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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-31-2017, 05:05 AM   #2791
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Originally Posted by suzukipro View Post
Hmm, I made this purchase based on the following compatibility descritpion listed on the sellers web site.

"TKR8184 Suspension Arms (rear, EB/NB48.4)
These arms have a new design that shifts the shock mounting point out towards the wheel for added high speed stability. These are backwards compatible with the original EB/NB but must be used in conjunction with the new front shock tower (TKR5269). Original rear hubs are NOT compatible. These must be used in conjuction with the newer .3 hubs (TKR5199/TKR5199A).

Note: these arms are not left right compatible.
"

I have the Rear .3 hubs and the .3 HRC hubs already and will assemble them and see what happens I guess. If this fails I'll have to consider spending some more money

Just buy the .4 you know you want it. plus now you will already have spares
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Old 01-31-2017, 10:43 AM   #2792
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Just buy the .4 you know you want it. plus now you will already have spares
Even if though it is unconventional I ordered the F/R hubs, spindles, uni's, outer hinge pins and bearings to make it work.
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Old 01-31-2017, 11:35 AM   #2793
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Update on the jconcepts s1 body.

Switched to the outer hole on my tekno servo horn. The s1 body does not have space for it. That's with the updated steering. Too bad because performance wise handling improved. I did cut out that area but now it's split between the center and right side, up front.

Didn't have problems when using the inner hole with the older ackerman plate. Hopefully there will be aftermarket bodies for the .4
How did handling improve by changing the hole on the servo arm? The only difference should be slightly quicker steering and slightly less torque. Nothing will change in the actual steering geometry.
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:18 PM   #2794
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Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:08 PM   #2795
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Originally Posted by Derrick87 View Post
Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
The .3 is a very good E buggy, but the .4 is even better!
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:11 PM   #2796
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Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
I Love my eb48.3, I do have the .4, but have yet to run it. So I can't really give an answer. I know the guys that have run it are in love.
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:43 PM   #2797
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Originally Posted by Derrick87 View Post
Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
The .3 is a good kit, but the .4 is better overall. It's just easier and more forgiving to drive but still has that precise feel to it.
I would say that a beginner to intermediate driver would benefit from the .4 more than a expert to pro driver would. When you make a mistake with the .4 it's just not as bad or as big of a deal as it was with the .3, the car doesn't get tossed around as easily. Since a beginner makes more mistakes than a pro they'll be able to put in more consistent laps with the .4.
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:01 PM   #2798
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How did handling improve by changing the hole on the servo arm? The only difference should be slightly quicker steering and slightly less torque. Nothing will change in the actual steering geometry.
read it again. I said the s1 body does not have space for the updated steering. Too bad because the body improved handling. I explained that with the .3 steering and with the hole on the inner servo horn hole it fit.

Why does this always happen? I didn't say switching the horn position changed handling. I said the s1 body fit my previous setup, which had the hole on the inner side of the horn. Reason why I switched to the outside hole is because I got a stronger servo and didn't need to go with the inner one. Please do not misunderstand and think I'm crediting the new servo for handling too. I'm not. Just the body.
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Old 01-31-2017, 06:37 PM   #2799
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Hey guys im very interested in getting a Tekno eb48.3 because of the price right now. Is the .4 really that much better or will a novice racer never notice?
It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times. I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4

Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.

I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.

If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
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Old 01-31-2017, 07:12 PM   #2800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
It is. You get quieter smoother universal driveshafts, quieter smoother ring and pinion, then there's shock cap and springs. I'm tired of saying it but steering is far better. Don't know if the wide rear hinge pin brace improves handling, but the screw that secures it now uses 2.5 driver, which eases the mind because the 2.0 screw looks as if it will strip out after going through the gearbox a few times.
The wide pivot combined with the hubs and shock location really settles the rear of the car down, much more forgiving.
I see no use for the new spindle carriers. The ball bearings there only add weight and bearings can't be cleaned out from dust. The .3 is easy to clean that area and I bet the bearings don't improve performance on the. 4
There are geometry differences with the new spindles and carriers that we feel gives the steering a more direct feel, and the car steers from the front now. The front is also easier to assemble and work on now, and the bearings really help keep tight tolerances.
Bottom line, there are updates that make the .4 worth getting. If you were to get the .3 and upgrade it to the .4 you'd be spending more money then just getting the. 4. Pay $5 for the super saver club at tower and you get several coupon codes, one if the codes gives you $75 off if you spend at least $499.

I wish I waited for the .4 instead of getting the .3 for $360. Right now .4 is $550+$5 supersaver membership-$75 off and you pay $480. Last month I think there was $90 off.

If you go with the .3 just get the updated ackerman plate, bellcrank steering and two 3x10 button head screws. Should be good enough. Maybe even as good.
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Old 02-01-2017, 12:35 AM   #2801
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Are the spindles a direct fit on .3 arms? Or are the .4 arms and hing pin braces required? Do the .4 rear hubs also fit on .3 rear arms? Thinking about universals too; are the new. 4 universal driveshafts compatible with .3 hubs and carriers?
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Old 02-01-2017, 05:11 AM   #2802
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Originally Posted by latentspeed View Post
Are the spindles a direct fit on .3 arms? Or are the .4 arms and hing pin braces required? Do the .4 rear hubs also fit on .3 rear arms? Thinking about universals too; are the new. 4 universal driveshafts compatible with .3 hubs and carriers?
For the front you will have to change all together- Arms, Hubs, Spindles and Universals.
Rear - C&D block, Arms, Hubs and Universals

Tekno does have Universals that fit the .3 though if you want to try that.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:41 AM   #2803
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Should i get a 14tooth pinion gear if im running a 1900kv?
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:41 AM   #2804
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Joe will the .3 rear hubs fit on the .4 arms to allow the use of cvd's (at least in the rear)?
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:51 AM   #2805
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Should i get a 14tooth pinion gear if im running a 1900kv?
Maybe if you are on a really small tight track, I'm not sure if it will fit though (Too big of a gap from spur gear)?
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