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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-24-2016, 10:33 PM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
From your setup sheet I'd try 24mm or less front ride height and 1 toe out front.
The camber links are already giving you quite a low front RC compared to the rear RC to a car that, as said, has tons of steer.

My two cents as some says

Edit: Something just went across my mind : what tires are you using ? Sometimes it's as simple a that.
I appreciate the advice. I'm running AKA Impacts.
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Old 10-24-2016, 10:35 PM   #2417
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Yeah I can't get it to attach. Keeps saying file size is too big. Anyone know how to reduce the file size of a .pdf?

EDIT: Maybe this will work...
I'm trying to get a good grasp on wha the pills indicate. Your rear toe is -3.5 degrees right? You posted "0" on your setup sheet, but I figured you just left it blank and didn't actually mean "0" degrees? Am I right?
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Last edited by jason07; 10-24-2016 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:10 AM   #2418
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Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I'm trying to get a good grasp on wha the pills indicate. Your rear toe is -3.5 degrees right? You posted "0" on your setup sheet, but I figured you just left it blank and didn't actually mean "0" degrees? Am I right?
Front toe is 0, rear is 2.5.
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:22 AM   #2419
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Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Most definitely, we have been using TKR6018 emulsion caps on the EB, NB, SCT and EB48SL with great success!
Matt,
I crash too often to risk plastic caps on a buggy. Please say an aluminum version will be available soon.

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:39 AM   #2420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I tried searching and didn't find the exact answer.

I'm struggling with off power steering (or just getting through a corner tight vs taking it wide)

I used the Joe Bornhorst setup but I have gotten so far away from that that I'm not sure what to call it.

I am using 7/7/5 in the diffs and I believe 425/ 475 in the shocks. The car just won't turn into the corner, I can't comment if its getting out of the corner well because I have to go so slow to setup for the exit.

Any help would be appreciated.
I have my 48.3 setup to factory standards except for shock oil. I am running 5 5 5 in the duffs and have no issues with tight cornering entering or exiting. I enter the corner with speed or coast and get back on throttle 1/2 way through and the rear just comes around perfectly. I am running on a loose dirt outdoor track. I would say medium to low bite at best. I am also using TLR shock oil 40wt front and rear. So far so good.
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:51 AM   #2421
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Matt,
I crash too often to risk plastic caps on a buggy. Please say an aluminum version will be available soon.

Thanks
Not for some time. We have been using the plastic caps for a while and they are very durable. I personally have never broken one. Several of our team guys have been using them for years and only broken a couple.
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:54 AM   #2422
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I have never broken a plastic cap on my NB, I was running plastic on the NB for awhile because I hated the look of the scratched up alum... But haven't had any issues with durability.

Is there much of a difference between emul and vented? I run emul on my sct and vented on my buggies, but don't know the actual differences in performance.
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:00 AM   #2423
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I have never broken a plastic cap on my NB, I was running plastic on the NB for awhile because I hated the look of the scratched up alum... But haven't had any issues with durability.

Is there much of a difference between emul and vented? I run emul on my sct and vented on my buggies, but don't know the actual differences in performance.
Quite a bit of difference actually. Emulsion is better on bumpy tracks and also helps reduce chassis roll, lands better too. We run emulsion on all EBs and NBs. Vented caps have a slight delay when the bladder compresses before they start producing resistance.
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:57 AM   #2424
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Why isn't emulsion recommended for stock setup? When I built my SCT i went emulsion since that is what I used on my Losi SCTE, I never knew the differences between the styles though. I only went it because it's what I knew.

Thanks for clearing up the pros/cons a bit.
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Old 10-25-2016, 12:13 PM   #2425
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Why isn't emulsion recommended for stock setup? When I built my SCT i went emulsion since that is what I used on my Losi SCTE, I never knew the differences between the styles though. I only went it because it's what I knew.

Thanks for clearing up the pros/cons a bit.
If you look on Tekno's website they have updated setup sheets for outdoor, rough outdoor, and indoor.
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Old 10-25-2016, 03:53 PM   #2426
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Has anyone tried the new JC Body? I am finding the servo horn hits the body and not just a little bit
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Old 10-25-2016, 04:19 PM   #2427
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I haven't had any issues with servo horn rubbing, I use the tekno alum horn and 0 issues
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Old 10-25-2016, 09:18 PM   #2428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Front toe is 0, rear is 2.5.

I actually said that but then I edited my post.

Thanks
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Old 10-25-2016, 10:58 PM   #2429
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
If you look on Tekno's website they have updated setup sheets for outdoor, rough outdoor, and indoor.
I just set mine up based on the new outdoor setup. Man the bump steer is agressive. At full compression theres allot of toe out. Ill find out tomorrow night how it feels
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Old 10-26-2016, 04:48 AM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
If you look on Tekno's website they have updated setup sheets for outdoor, rough outdoor, and indoor.
Just double checking that in the new outdoor setup that using different pistons front to rear isn't a Typo?
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