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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-08-2016, 07:42 AM   #2521
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I just picked up a used buggy and was wondering what a good starting point on the shock oils would be? i will be using losi oils for now and eventually switching to pt. (replacing oil as needed)
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Old 11-08-2016, 12:39 PM   #2522
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I just picked up a used buggy and was wondering what a good starting point on the shock oils would be? i will be using losi oils for now and eventually switching to pt. (replacing oil as needed)
http://www.ptrcracing.com/Technical-Data.html

Go there and look. It has a chart. Plan to use 425 fr and 475 rear on kit pistons (4x1.8) with bladders. If you have 3 holes and emulsions, it's different. scroll back a few pages I think Matt mentions it. If not, message me and I'll find out for you.

And for what it's worth, I start with Joe's Southern Nats setup from 2015. If you don't have all the new parts (springs, pistons, shock caps, hubs) I suggest starting there.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:01 PM   #2523
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
http://www.ptrcracing.com/Technical-Data.html

Go there and look. It has a chart. Plan to use 425 fr and 475 rear on kit pistons (4x1.8) with bladders. If you have 3 holes and emulsions, it's different. scroll back a few pages I think Matt mentions it. If not, message me and I'll find out for you.

And for what it's worth, I start with Joe's Southern Nats setup from 2015. If you don't have all the new parts (springs, pistons, shock caps, hubs) I suggest starting there.
Thanks bob. I want to get the new parts but they seemed to be back ordered everywhere.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:32 PM   #2524
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Thanks bob. I want to get the new parts but they seemed to be back ordered everywhere.
Yeah I haven't even tried ordering them yet myself. I'm going to be placing a fairly substantial order in another month or two. Hopefully they are back in stock then.
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Old 11-08-2016, 03:46 PM   #2525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
http://www.ptrcracing.com/Technical-Data.html

Go there and look. It has a chart. Plan to use 425 fr and 475 rear on kit pistons (4x1.8) with bladders. If you have 3 holes and emulsions, it's different. scroll back a few pages I think Matt mentions it. If not, message me and I'll find out for you.

And for what it's worth, I start with Joe's Southern Nats setup from 2015. If you don't have all the new parts (springs, pistons, shock caps, hubs) I suggest starting there.
earlier you told me that you run 7-7-5 just about everywhere. is that with pt oils? so if I use losi oils I should do 5-5-3?
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:58 PM   #2526
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earlier you told me that you run 7-7-5 just about everywhere. is that with pt oils? so if I use losi oils I should do 5-5-3?
yeah I would try that.
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:56 PM   #2527
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yeah I would try that.
thank you so much
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:10 AM   #2528
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:37 AM   #2529
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
yeah I would try that.
I usually run 7/7/5 PT oils, but I have been dealing with a MASSIVE front end push off power, mainly entering sharp turns. I've tried a number of the suggestions on here to reduce it, but it's still a problem.

I've been using the Bornhorst Southern Nats setup, with a couple of small tweaks to give a small bit more rear traction, but I was having trouble with it pushing off power when it was set up exactly as the sheet. I had the same problem when I was using the box stock setup as well, but the buggy felt a bit more "lazy" overall, compared to Joe's setup.

At the last race a couple weeks ago, I dropped down to a 2.2 front sway bar, and went to 5K front diff oil. It helped some, but didn't completely solve the problem. If I'm on a high bite surface, it's not as bad as on a looser / more dry surface, but it's still nowhere near as good as the Mugens, and Serpents that were at the same race.

All of the guys running Tekno EB's were having a similar problem....it makes the car less likely to spin out, but it also made us all have to slow way down entering tight corners.

I'd love to find a solution that solves the front end push, but maintains the stability that I like everywhere else.
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:47 AM   #2530
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Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
I usually run 7/7/5 PT oils, but I have been dealing with a MASSIVE front end push off power, mainly entering sharp turns. I've tried a number of the suggestions on here to reduce it, but it's still a problem.

I've been using the Bornhorst Southern Nats setup, with a couple of small tweaks to give a small bit more rear traction, but I was having trouble with it pushing off power when it was set up exactly as the sheet. I had the same problem when I was using the box stock setup as well, but the buggy felt a bit more "lazy" overall, compared to Joe's setup.

At the last race a couple weeks ago, I dropped down to a 2.2 front sway bar, and went to 5K front diff oil. It helped some, but didn't completely solve the problem. If I'm on a high bite surface, it's not as bad as on a looser / more dry surface, but it's still nowhere near as good as the Mugens, and Serpents that were at the same race.

All of the guys running Tekno EB's were having a similar problem....it makes the car less likely to spin out, but it also made us all have to slow way down entering tight corners.

I'd love to find a solution that solves the front end push, but maintains the stability that I like everywhere else.
First things I would try is more front toe out, and then shorter rear wheelbase if you have enough on power steering (the shorter wheelbase will take away on power steering).
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:28 AM   #2531
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Stubbs when entering corner are you still one the brakes, even a little ?
I think I advised a lower front ride height (24-25f 26 27 rear).
I'll look through you post to find more info on what hasn't been tried and see your setup.
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:43 AM   #2532
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Quickly glancing at the setup you tried :
- Ride height as said 24f-27r
- more kick up would be my first choice for your problem . As the car slows down entering the corner the front will nose dive more thus giving a lower front rc (more weight transferred to the front as you corner).

your stability comes from the fact that you rear camber links are long, so as you accelerate your car squat and in this situation longer arms = lower rc as you accelerate more = exit corner stability .

-Try position 4A on the front camber link and/or 5D on the rear. This will lower the front rc and rise the rear rc.
If you're then loosing rear stability on exit corner then reduce antisquat at the rear. Again same idea as the front earlier the car squat at the rear when accelerating = lower rear rc

My two cents
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:48 AM   #2533
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Quickly glancing at the setup you tried :
- more kick up would be my first choice for your problem . As the car slows down entering the corner the front will nose dive more thus giving a lower front rc (more weight transferred to the front as you corner).
More kick up is going to give even less entry steering
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:12 PM   #2534
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More kick up is going to give even less entry steering
how ?
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:06 AM   #2535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
I usually run 7/7/5 PT oils, but I have been dealing with a MASSIVE front end push off power, mainly entering sharp turns. I've tried a number of the suggestions on here to reduce it, but it's still a problem.

I've been using the Bornhorst Southern Nats setup, with a couple of small tweaks to give a small bit more rear traction, but I was having trouble with it pushing off power when it was set up exactly as the sheet. I had the same problem when I was using the box stock setup as well, but the buggy felt a bit more "lazy" overall, compared to Joe's setup.

At the last race a couple weeks ago, I dropped down to a 2.2 front sway bar, and went to 5K front diff oil. It helped some, but didn't completely solve the problem. If I'm on a high bite surface, it's not as bad as on a looser / more dry surface, but it's still nowhere near as good as the Mugens, and Serpents that were at the same race.

All of the guys running Tekno EB's were having a similar problem....it makes the car less likely to spin out, but it also made us all have to slow way down entering tight corners.

I'd love to find a solution that solves the front end push, but maintains the stability that I like everywhere else.
Have you tried just staying on power? Not trying to be an ass, I'm serious. Just because you are on power doesn't mean you have to be hammer down. You just want to slow down / prevent all that weight transfer. If you can make your car rotate through the turn while on power, then that's clearly the best choice. (ie...the issue may be in the rear of the car. You may have locked it in too much and not let it slide through the turn)

The first thing I would try is going to the track on a practice day and just running pack after pack focusing on your throttle. Don't ever let completely off unless you have to brake. See if adapting your driving style some helps. If you get this down, your lap times and consistency will improve greatly.

Also see if one of the fast guys can drive your car. Don't ask them if there's anything wrong with it or mention the push. Just let them drive it and watch how the car looks / reacts while in their hands. That will help you determine if it's you or the car.

If you're absolutely certain it's an off power push that you have to remove then the first step is determine if the push is coming from a geometrical setting that is off (Roll Center, kick up, etc) or too much / little weight transfer. Attack the weight transfer first because it's easier to actually see.

For weight transfer I would start with ride height and droop adjustments. Maybe lower the front ride height a mm and give a little more droop in the rear for more transfer, or the opposite for less.
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