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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-13-2015, 05:09 PM   #661
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Originally Posted by shark2288 View Post
Does the nitro buggy and e buggy drive the same or does it feel like your driving two totally different cars.
They can't be exactly the same, but they are very close. Nitro will of course change a bit as the fuel tank is full or empty, but they are both fairly well balanced and use the same suspension so the handling won't be foreign at all.
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Old 11-13-2015, 07:34 PM   #662
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You have something off on your setup. Either your end points in the radio are limiting the servo throw or you have a mechanical setup problem. In my 48.3 with an MKS servo, I can move way past the stops if they were not installed. I had to use end point adjustment to reduce the throw both sides of center.
Fasttrak
I am not even using the radio, just turning the wheels manually. The travel is actually being stopped by the opposite spindle hitting the front of the spindle carrier. The spindle with the stop screw never touches.
There is something I'm just not seeing. I checked all the suggestions that justpoet made.
Maybe it is time to disassemble and reassemble although I can't see how it could be assembled wrong.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:02 PM   #663
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Something is not right that's for sure, you disconnected the servo arm and tried it?
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:13 PM   #664
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Fasttrak
I am not even using the radio, just turning the wheels manually. The travel is actually being stopped by the opposite spindle hitting the front of the spindle carrier. The spindle with the stop screw never touches.
There is something I'm just not seeing. I checked all the suggestions that justpoet made.
Maybe it is time to disassemble and reassemble although I can't see how it could be assembled wrong.


Something is not right with your setup, take a picture and post it up, might be easier for us to diagnose what is going on. Only problem I have seen in the design, a very minor one, is the outboard steering turnbuckle screw can hit the a-arm at extreme droop settings. This is a minor gripe and not something that would reduce steering throw. Sitting at ride height you should have full sweep steering with no obstructions.


EDIT:

Before you completely disassemble the unit, disconnect the two outboard steering turnbuckles and see that each hub and the steering rack can make a complete sweep left to right. This might show you where the trouble is located and help you solve your problem.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:23 PM   #665
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After trying what Fasttrak said (assuming you haven't found the problem) look at the screws going through the ackermann plate holding the steering linkage on. If you omitted any bumpsteer washers or used the wrong ball end the screw might be hitting the steering top plate.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:29 PM   #666
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I opened the manual to see what you might be facing and the parts to see what could be hitting what.

The two parts that make up the steering set are the C carrier, part#TKR5194, and part #TKR5193, the hub (names are probably wrong but you get the idea). You are saying the front of the hub is hitting the carrier before the stops make contact on the opposite side? Do you have the steering setup with zero or half degree negative front toe?
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:05 PM   #667
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That's exactly it Fasttrak. The front of the hub is hitting the carrier before the stop screw touches on the opposite side.
I had a problem with the steering turnbuckle interference too. I ran into Ryan Lutz and he had the cap screw that holds the turnbuckle upside down. That is with the lock nut on top of the turnbuckle so the end OD the cap screw that protrudes through the lock nut won't hit the suspension arm. Really great to have him help out but he is off racing this weekend.
I did take the steering turnbuckle loose and the hubs turn freely.
I am setup with zero toe.
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:45 PM   #668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjl1 View Post
That's exactly it Fasttrak. The front of the hub is hitting the carrier before the stop screw touches on the opposite side.
I had a problem with the steering turnbuckle interference too. I ran into Ryan Lutz and he had the cap screw that holds the turnbuckle upside down. That is with the lock nut on top of the turnbuckle so the end OD the cap screw that protrudes through the lock nut won't hit the suspension arm. Really great to have him help out but he is off racing this weekend.
I did take the steering turnbuckle loose and the hubs turn freely.
I am setup with zero toe.
Do you by chance have the c-carrier reversed, left for right and vice verse?

I just grabbed my buggy to look it over and with .5 degree of toe out I have quite a gap between the hub and the carrier once the opposite hub is hitting the steering stops. You really need to take a snap shot so I can see what is different with your setup, a picture is really worth 1,000 words. Get a good shot of the hub and carrier with the wheel removed, toss it up on a hosting site and post the link here.
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:54 PM   #669
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I'll upload a pic tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:59 PM   #670
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I haven't driven both back to back, but I have tried a nitro, and I have to say. The throttle and how you drive a nitro is different. I could definitely get used to it.

But where people seem to like Joe's NB.3 setup for both, I can only imagine they would handle the same.
The power delivery is obviously very different but in general the way the car turns and jumps and goes thru the bumps they feel close.
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:08 AM   #671
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Quote:
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The power delivery is obviously very different but in general the way the car turns and jumps and goes thru the bumps they feel close.
Good to know. I am keen on both.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:03 AM   #672
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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-stopscrew.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Do you by chance have the c-carrier reversed, left for right and vice verse?

I just grabbed my buggy to look it over and with .5 degree of toe out I have quite a gap between the hub and the carrier once the opposite hub is hitting the steering stops. You really need to take a snap shot so I can see what is different with your setup, a picture is really worth 1,000 words. Get a good shot of the hub and carrier with the wheel removed, toss it up on a hosting site and post the link here.
Fasttrak

Here is a picture of the stop screw when fully turned.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:11 AM   #673
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Do you by chance have the c-carrier reversed, left for right and vice verse?

I just grabbed my buggy to look it over and with .5 degree of toe out I have quite a gap between the hub and the carrier once the opposite hub is hitting the steering stops. You really need to take a snap shot so I can see what is different with your setup, a picture is really worth 1,000 words. Get a good shot of the hub and carrier with the wheel removed, toss it up on a hosting site and post the link here.
I had problems uploading the picture of the other side. Here it is.
Attached Thumbnails
Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread-spindle.jpg  
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:35 AM   #674
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I had problems uploading the picture of the other side. Here it is.

Jumped to a conclusion that was not it after looking at my own buggy.

Are all the parts stock items that came in the kit?
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:04 AM   #675
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Yes, all Tekno parts that I used to upgrade my .2.
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