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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-27-2016, 07:04 PM   #2131
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Enduros aren't bad, in fact I use them for practice alot on a similar surface. And feel they work pretty well. They excel on clean pack and soft loam.
However offer a large pin and moderate traction on just about any suface I've run so far, thus have made a great practice tire.
I run a few tracks and have found when rutted up I prefer lockdowns, when it's packed and wet holeshot, or lil chasers. if it's packed dry with dust grid iron II's
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:58 AM   #2132
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Thats a nice lookin track !! I would run a Dirt Effect or even a Micro Contact there. Sweep Racing Makes incredible tires at a fraction of the cost of the major Brands
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:35 PM   #2133
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Ok, hit the track today from 9am-7pm and got some more experience on it. it is loose for everyone today, was very dry and dusty. it was watered down twice, and it even rained for a little bit.. but its florida and it dries up instantly. I went away from the southern nats setup, and to stock but with 7/7/5 and pink/red. I had the stock steering, bump, camber, ride height, etc.. it felt a lot better once i turned my radios steering to 70-85%. at 100% i had trouble lining up jumps, keeping it straight, and it was a total handful... but i lowered it down to 70-85% and it didnt have as much turning, but it would jump way better.. now if i could only steer a little sharper, it would be amazing. in order to make some of the really sharp turns i had to whip it a little. I also ordered a new aluminum horn since i switched servos and my old tekno horn was only 24t, needed 25t now. and wow.. i went through 3 composite horns in less than 2 hours... i finally found someone who had a aluminum horn that fit, kinda.. i had to add a bunch of spaces to raise the connector on the ackerman, but it works until i get mine later this week. I couldnt believe that 3 composite horns stripped out that fast though... I did change my servo though, before it was a low torque hitec, and now i have a savox and i switched from 6v to 7.4, and its sooo much better, if it doesn't strip the horns!

overall i love the car, just hope i can get it dialed in better. starting with the stock setup so i can get used to the car, then ill make adjustments from there. ill eventually get better tires for the track too. gotta admit, it is a blast to drive!


ps, how unsafe is it to not run the rear chassis brace? and what would you recommend to having better steering? I like having it reduced on my radio so i am more stable and not twitchy, but i can't really steer sharp enough as easy for some turns with it like that...
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Last edited by deceit; 08-28-2016 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:55 PM   #2134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Ok, hit the track today from 9am-7pm and got some more experience on it. it is loose for everyone today, was very dry and dusty. it was watered down twice, and it even rained for a little bit.. but its florida and it dries up instantly. I went away from the southern nats setup, and to stock but with 7/7/5 and pink/red. I had the stock steering, bump, camber, ride height, etc.. it felt a lot better once i turned my radios steering to 70-85%. at 100% i had trouble lining up jumps, keeping it straight, and it was a total handful... but i lowered it down to 70-85% and it didnt have as much turning, but it would jump way better.. now if i could only steer a little sharper, it would be amazing. in order to make some of the really sharp turns i had to whip it a little. I also ordered a new aluminum horn since i switched servos and my old tekno horn was only 24t, needed 25t now. and wow.. i went through 3 composite horns in less than 2 hours... i finally found someone who had a aluminum horn that fit, kinda.. i had to add a bunch of spaces to raise the connector on the ackerman, but it works until i get mine later this week. I couldnt believe that 3 composite horns stripped out that fast though... I did change my servo though, before it was a low torque hitec, and now i have a savox and i switched from 6v to 7.4, and its sooo much better, if it doesn't strip the horns!

overall i love the car, just hope i can get it dialed in better. starting with the stock setup so i can get used to the car, then ill make adjustments from there. ill eventually get better tires for the track too. gotta admit, it is a blast to drive!


ps, how unsafe is it to not run the rear chassis brace? and what would you recommend to having better steering? I like having it reduced on my radio so i am more stable and not twitchy, but i can't really steer sharp enough as easy for some turns with it like that...
Not running the rear and center chassis braces is quite normal and won't be a problem. The front brace is all that is required.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:00 PM   #2135
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Not running the rear and center chassis braces is quite normal and won't be a problem. The front brace is all that is required.
Ok cool, what does not running those braces help with? I see it is pretty common practice, just not sure what all it does. Thanks for the reply, trying to learn all this!
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:13 PM   #2136
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Ok cool, what does not running those braces help with? I see it is pretty common practice, just not sure what all it does. Thanks for the reply, trying to learn all this!
Overall better stability and rear grip.
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:21 PM   #2137
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Awesome, i'll try that out.. I was having a ton of issues with rear grip. I was just worried about warping my chassis since I just built this buggy this week, and didn't want to bend anything just yet!
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Old 08-28-2016, 10:00 PM   #2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Not running the rear and center chassis braces is quite normal and won't be a problem. The front brace is all that is required.
Depends on how smooth of a driver you are. A local sponsored driver tweaked a chassis and bent the center driveshaft without braces. He now runs all the braces.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:05 AM   #2139
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I'm a decent driver, but sometimes I like to do dumb stuff. I've had some GLORIOUS wrecks while trying to pull a quad that should be a triple, or stuff like that. I only run the front brace and I've yet to tweak a chassis.

Odds are if you hit something hard enough to tweak a chassis it won't matter how many braces you have on the car.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:02 AM   #2140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Ok, hit the track today from 9am-7pm and got some more experience on it. it is loose for everyone today, was very dry and dusty. it was watered down twice, and it even rained for a little bit.. but its florida and it dries up instantly. I went away from the southern nats setup, and to stock but with 7/7/5 and pink/red. I had the stock steering, bump, camber, ride height, etc.. it felt a lot better once i turned my radios steering to 70-85%. at 100% i had trouble lining up jumps, keeping it straight, and it was a total handful... but i lowered it down to 70-85% and it didnt have as much turning, but it would jump way better.. now if i could only steer a little sharper, it would be amazing. in order to make some of the really sharp turns i had to whip it a little. I also ordered a new aluminum horn since i switched servos and my old tekno horn was only 24t, needed 25t now. and wow.. i went through 3 composite horns in less than 2 hours... i finally found someone who had a aluminum horn that fit, kinda.. i had to add a bunch of spaces to raise the connector on the ackerman, but it works until i get mine later this week. I couldnt believe that 3 composite horns stripped out that fast though... I did change my servo though, before it was a low torque hitec, and now i have a savox and i switched from 6v to 7.4, and its sooo much better, if it doesn't strip the horns!

overall i love the car, just hope i can get it dialed in better. starting with the stock setup so i can get used to the car, then ill make adjustments from there. ill eventually get better tires for the track too. gotta admit, it is a blast to drive!


ps, how unsafe is it to not run the rear chassis brace? and what would you recommend to having better steering? I like having it reduced on my radio so i am more stable and not twitchy, but i can't really steer sharp enough as easy for some turns with it like that...
Try turning your dual rates up to 90-95% and use your radio's exponential setting to make the car less twitchy. Also make sure you're running the steering limiters in the spindles, not having them in can make the car feel a little unpredictable in the turns. And when you get your new servo horn run the inner hole as it increases the travel needed to turn lock to lock, giving you more mechanical resolution.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:29 PM   #2141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Odds are if you hit something hard enough to tweak a chassis it won't matter how many braces you have on the car.
So true !
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Old 08-29-2016, 04:43 PM   #2142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Odds are if you hit something hard enough to tweak a chassis it won't matter how many braces you have on the car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cappy View Post
So true !
I have NO IDEA what you're talking about!

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Old 08-29-2016, 08:57 PM   #2143
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Shock shafts bending and shock boots tearing!!

My son and I have both been running EB48.3s for about a month (3 races). I am really disappointed in the shocks. The shafts bend way too easily. I had one bend due to a broken control arm and that is understandable. But between us, we have had 5 others bend. Before the EB48.3s, I don't think we had bent that many total shock shafts in all our years of RC racing.

The shock boots are somehow worse than the shafts. I replaced the boots before this last weekends race and one is already torn. Maybe 45 minutes of run time.

Any solutions to either of these issues?
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:09 PM   #2144
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Originally Posted by ninefifteen View Post
Shock shafts bending and shock boots tearing!!

My son and I have both been running EB48.3s for about a month (3 races). I am really disappointed in the shocks. The shafts bend way too easily. I had one bend due to a broken control arm and that is understandable. But between us, we have had 5 others bend. Before the EB48.3s, I don't think we had bent that many total shock shafts in all our years of RC racing.

The shock boots are somehow worse than the shafts. I replaced the boots before this last weekends race and one is already torn. Maybe 45 minutes of run time.

Any solutions to either of these issues?
Get the Delrin lower bushings for the shocks. They will help with the shaft bending issue. Won't completely stop it, but it does help.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:26 PM   #2145
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I actually just purchased the delrin bushings (not installed yet). Rebuilding the shocks this week with the derlin bushings and Ti shafts. Hopefully that helps!
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