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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 02-01-2016, 04:36 PM   #1171
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
I run 18t on a 2050kv tekin setup, probably very similar to a 19t on 1900kv. I feel it's got plenty of low end and plenty of high end... Temps are also generally under 180 depending on ambient heat.
How long is your straight and do you think that 18t would be a good starting point or should I go up to 19t?
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:13 PM   #1172
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I run 18t 1900 everywhere with current limit around 40-50% I'm just used to the feel more than anything, would only go up to a 19t if I was just getting beat down the straight
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:17 AM   #1173
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Well I guess I'll just figure out what the people at my track are running.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:13 AM   #1174
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I believe most run a 19t, but a lot do run the 18t including myself. I've even seen some run 17t. Start with 18, but keep the others on hand in case you feel you need more or less.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:56 AM   #1175
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How long is your straight and do you think that 18t would be a good starting point or should I go up to 19t?
I run a 19t. I don't change it out based on the track.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:13 PM   #1176
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Anyone experimented with lower rear diff fuild? 3000? I drove a buddies EB48.3 today and it was alot easier to drive than mine. One of the only differences was lighter rear diff fluid. I was going to change it over but I read the JQ setup book and it said it would have the opposite effect. Make the car harder to drive. I'm currently running 7-5-5.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:36 PM   #1177
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yes, I have been running 3k and just put in 2k to try out. At the moment I 7/7/2 but have not been able to run it yet.
When I was running 3k I had 7/5/3. It seemed to work well, the only issue I had was on-power push. Of course there are many other set up adjustments to help.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:19 PM   #1178
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Regarding pinions, I've been running 18t on the 1900kv motors on 4s everywhere. I've seen folks like Lutz also run 19t on tracks like DNC. It is more about throttle feel than the straight in most cases. On that same DNC track last year there were also successful team drivers running 17t pinions on the 1900kv motors because it made several of the jumps a lot easier for them to hit at the right speeds (to not overdo it). All 3 should work out fine for you, though 18t is where I would suggest starting with either the 1900 or the 2050 in the EB, and then go up if the track layout is flowing and temps are good, or you find it easier to handle the throttle that way.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:22 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Anyone experimented with lower rear diff fuild? 3000? I drove a buddies EB48.3 today and it was alot easier to drive than mine. One of the only differences was lighter rear diff fluid. I was going to change it over but I read the JQ setup book and it said it would have the opposite effect. Make the car harder to drive. I'm currently running 7-5-5.
Diff fluids tend to feel different based on the type of surface as well. Lower diff fluids tend to be easier to drive when a track is really loose and blown out and the car isn't leaning way too much, rewarding smooth drivers who don't want to break the wheels loose. Higher diff fluids tend to be easier to drive and more stable when the surface is more smooth or higher traction, and easier to drift with.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:27 PM   #1180
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New paint by Mels Shells. super stoked to get it on the track at Motorama 2016. Bonus pic of the big brother.


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Old 02-03-2016, 05:56 AM   #1181
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Diff fluids tend to feel different based on the type of surface as well. Lower diff fluids tend to be easier to drive when a track is really loose and blown out and the car isn't leaning way too much, rewarding smooth drivers who don't want to break the wheels loose. Higher diff fluids tend to be easier to drive and more stable when the surface is more smooth or higher traction, and easier to drift with.
speaking of diff fluids, what can one expect when keeping the same ratio but increasing the number? for example if I was running 7/7/3, what would the effect be if it was changed to 10/10/6? The ratio is the same but thicker.
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:24 AM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
speaking of diff fluids, what can one expect when keeping the same ratio but increasing the number? for example if I was running 7/7/3, what would the effect be if it was changed to 10/10/6? The ratio is the same but thicker.
More stability, pulls over small bumps and track imperfections better, basically makes the car easier to drive provided you have enough traction for the thicker diff oils. Down side to thicker diffs is that you lose a little rotation in the corners, but there are other ways to get that back.

Keeping the same ratio and going up or down on thickness depending on the traction can be a very useful change for adapting to traction levels without changing the feel of your car very much.
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:38 PM   #1183
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Anyone using any other shock springs other than Tekno? looking for a full kit of option springs...
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:11 AM   #1184
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Originally Posted by SnotRkt View Post
Anyone using any other shock springs other than Tekno? looking for a full kit of option springs...
Look on the first page of the EB48 thread there is a big chart of all compatible springs.

Tekno RC EB48 Thread
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:54 PM   #1185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Anyone experimented with lower rear diff fuild? 3000? I drove a buddies EB48.3 today and it was alot easier to drive than mine. One of the only differences was lighter rear diff fluid. I was going to change it over but I read the JQ setup book and it said it would have the opposite effect. Make the car harder to drive. I'm currently running 7-5-5.
I depends on traction and your driving style. If you are more of a "F1" style driver with low wheel spin, lower rear diff on lower traction will let the diff action work easier and let you rotate faster without the back end breaking loose, but if you are a drifter lower rear diff on low traction will cause you to diff out faster and wash out the back end. Where thicker rear would help driving with the back end drifting more stable of a slide.
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