sure that you will have so much droop ? try to put a shock to check the max droop you can actually get
If it still rub, cut some plastic out ! I did it on my mugen mbx7r eco to have maximum steering
If it still rub, cut some plastic out ! I did it on my mugen mbx7r eco to have maximum steering