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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 10-13-2016, 07:48 AM   #2341
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
2274 is what Ty and Cav run. I would run them as well if I didn't already have my 1268. FWIW, they are almost the same exact specs.

Also I disagree that you want .10 speed of faster. I think that for the majority of the world, that only hurts you. Kinwald was famous for running high torque helicopter servos in his 2wd buggies for years. For me, anything faster than .13 is probably too fast and will likely cause me to drive more erratically. I suggest looking in that range, not to mention it will likely cost less to get something in that range.

ultimately it's preference, but I believe if you run something in the 300-400 oz torque with .13-.15 speed, you'll and up driving more consistent on the track.
Thank you. That's exactly the info I was looking for! 👍🏼
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Old 10-13-2016, 01:00 PM   #2342
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Thank you. That's exactly the info I was looking for! 👍🏼
Got some ko propo rsx2 servo (power and response version) for my nb48.3 possibly one of my biggest regret. They're good (although one is already wobbly around neutral and that is with less than 8liters...) but they certainly didn't make the car faster or easier for me.
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:29 AM   #2343
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Currently running a setup close to southern nats, pinks up front, reds in the rear, front end seems perfect, but rear is stuck or loose depending on the surface, would dropping to orange springs help when the traction goes down?
Running 775, but will be trying 664 this week???
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:40 PM   #2344
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Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
Currently running a setup close to southern nats, pinks up front, reds in the rear, front end seems perfect, but rear is stuck or loose depending on the surface, would dropping to orange springs help when the traction goes down?
Running 775, but will be trying 664 this week???
What in your setup is diff from the southern nats setup? When is the buggy too loose and when is it too locked down?

I run the southern nats setup with 996 and hrc rear hubs and rear end is locked down, maybe a tad too much. I'm still getting use to the hrc rear hubs tho.
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Old 10-14-2016, 10:19 PM   #2345
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What in your setup is diff from the southern nats setup? When is the buggy too loose and when is it too locked down?

I run the southern nats setup with 996 and hrc rear hubs and rear end is locked down, maybe a tad too much. I'm still getting use to the hrc rear hubs tho.
Hrc rear hubs noticeable?
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Old 10-15-2016, 12:22 PM   #2346
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Hrc rear hubs noticeable?
Just tried 6,6,4 ae. And ^ what he said
Cars feeling a bit better, mostly off power.
Main changes from Southern nats, was to the rear pill. Which I seen bornhorst did also after me for ams. Middle 2 dot out
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:34 PM   #2347
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Hello guys, so today was my first time racing , and I burned up 2 savox 1256 servos , any ideas were to start on figurein out the problem, thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:43 PM   #2348
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Our rule of thumb is 300+ oz torque. the 1256 is 277oz of torque.

With that being said, it SHOULD be enough. But if you're rough on the car, landing often on one wheel, taking big tumbles, etc... you could blow through one.

The other thing is make sure your servo saver is actually working, nothing is bound. Also it's NOT an HV servo, so you can only run it at 6 volts.

This is actually the servo I had in my 10th scale stuff and 4wd sct prior to switching to the 1268.
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:56 PM   #2349
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Our rule of thumb is 300+ oz torque. the 1256 is 277oz of torque.

With that being said, it SHOULD be enough. But if you're rough on the car, landing often on one wheel, taking big tumbles, etc... you could blow through one.

The other thing is make sure your servo saver is actually working, nothing is bound. Also it's NOT an HV servo, so you can only run it at 6 volts.

This is actually the servo I had in my 10th scale stuff and 4wd sct prior to switching to the 1268.
I'll buy the 1268 next and try it , I just can't keep buying servos every heat
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:10 PM   #2350
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Originally Posted by Expose193 View Post
I'll buy the 1268 next and try it , I just can't keep buying servos every heat
Not sure if this was already mentioned, but if you're using our new servo horns, be sure to use the short position. Puts less leverage on the servo and amplifies the torque.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:13 PM   #2351
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Not sure if this was already mentioned, but if you're using our new servo horns, be sure to use the short position. Puts less leverage on the servo and amplifies the torque.
OK yeah I did upgrade to the tekno aluminum servo on the outside position, I'll switch that also , we're the the 6 volts come in at my esc setting ?
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:25 PM   #2352
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OK yeah I did upgrade to the tekno aluminum servo on the outside position, I'll switch that also , we're the the 6 volts come in at my esc setting ?
Using the short position, the servo will feel a little slower. This isn't necessarily a bad thing but if you feel it's too slow recommend bumping the voltage to 7.4 if possible.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:29 PM   #2353
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Using the short position, the servo will feel a little slower. This isn't necessarily a bad thing but if you feel it's too slow recommend bumping the voltage to 7.4 if possible.
How do I bump up the voltage?, I'm running the rx8 gen2 withe tekin 1900 kv
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:52 PM   #2354
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Hrc rear hubs noticeable?
Been very noticeable for me. Sometimes I feel like the rear is locked down too much.
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Old 10-15-2016, 09:55 PM   #2355
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How do I bump up the voltage?, I'm running the rx8 gen2 withe tekin 1900 kv
Tekin hotwire interface allows you to change the bec voltage. Did you set the endpoints for steering on your radio?
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