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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-02-2016, 01:28 PM   #1426
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.

Thanks! Is there any concern with breakage since the tabs on the C and D blocks aren't engaging the chassis as much, or at all?
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Old 04-02-2016, 02:52 PM   #1427
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.


Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
How about the Jconcepts finisher wing? That looks like it is plastic. I am not a great driver so I do crash a few times per race. So I should prolly stay away from lexan for now. But does the jc wing help with handling in a positive way?
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:12 AM   #1428
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Does anyone run a clear lexan wing like the bittydesign
Or proline trifecta? How durable are they? Are they pretty thick?
I run the ProLine Trifecta clear wing, its pretty thick and durable.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:09 PM   #1429
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Hello all! I just ordered my kit so it will be here within the week. Upgrading from the rc8.2e. My brother wants to get into the novice buggy scene so I capitalized on that scenario and viola! EB48.3 on the way. Is there anything you guys would suggest on the new build?

Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.

Last edited by Cuebulon; 04-03-2016 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 04-04-2016, 04:01 AM   #1430
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Hello all! I just ordered my kit so it will be here within the week. Upgrading from the rc8.2e. My brother wants to get into the novice buggy scene so I capitalized on that scenario and viola! EB48.3 on the way. Is there anything you guys would suggest on the new build?

Edit: I will be running with a Tekin gen 2 ESC and the Tekin T8 2050KV. I mainly run on a large open track, usually pretty loamy, with a few tight spots throughout.
The Tekno Aluminum servo horn is basically the only thing needed.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:24 AM   #1431
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For all the guys asking me about the shims used to raise the rear trans, 3DGY has them for sale in 2 different sizes. 1.5mm and 2.5mm. Start with 1.5mm and adjust from there. When you add the shim, make sure you change your C and D inserts

C = 1 dot down
D = 2 dot down
Also run the inner rear camber link in 2 hole or lower
so basically lower everything 1 spot

Link to the shims https://www.3dgydesigns.com/collections/frontpage
Quote:
Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
What do you gain by spacing it up? It seems like raising the whole assembly up would not have a big effect on handling. Can you not run the C and D inserts in those positions without raising the trans?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.
I looked on the website, and it shows a set of shims on the front end as well. Are folks using them front and rear?

Also, what's with the trimmed section on the arms in the photo?
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:09 AM   #1432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
The goal with this is to shim the diff up, while keeping the arms and links close to the positions they were in before. What this does is increase the dogbone plunge as the suspension compresses, which supports the rear end better when power is being applied (i.e. corner exit, sweepers, etc). Overall rear grip is increased which makes the car easier to drive and more predictable.


Yes, a lot of guys including me have been running them even on Truggy. It's definitely personal preference and based on your driving skills because if you crash enough they will end up cracking. Using the wicker-bill and dremeling the corners smooth goes a long way to making the wing last longer. They make a noticeable performance difference, letting the car stay flatter and rotate more easily. As I said it's personal preference and a tuning aid, plastic wings still have their place for sure.
Carter hit the nail on the head on both answers. I personally have the JConcepts Hybrid wing but I'm not going to use it for a few weekends. I want to get used to driving 8th scale again and get all those brain farts out of the way with the stock wings. Once I get that all out of my system, I'll throw the JC Wing on both ebuggy and nitro buggy.
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:13 AM   #1433
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Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
I looked on the website, and it shows a set of shims on the front end as well. Are folks using them front and rear?

Also, what's with the trimmed section on the arms in the photo?
That's actually my car he used

When Mike made the shims, he was thinking pro-actively and made them so they would fit the front as well. We're not using them on the front yet, but it's something that will get tested for sure.

The only difference between the front one and rear one is the front one is not quite a long to accommodate the kickup in the front end. You can use the front one in the rear if you like.

As far as the arms...We've been dremelling away the middle of the arm on all of our cars. This makes the car/truck land better off the jumps and just gives an overall more plush feeling.
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Old 04-04-2016, 06:22 AM   #1434
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
The Tekno Aluminum servo horn is basically the only thing needed.
Correct.

I would also recommend the TiNi shock shafts, the delrin shock inserts, Pink Front Springs, Red Rear springs, 2.3 and 2.5 sway bars (for front and rear).

That will give you the common springs, along with 1 step up and 1 step down on the sway bars (kit is 2.4).
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:49 AM   #1435
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What exactly does going to the .2 hubs and blocks do for a .3? I get that you get more steering but how does it get more steering. Also what's the downside. My track it a rough outdoor often dry and dusty do I would love some more steering. I have the parts just like to understand the changes before I Make em
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:45 AM   #1436
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Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
The Tekno Aluminum servo horn is basically the only thing needed.
is one horn pretty much universal for all of the ebuggy builds?
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:16 AM   #1437
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Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
is one horn pretty much universal for all of the ebuggy builds?
We just released a new one that has two holes rather than the original with the single hole as well uses M3 screws for both the clamping and mounting screws

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5253b...p-double-hole/

Here's the product description:
-------------------------------------------------------
The Tekno RC Aluminum Servo Horns were designed to minimize forces transmitted back to the servo spline. It utilizes a bottom mount design that, as opposed to a top mount, lowers the leverage point. This means your servos will be protected better to keep you in the race.

There are two mounting positions to fine tune your application. A hefty M3 locking screw ensures the servo horn will never come loose again. The M3 screw is also easy to tighten down compared to the smaller M2 screws that easily strip out on other servo horns. Use TKR1325 (M3x14mm flathead screw) for mounting the steering linkage to your Tekno RC vehicle. Use thread locking compound on all metal-to-metal connections.

These were designed specifically for the Tekno RC line of vehicles, but they can be used in most other applications as well.

**We strongly recommend using the inside (short) mounting hole for use in Tekno RC vehicles. This will make the steering response smoother and also protect your servo better.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:36 PM   #1438
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
Thanks! Is there any concern with breakage since the tabs on the C and D blocks aren't engaging the chassis as much, or at all?
There haven't been any issues, the spacers are only 1.5-2.5mm thick so there is still quite a bit of engagement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapjack View Post
How about the Jconcepts finisher wing? That looks like it is plastic. I am not a great driver so I do crash a few times per race. So I should prolly stay away from lexan for now. But does the jc wing help with handling in a positive way?
I've never tested the JConcepts wing, but I choose to run the Pro-line Trifecta wing for its adjustable wickerbills. It holds up especially well on big blown out outdoor tracks because its easier to make bad mistakes on low grip. Normally only indoors I'll put the lexan wing on for more rotation.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:45 PM   #1439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubbs View Post
I looked on the website, and it shows a set of shims on the front end as well. Are folks using them front and rear?

Also, what's with the trimmed section on the arms in the photo?
Just like Bob said, I'm guessing they made them in case it works well on the front end too. Definitely something to test.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonfueled View Post
What exactly does going to the .2 hubs and blocks do for a .3? I get that you get more steering but how does it get more steering. Also what's the downside. My track it a rough outdoor often dry and dusty do I would love some more steering. I have the parts just like to understand the changes before I Make em
The .3 spindles/caster blocks are a trailing axle design, so the axle is positioned behind the line of where the spindle rotates. This smooths out the steering over its travel, which also makes driving the car on very bumpy or rutted tracks easier. So with the .2 parts you would have more steering, but at the cost of some stability. Most of the team uses the .3 parts and tunes in more steering with link changes, sway bars, diff oils, etc for the best of both.
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Old 04-05-2016, 06:09 PM   #1440
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Never mind... Seems fine after assembly
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Last edited by Slapjack; 04-05-2016 at 08:24 PM.
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