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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-19-2016, 01:20 PM   #2686
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Will you be able to update the .3 to a .4 ?
Or would it be cheaper to just buy a .4
FierceRC has had a habit of putting together a package to do that. I've been told it will be alot like the 2-3 upgrades, and you had to do certain stuff in sets. We'll have to wait and see. If Pete looks at it, and it doesn't make sense, it won't be offered.

If your at the point where your going to do a complete tear down for next season, after a season long abuse. Maybe not. Then again, it may still make sense if you haven't heavily abused it (raced 2-3 times a week all summer long, plus some bashing)

The nice thing about the .4, is that yes, it has alot of new redesigned stuff. But close to have of the updates are putting in all the option parts for the .3 into the base .4 package. Along with some pretty smart changes along the way.

Yes, I can't wait to add one.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:59 PM   #2687
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Okay this kit is killing me... I stripped another screw just trying to back it out of the rear D-block and I have no idea how to get it out. It's ALL the way in. Anyone have any tips? I'm just really bummed out that once again I've got to stop the build due to a bad screw. Using MIP drivers as well.

*facepalm*
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:30 AM   #2688
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EB48.4 New Parts Listing (Compared to original EB48.3)



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Old 12-20-2016, 08:14 AM   #2689
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Okay this kit is killing me... I stripped another screw just trying to back it out of the rear D-block and I have no idea how to get it out. It's ALL the way in. Anyone have any tips? I'm just really bummed out that once again I've got to stop the build due to a bad screw. Using MIP drivers as well.

*facepalm*
My only option when I did that was a dremel. If your lucky you can make a deep enough slot. I've also drilled the head out. and one time used the dremel enough that it made the head brittle. That one ended up with some cuts in the block to make it come off, but it was middle of the season, and I still run the block.
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:25 AM   #2690
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My only option when I did that was a dremel. If your lucky you can make a deep enough slot. I've also drilled the head out. and one time used the dremel enough that it made the head brittle. That one ended up with some cuts in the block to make it come off, but it was middle of the season, and I still run the block.
A dremel it is lol. I'll just have to cut into the D block a bit to make it deep enough but I'd rather replace the block than stop the build. Wish me luck! thanks man
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Old 12-20-2016, 08:32 AM   #2691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
Okay this kit is killing me... I stripped another screw just trying to back it out of the rear D-block and I have no idea how to get it out. It's ALL the way in. Anyone have any tips? I'm just really bummed out that once again I've got to stop the build due to a bad screw. Using MIP drivers as well.

*facepalm*
Get a set of small metric grabits from Sears or a hardware store (I don't believe that is the name brand for Sears, etc., but they should know what you are talking about).

Some people have replaced these with the 2.5mm driver cap head screws (3mm by 40mm). They probably won't fit flush, but should work and be easier to install and remove.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:08 AM   #2692
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Get a set of small metric grabits from Sears or a hardware store (I don't believe that is the name brand for Sears, etc., but they should know what you are talking about).

Some people have replaced these with the 2.5mm driver cap head screws (3mm by 40mm). They probably won't fit flush, but should work and be easier to install and remove.
I think the cap head screws would be ideal. I was gonna make on order for Tony's Screws so I might as well get some cap heads. Hopefully the screw extractors work though. It'd be nice to not cut into the D block
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:08 AM   #2693
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Use some grease or chapstick on bolts like that. When they bite that deep into the plastic it helps quite a bit.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:17 AM   #2694
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A dremel it is lol. I'll just have to cut into the D block a bit to make it deep enough but I'd rather replace the block than stop the build. Wish me luck! thanks man
Drill it. Grab a bit that is slightly narrower than the screw head. Once you drill down a little ways, the head will pop off. Then you can just pull the d-block off and grab the remaining end of the screw with a pair of pliers to un-screw it. I've had to do that a couple of times on mine.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:21 AM   #2695
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Drill it. Grab a bit that is slightly narrower than the screw head. Once you drill down a little ways, the head will pop off. Then you can just pull the d-block off and grab the remaining end of the screw with a pair of pliers to un-screw it. I've had to do that a couple of times on mine.
I'll try that if the dremel or screw extractor doesn't work. My forearms are pretty weak right now from a medical issues so using pliers all the way would kill my arm lol
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #2696
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So what is the theory behind the gearing change? It seems like you will just change the pinion size and end up with the same final drive as the .3. Assuming use of the same motor of course.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:59 AM   #2697
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new car is coming with cap screws for that area with new hingepin blocks. Glad to see tekno updated that. I'll probably take out the long flat heads here and just put the caps in for my SCT410.3 as even though mine haven't stripped, just feels like a matter of time. Probably why the last car I got in had a bunch of extras for those screws.
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:02 AM   #2698
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going to a taller internal gear ratio should make the power delivery smoother to the ground. This change should allow for less wheel spin when the grip levels aren't high. Keep in mind that historically the NB and EB share the same drive train, so this will be magnified with a Nitro Motor, assuming that carries over. ()

The standard 18-19 gearing for a 1900KV motor will shift to the 16-17 range. Remember as always, run a few min under race conditions and then temp your motor. Don't run 10 min and discover it's at 200 degrees. Do 3-4, temp it. Then let it cool and try 6-8. Extended it again to 8-10. Remember to let it cool in between runs and always simulate race conditions (charged pack, drive like you would race, not bash, etc.)

I haven't gotten a .4 yet, but everything everyone has told me is very positive.
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Old 12-20-2016, 10:08 AM   #2699
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I haven't gotten a .4 yet, but everything everyone has told me is very positive.
That makes 2 of us. Have to sell a few things to grab one. (NB48.3 will be going buh bye)
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:02 PM   #2700
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So I just wound up cutting off the d-block to save me some cash since I already had an aluminum replacement on the way. I was just hoping I could save it until I had a proper breakage.
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