RC Geezer

iTrader: (10)

Try it like it is

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Don't like it way it is too twitching and tail happy

Fasttrak

I am guessing your setup is off for the track you are running on, I too had a happy tail this last weekend and will resolve that by reducing the 6K rear diff for some 3K silicone. The front end needs to go down from 7K to maybe 5K to get the front end to turn in and hold a line better on power, where I was losing a ton of time to the other two guys wheeling the 48.2's. I also need to change the shock package and roll bars slightly as it was not transitioning quick enough to load up the outside wheels in the quick infield of my home track. The reality is, on the fastest parts of the track the 48.2's gave up nothing to the two 48.3's that were out there this last weekend.


I burned through a ton of packs this past weekend and two of the buggies I was chasing most of the time were two 48.2 buggies. The difference was not any new parts my .3 had it was the fact those two guys spent the last year wheeling their buggies and getting them properly setup for their driving styles. Certain parts of the track I had a slight advantage, the rest of the track they would let me setup for the corner and dive underneath, outside of full on blocking I could do nothing to stop them. If you already have the buggy why not get it setup to the point you can't get any faster with it and then start looking for upgrades, that 48.2 is still one kick ass chassis and nothing to scoff at. Use the money to buy more lipo's and tires.


The funny thing is, the guy that was the fastest 1/8th scale buggy during the entire Sunday practice day was running all Hobby King electronics in a 48.2 and was putting the smack down on the rest of us with buggies that were newer and with more expensive electronics, you have to love this hobby


I do have to say I am absolutely in love with running 1/8th scale E-Buggy, there is just something about it that seriously appeals to me. They are big, kind of loud and are an absolute blast to get out there and tear the track up. Weekend practice sessions has a ton of different vehicles with a wide array of skill sets on the track at the same time. For some of the veterans it drives them nuts and for me, I love it, forces you to use periphery vision, something I have been poor at, to see ahead on the track and make quick decisions and react. I find it a very good way to get smooth and fast while working through traffic on a fairly small and tight track.

I found myself weaving in and out of traffic to avoid the crashes, moving in and out on the rhythm section to avoid the pile ups made me a much better driver by the end of the weekend. If I can get the setup better I might actually be able to wheel this sucker around the track in a time that is actually respectable.

coombes

iTrader: (6)

Well I try 7/7/4 diff oil 45f shock oil 35r shock oil and car is stock standard in set up wise that's why I thought I upgrade to, 3 might be better

Fasttrak

All things being equal upgrading to the .3 isn't going to solve a setup issue.

Maybe these will you get the back-end of your buggy tracking better.
1) Check you tire selection and see if a change in the rear will fix your loose rear end.
2) Lower your rear spring rate to gain more rear traction.
3) Lower the ride height a mm or two to gain a more planted back end. The jumps will determine if this is a feasible option.
4) Check what the rear anti-squat is set to and drop it a degree or two to get the back end to track better on and off power. Not familiar to the .2 but figure it has adjustments there too like the .3.
5) Move the rear shock uppers one more inward to gain lateral grip.
6) Move the rear shock lowers one more out bound if available.
7) Roll bars, stiffen the front or soften the rear, you'll get more rear bite but give up some steering.
8) Roll-centers\Camber links, tons of setup options here that will fine tune on and off power weight transfer which can add or subtract traction based on your driving style and track layout. Too much for me to go over but plenty of information out there.

Do realize, each of these settings gives to one area while reducing from another, it is always a sliding scale when it comes to chassis setup.

Try this website-

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

The thing is, if you can't get the .2 planted and driving well, you'll most likely be chasing the same demons if you upgrade to the .3.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

Have you tried looking at the Tekno site for driver setups that might have some of the track conditions you run in... I ran Bornhorst's McColloughs setup and worked well at many tracks and felt planted.

Also don't make a lot of changes at once, cause then you wont know what really fixed it, of helped it or made it worse... make a couple small changes and run some laps, determine if that helped or not and mark down the changes as you go.

jwill05

iTrader: (6)

How does the stock setup do on a smooth medium traction clay track? My .3 came in the mail yesterday and I'm curious if everyone is staying with the kit set up or moving to something else.

Tbone17

iTrader: (10)

Hope it's ok to post this here, I also posted in the wanted section.

I picked up a .2 and am looking for a few spare parts to keep on hand. Seems a bunch of people have upgraded from .2 to .3 and maybe have left over .2 parts they'd like to sell. Pm me if you do.

Thanks

blackshark3

So happened to bend a front dogbone on my 48.3. Taking this opportunity to try the Kyosho TKI3 universals as replacement (also would get the Kyosho hex too). Can someone tell me the size of the inner bearing in the steering block? Thanks

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Same as the outer bearing. Don't have my manual with me so can't give an exact size. Just make sure you use the kyosho hexes and pins or drill out the universal to accept the larger tekno pin. You'll also need a couple of shims to take out any end play you have.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

Were you able to enlarge those holes fairly easily with just a standard bit and hand drill? I believe you mentioned that the Kyosho uses 2.5mm pins, whereas the Tekno requires 3mm.

Also, do the Kyosho drive shafts come with the set screw to hold the drive pin in place? If not, do you know what size Kyosho uses in there. Or is it the same as Tekno by chance?

Bearing size is an 8x16x5, by the way.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Set screw is same size as tekno.

I used a hand drill and a cobalt bit. I used 1/8" The driveshafts are super hard so a good bit and some oil is the way to go. Use a variable speed drill and go with slow rpm. The bit likes to grab when it breaks thru so be prepared or you'll break the bit. I did mine in about 30 minutes for 8 driveshafts.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

How much testing have you done with the Kyosho universals? Enough to feel a substantial difference one way or the other?

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I haven't done any testing yet on this car. I just built it and finally got the engine broken in. But after feeling the difference on a HB VE8 and MBX7 with unversals and cvds, I like the way the universals felt on those cars on rough tracks. When we go indoors during the winter I will probably go back to cvds. I feel that they work better on smoother tracks. First race is next weekend on a large outdoor track that tends to get pretty rough.

Plus I have never had a universal fail on any car. I feel like unis are a more reliable choice and less maintenance.

vwduud

iTrader: (48)

For the Tekno:

These at 91mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...oif482/p229204

Or these at 93mm:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ifw425/p233893