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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-01-2016, 09:01 PM   #1561
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
6v


Ok, I have a Savox 2274 on order, I'll want to set it to 7.4v, correct ?
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:44 PM   #1562
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I agree.

Tried 2 2s. and had the cells on one pack dip way below my comfort level. Threw that pack out, and been 4s ever since.
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Originally Posted by shannow View Post
Honestly avoid it if you can.
I had 2x2s batteries with some foam and stuff to hold it in place but no matter after a short while with crashes and impacts one battery would slide over the over and hit the plugs... this caused the plugs to rip the case off.

After two track session like this I gave up, sold the 2x2s and got the cheap 4s 5000mah 20c from hk for the same price I sold the others and never had any problem since.

I saw one of you used HK Lipos. I see SMC isn't available right now, any other really decent budget batteries for 4s that work good for these buggies?
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:08 AM   #1563
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Hey guys I've got a ?? For you all since all mighty tekin rx8 gen 2 esc decided to die on me at first round off qf on the weekend cost me weekend racing so I had sit watch
So instead buying a other tekin esc what is best fit for a other esc that is in the high range like the tekin that can fit the tekno eb48
A couple of Tekno sponsored guys at my track are running Graupner 180a ESCs with one of them running it for more than a year with no issues. I recently switched to the new version "180r" and have been happy with them so far on all my Tekno cars. I also just purchase their X8-n radio that works with the telemetry that the 180r provides. You can also adjust all esc settings from the radio. If you order the ESC, send them a message asking if the programming lcd is included and they will send you one free of charge (at least they did for myself and another friend that switched to Graupner. worth a try).

http://www.graupnerusa.com/GM-GENIUS...ESC_p_909.html
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EB48.3- Tekin 1350kv Graupner 180r SMC 3600 6s
ET48.3- Tekin 1400kv Graupner 180r SMC 4300 6s
MT48.3- Castle 2200kv MM2 SMC 4300 6s
X-Maxx- Velineon 1600kv HW Max6 SPC 5600 3s(x2)
SMT10 Grave Digger- Tekin 8.5t MMX SMC 4300 3s
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:12 AM   #1564
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Originally Posted by coombes View Post
Hey guys I've got a ?? For you all since all mighty tekin rx8 gen 2 esc decided to die on me at first round off qf on the weekend cost me weekend racing so I had sit watch
So instead buying a other tekin esc what is best fit for a other esc that is in the high range like the tekin that can fit the tekno eb48
A couple of Tekno sponsored guys at my track are running Graupner 180a ESCs with one of them running it for more than a year with no issues. I recently switched to the new version "180r" and have been happy with them so far on all my Tekno cars. I also just purchase their X8-n radio that works with the telemetry that the 180r provides. You can also adjust all esc settings from the radio. If you order the ESC, send them a message asking if the programming lcd is included and they will send you one free of charge (at least they did for myself and another friend that switched to Graupner. worth a try).

http://www.graupnerusa.com/GM-GENIUS...ESC_p_909.html
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EB48.3- Tekin 1350kv Graupner 180r SMC 3600 6s
ET48.3- Tekin 1400kv Graupner 180r SMC 4300 6s
MT48.3- Castle 2200kv MM2 SMC 4300 6s
X-Maxx- Velineon 1600kv HW Max6 SPC 5600 3s(x2)
SMT10 Grave Digger- Tekin 8.5t MMX SMC 4300 3s
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Old 05-02-2016, 03:15 AM   #1565
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ur1030/p498182
fioroni piston with balls : cool little piece of technology !
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:30 AM   #1566
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Originally Posted by werner sline View Post
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...ur1030/p498182
fioroni piston with balls : cool little piece of technology !
That is really neat.
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:36 AM   #1567
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It's a little off topic but could someone tell me how to find or give me the part number corresponding to these (both size M) :
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...phite-heather/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...ill-mesh-back/
I'd like to order them in my LHS in France but they asked me for the reference numbers.

Thanks
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:04 AM   #1568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shannow View Post
It's a little off topic but could someone tell me how to find or give me the part number corresponding to these (both size M) :
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...phite-heather/
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tekno-rc...ill-mesh-back/
I'd like to order them in my LHS in France but they asked me for the reference numbers.

Thanks
Hi Shannow,

Part numbers for the above products are:

T-Shirt: TKRTS06M
Hat: TKRHAT08SM

Let us know if you need any further info!
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:15 PM   #1569
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Hi Shannow,

Part numbers for the above products are:

T-Shirt: TKRTS06M
Hat: TKRHAT08SM

Let us know if you need any further info!
Great ! Thanks
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:06 PM   #1570
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Originally Posted by coombes View Post
Hey guys I've got a ?? For you all since all mighty tekin rx8 gen 2 esc decided to die on me at first round off qf on the weekend cost me weekend racing so I had sit watch
So instead buying a other tekin esc what is best fit for a other esc that is in the high range like the tekin that can fit the tekno eb48
I feel for you.....I've had several Tekin's let out the magic smoke over the past few years. Everyone of them was due to the posts loosening, and touching the one beside it. There was a random case breakage, but I think that really was a fluke. I mount all of my ESC's on Kyosho Zeal gel, and don't wreck any more than the average guy, but they still keep going poof!

I think the post design is an inherent weak link. They're rather tall, take a lot of bending load at times, and the little nubbin that holds them in the PCB is only 2mm diameter, by a little over 2mm tall. The posts move back and forth, creating little micro fractures, which increases resistance....which creates more heat.....which makes even more movement......which creates more heat......eventually, it just lets go.

I'm going to do a little custom mod on the one Tekin I have left, and make a custom set of short posts, maybe even small ferrules, that I'll use, and solder the wire pigtails right on the board. That should take the stress off of that joint, and hopefully make them last longer.... I like how they perform, but man, Tekin really needs to step it up in the durability dept. though.

In the meantime, I'm trying out an Orion Vortex R8.1 Pro, to see if it lasts any longer. It's got a nice aluminum case, and the programming box is way more convenient than needing a separate device to use the Hotwire. Downside is the size...the ESC is smaller than the Tekin, but it has an external capacitor bank, and a friggin' huge power / set button switch. There's no good way to mount it in the Tekno without a little modification...

I posted a few days ago to see if anyone had mounted one in their Teknos, but didn't get much good info. I tried several different configurations over the weekend, and came up with one that is very tidy. I had to lengthen the switch leads, so I could mount it on the receiver box, but it wasn't a big deal at all..... I used some old servo extension wires I had laying around, but I'm going to get some 4-conductor 22 ga. flat ribbon cable for when I do my buddy's ET and EB48.3

Here's a picture of what I ended up with......I think it turned out pretty nice.

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Last edited by Stubbs; 05-02-2016 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:09 PM   #1571
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You could also go with a Hobbywing Xerun XR8..... HW makes the Orion ESC, it has the same friggin' huge switch, but the leads are a bit longer, so you can mount it over by the battery tray with no modifications. If you google "hobbywing xr8 in tekno eb48", a number of good images come up.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:21 PM   #1572
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Thanks stubb
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:20 PM   #1573
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Does anyone run uni steer joint on bump lose dusty track what you think be worth doing
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:38 PM   #1574
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Does anyone run uni steer joint on bump lose dusty track what you think be worth doing
If you find the car doesn't roll enough, or bounces too much on throttle, then the universals can be quite helpful. They're not for every surface and driving style, but bumpy is a prime reason for trying them as a tuning option.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:09 PM   #1575
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Does anyone run uni steer joint on bump lose dusty track what you think be worth doing
I club race regularly at 2 different tracks: an outdoor, rough, medium grip track and a highly groomed, smooth indoor track (can be loose to high grip at times).

Initially, I did find the universals to have an advantage on the outdoor, rough track. In general, the car felt more connected to the track surface both on throttle and off with the universals, whereas the on throttle traction was slightly sacrificed running CVD's (couldn't get on the throttle as hard with the CVD's).

Initially running the universals on the smooth indoor track, my lap times went down slightly. Putting the CVD's back in, brought my lap times back up. The car just seemed a little more sluggish or too hooked up in the rear with the universals.

So, the easy solution here would be to swap back and forth for each track. And while I built up 2 complete sets of hubs to make the swap 'easier', it still was more work that I felt like doing.

Add to that, the universals wear slightly better. The rolling pins in a universal vs. the sliding pin on a CVD appears to also reduce surface wear as it frees up the mechanical bind.

As a result of wanting to do less work from track to track AND reducing maintenance (not having to service the CVD pins and barrels), I now run the universals at both tracks. To get my lap times back up on the indoor track, I was able to change the front sway bar (one step smaller: 2.4mm to 2.3mm). As it turned out, the smaller sway bar had little to no effect on the performance at the outdoor track. Yet, if it did, changing a sway bar is less work than swapping universals for CVD's.

Jim
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