RC Matt

Well I saw that krhodes12 was running the vented shocks too. Is is just the cap that is different or is there more to it? Also what advantages do vented shocks have over unvented/stock shocks?

Dan.J

iTrader: (21)

The stock setup is a vented build, your aluminum caps that came with your kit and I assume you used have a hole in the side of the cap and and tiny hole at the top, so If you built by the book with those caps you are running the vented setup.

Dan.J

iTrader: (21)

X3

RokleM

iTrader: (33)

Some are experimenting with cutting part of the hingepin arm in the middle.

Tampagoalie

iTrader: (1)

There's a "how to" video on this on the Tekno website.

skyrc6

iTrader: (12)

Noted, I'll start with 14t pinion

Ah, I see, I forgot about the gear diff ratio. I don't know a lot about it, are there any good guides out there that explains that kind of stuff in details?

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

I haven't seen a how to on Tekno's site about cutting the arms yet.
However, one of my videos covers what and where to do this if you want to. It is part of my tips tricks and techniques videos that I've been doing with my ET48.3 build. Almost everything will directly apply to the EB48.3 (and most of the other vehicles) as well.

+ YouTube Video

justpoet

iTrader: (16)

The first way to build is emulsion. It is called this because the shock fluid forms an emulsion with air bubbles when used, and the air bubbles compress to allow the shock shaft into the shock when it works. Emulsion typically works best when you want the vehicle to land like a wet rag and stick to the track, but not really great with huge jumps or lots of bumps. This is fairly common for smoother indoor and smaller jumps or smaller vehicles. The build consists of using the bleeder screw (composite shock caps required for emulsion build) out with a full shock to push the shock shaft up and in, seal it, then when you pull the shaft back out it sucks air in and stays as that emulsion mixture. There is no bladder in an emulsion build.

The second type is the "standard" build. So called because it requires nothing special, and is how most 10th scale shocks are done. The shock is built with a bladder, allowing excess oil to bleed out when you seal the bladder to the shock body by screwing the cap down. The bladder and the compressed air in the cap provide a rebound force, that shouldn't change, but is fairly strong at the top of the stroke when all of the air is compressed, making it have a progressive feel. These are generally the best for hard big landings as the extra force will help soak up the end of the landing as well as only make the start of the rebound quicker and stiffer, so your car can get back to handling again.

These are also the most common for bashers, not only because of big jump landing, but also because the whole system stays sealed, so requires the least amount of maintenance unless you blow a shock.


The third type of shock build is the "vented" build. The shock builds exactly the same as "standard", but there is a vent hole at the top of the shock cap so the bladder does all of the rebound work and doesn't also compress air. This gives a much more linear feel to the shock and is often used on faster moving shocks or on bumpy tracks to allow the vehicle tires to not pop up off of every bump it hits. On the plastic caps, this can be done by either drilling straight up the top (to the bushing hole), or through the bleeder screw hole. On the AL caps, the hole goes into the bushing area. This helps keep extra dirt from getting in there and affecting shock performance.


Most vehicles work best with the vented build, though the truggy is often built standard due to the longer arms and higher weight of the vehicle, with larger tire patch also working the foams more before the shock has to work.

Tampagoalie

iTrader: (1)

My bad, Poet. I had watched your video and forgot where I saw it. Your vids are much appreciated!

RC Matt

I'm running my diffs stock so 5/5/5 (f/m/r). What can I do to make it drive easier? I would like it to turn easier so what should I get?

Tbyrne1976

iTrader: (6)

It depends what you mean by "turn easier". If you want more turn in on entry, you should go lighter in the rear. Maybe try 3. This will also give more rear traction in corners. If you need more steering on exit, you might try thicker in front. Maybe try 7. I always like running 5/5/3 or 5/7/3 depending on the track. Hope that helps.

snwchris

iTrader: (8)

I've always liked 7-7-5 or even 7-7-4

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

7-7-5 is stock and works well for me. I'm experimenting with ptrc 10-10-7. Too, it depends on the type of track. Generally, loose track, lower wt diff oils, hard packed with more grip, higher wt oils.

werner sline

ok I saw the vid too. good idea, mugen made this on their front arm.

but I broke them before the dust could even reach the hingepin !

RC Matt

Ok well I'll try out 7 in the front and Gstorm777 what motor are you running?