3 weeks ago, I ran my newly built MBX7r ECO, just couple of days ago I ran my newly built 48.3. Both cars according to stock setup, and have identical electronics and tires.

Mugen: Pro: Lots of turn-in. Lots of overall steering. Glides through hair pins with ease. Chassis very balance. Very stable. More space to fit a fan/cooling fin for the motor. Can accomodate bigger ESC. The car is not so finicky on tires. Cons: More flimsy plastic materials. Wears out easily. The parts design are not as well thought out as Tekno. The original suspension setting seems very soft, the car bottoms out easily after jump, and tends to traction roll easily. After around 15 runs the lower a-arm broke without any crash.

48.3: Very stable jumps, especially landing. Car act like a suckion cup. Very well thought out parts design, basically fixed all the small hick ups of the 48.2. Very good quality plastic parts. Car sturdy like a tank. Quite sensitive and responsive to tires and setting changes. Cons: Not as much steering as the MBX, especially turn in. Getting out of the corner need a bit of wrestling, car would tell me I throttle too much too early by giving me a wriggle on its tail. I keep all the reinforcement struts, as I once bent a chassis of my .2 right after I took off the mid and rear struts. With the struts off I am sure the car would have more traction and steering, but I just won't risk a chassis to do that. The space is too cramp, I think the ESC mounting space is designed for Tekin.

My verdict: Mylaps tell me out of the box I am about half a sec faster with my Mugen. I miss my Mugen as I wrestle the .3 out of hairpins. However, the .3 shine on jumps, bring a big grin on my face.

My .02 cents

the ?? is which one do you used more now the mugen or the tekno

I've driven a few of the Mugen's. I found that they were more lazy in general, as I can't get as aggressive with them or get the turn in I want (with the setups I tried on other folks vehicles) without also making the rear break free a lot more than I want. It jumped confidently when going for a normal jump and downside, but I couldn't land it sideways without something odd happening (a bounce, a roll, a wiggle, etc). Both it and the EB48.2/3 are good cars, and both can be tuned towards your driving style, but I believe the EB48.3 has the largest range of tunability in that regard. I converted my EB48.2 to an EB48.3, so never ran the box stock setup that the 48.3 ships with. That being said, holy crap is this thing stable and BEGGING to be driven hard. Not because it needs throttle to drive ok, but because I can throw it off of any jump in any direction and it'll land it without issue, and I can go full throttle/brake and get exactly what I expect in a controllable and stable way. I find the EB48.3 to be way more forgiving than the EB48.2 or the Mugen in all regards. When I went from the EB48.2 to the EB48.3, I didn't get faster...I just stopped having big mistakes and my lap time spread became very close to my fast lap.

Anyone fine a better shock boot for this car the stock ones are like to big and get pinched between the spring and spring perch on compression. After running them for a little while it looks like someone took a knife to them.

I've been happy with the new boots.

i like the tlr boots the best. for me they have held up better than the updated tekno boots and also do a better job of keeping dirt out as they have a tighter seal around the shaft and cartridge caps.

Take the smallest hole on your punch and put a hole way up at the top. Pount the hole to the back of the car. The air wont blow the boot up and into the spring this way.

I don't think this will help much because of the amount of cuts the are in the boots.

I believe he was suggesting that you try this with a new set of boots :)

After the first cut in the boot it's vented right? If that were to work I shouldn't see any more cuts in the boots, some of my boots have four cuts in them.

Anyone else having the screws from the mudguards rubbing on the body shell ?

I have had this on certain bodies. I am thinking about using a countersink bit on the guard and using a countersunk screw for it to fit flush.

screws rubbing
 

I run the Leadfinger assassin body and mud guard screws have rubbing really badly to the state there is nearly a hole in the body from them and that's just after 1 local club meet. Might have to trim the body more to get the freedom and not bind. But its the only bad thing i have found on it so far.

I just trimmed off a little lexan off that area. Problem solved. Removed lexan is not easily visible nor does it cause any problems. This is across the stock, JConcepts and LFR bodies.

I just purchased a used EB48.2. Can I slowly replace my existing parts to the new .3 - or does it all need to be changed at once to work?