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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-08-2017, 09:48 AM
  #2896  
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Originally Posted by kms7852
I'm experiencing some slop issues on my EB48.3.

The EB48.4 came up with the fix on this issue but I still have plenty of EB48.3 spare parts that I do not want to upgrade yet.

Problem is in the steering spindle TKR5194.
The bushings (TKR5054A) that goes on top and bottom gets worn over time.
In the spindle (TKR5194) bushing hole where the M4x14mm screw (TKR1445) goes in gets widened and gets worn out to a bigger diameter hole.

After one month, I got an enormous slop on that hole because the bushing did not sit snug to the spindle.

In EB48.4 there is a bearing that goes in instead of bushings which reduce this wear problem.

I have been looking for a bigger bushing. The stock bushing (TKR5054A) is 4mm - Inner Diameter, 6mm - Outer Diameter and 6mm - height.

However with a widened hole, now I need 4mm - inner diameter, 7mm - outer diameter and 6mm height bushings.

If anyone's experiencing this issue and found a solution, please share with me.

Thanks,
New spindle
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:16 PM
  #2897  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
New spindle
Yeah....

I try to keep using the old worn out spindles with this 7mm bushing to save couple $$ but I notice that it's more economical to just buy new spindles....
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:27 PM
  #2898  
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Originally Posted by kms7852
Yeah....

I try to keep using the old worn out spindles with this 7mm bushing to save couple $$ but I notice that it's more economical to just buy new spindles....
Yup, Don't forget Tekno's 50% warranty of broken parts. not sure if worn parts fall into that category or not though.
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Old 05-08-2017, 03:55 PM
  #2899  
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Yesterday I was replacing some bearings on my center diff and noticed the wear that was happening on my center rear drive shaft. The pins were flattening on one side (the side that has the most contact with outdrive when moving forward). I haven't really looked into it but it made sense at the moment to just flip the shaft around so that the rounder sides would be engaged again while driving.

Has or does anyone else do this? Could it possibly lengthen the life of a drive shaft?

I figured its not going to hurt for at least until a new one arrive.
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:45 PM
  #2900  
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Yesterday I was replacing some bearings on my center diff and noticed the wear that was happening on my center rear drive shaft. The pins were flattening on one side (the side that has the most contact with outdrive when moving forward). I haven't really looked into it but it made sense at the moment to just flip the shaft around so that the rounder sides would be engaged again while driving.

Has or does anyone else do this? Could it possibly lengthen the life of a drive shaft?

I figured its not going to hurt for at least until a new one arrive.
I never experienced that... The pins are still going strong for about four months now... The main drive shaft, however, does get bent over time though.
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Old 05-10-2017, 10:31 PM
  #2901  
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Yesterday I was replacing some bearings on my center diff and noticed the wear that was happening on my center rear drive shaft. The pins were flattening on one side (the side that has the most contact with outdrive when moving forward). I haven't really looked into it but it made sense at the moment to just flip the shaft around so that the rounder sides would be engaged again while driving.

Has or does anyone else do this? Could it possibly lengthen the life of a drive shaft?

I figured its not going to hurt for at least until a new one arrive.
You're ok to do that until one arrives, it'll be perfectly fine. Check the outdrive and the coupler for worn spots as well. If they have them, then the new one would fairly quickly wear too.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:18 PM
  #2902  
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I just upgraded my rx8 gen2 to v258. I can't enable esc temp in the data log - it's grayed out. What do I need to do to enable the esc temp?
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Old 05-11-2017, 04:08 AM
  #2903  
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it might be best to ask this question in this thread-
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...sc-thread.html
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:01 AM
  #2904  
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Originally Posted by Tbuggy
Yesterday I was replacing some bearings on my center diff and noticed the wear that was happening on my center rear drive shaft. The pins were flattening on one side (the side that has the most contact with outdrive when moving forward). I haven't really looked into it but it made sense at the moment to just flip the shaft around so that the rounder sides would be engaged again while driving.

Has or does anyone else do this? Could it possibly lengthen the life of a drive shaft?

I figured its not going to hurt for at least until a new one arrive.
Yup, that will do fine, when the pins snap, I like to use my pin replacement tool to swap them out:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...gb0541/p221425

Although it hasn't happened to me, there's a guy at our track who recently broke the tip on his tool and needed to replace it:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...b0541d/p233108

If you find that you really have to crank down on the tool, then I would use a micro torch to heat the pin to make it easier to pop out, also wear gloves and safety goggles just in case something snaps and shards of metal starts flying. I've replaced dozens of pins and haven't had anything snap on me yet, but I've saved hundreds already by replacing pins instead of entire shafts

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 05-11-2017, 07:12 AM
  #2905  
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Originally Posted by billdelong
Yup, that will do fine, when the pins snap, I like to use my pin replacement tool to swap them out:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...gb0541/p221425

Although it hasn't happened to me, there's a guy at our track who recently broke the tip on his tool and needed to replace it:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-s...b0541d/p233108

If you find that you really have to crank down on the tool, then I would use a micro torch to heat the pin to make it easier to pop out, also wear gloves and safety goggles just in case something snaps and shards of metal starts flying. I've replaced dozens of pins and haven't had anything snap on me yet, but I've saved hundreds already by replacing pins instead of entire shafts

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
I am going to get one of those tools!
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:17 AM
  #2906  
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Can anyone tell me why the springs of choice on the eb48.3 are pink front/red rear. And on the eb48.4 setups the springs of choice seam to be black front/orange rear? What about the eb48.4 is making the pros go lighter in springs? I ask in this thread because I have a .3 and I'm wondering if I should do .4 shock setups.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:21 AM
  #2907  
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Originally Posted by Reubster24
Can anyone tell me why the springs of choice on the eb48.3 are pink front/red rear. And on the eb48.4 setups the springs of choice seam to be black front/orange rear? What about the eb48.4 is making the pros go lighter in springs? I ask in this thread because I have a .3 and I'm wondering if I should do .4 shock setups.
Different springs. The .3 uses the traditional .2\SCT springs, where as the .4 uses the newer LF springs.

I had converted to the LF springs on my .3 prior to the .4 being announced. After testing combinations, I was happy with the fact that the springs I settled on for my .3, were the same springs the .4 came with box stock.

What I and most others found, was that whatever color you liked on the .3, when switching to the LF springs, you usually ended up one color lighter on the chart. I grabbed one color lighter, same color, and 1 color darker for testing purposes.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:26 AM
  #2908  
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Originally Posted by ezlight
Different springs. The .3 uses the traditional .2\SCT springs, where as the .4 uses the newer LF springs.

I had converted to the LF springs on my .3 prior to the .4 being announced. After testing combinations, I was happy with the fact that the springs I settled on for my .3, were the same springs the .4 came with box stock.

What I and most others found, was that whatever color you liked on the .3, when switching to the LF springs, you usually ended up one color lighter on the chart. I grabbed one color lighter, same color, and 1 color darker for testing purposes.
Ok makes sense. Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:33 AM
  #2909  
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I run the LF grey springs in front and was running the LF oranges but now running LF yellow springs in back. I have a pretty bumpy/loose track with a couple decent sized jumps.

They seem to do well, the back end can still get a little bouncy at times on the big ruts.
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:09 AM
  #2910  
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Trying to get back into racing again and Just got a .3 buggy. What are the .4 upgrades for this thing that don't require purchasing arms and multiple parts. Shock caps? Steering Ackerman? Maybe something I'm forgetting?
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