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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-20-2016, 02:45 PM   #1126
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What is the point of running the mud guard?
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:31 PM   #1127
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Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
Yes. 2 easy solutions:

1.) Slightly trim the body to clear these screws (what I chose).

OR

2.) Use a counter sink bit on the mud guard and use a flat head screw instead of a button head.

Trimming the body just enough to clear the screw does not affect its strength nor longevity.
I trimmed my bodies also.
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Old 01-20-2016, 05:04 PM   #1128
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What is the point of running the mud guard?
Keeps the rear suspension cleaner and helps keep it free. Hinge pins, shocks etc.
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:21 AM   #1129
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Default Universals

Anybody know how long universals last before they need to be replaced?
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:07 AM   #1130
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Hey guys which lipo battery fits great in the Eb 48.3 buggy ??
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:13 AM   #1131
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Anybody know how long universals last before they need to be replaced?
I have little to no wear so far, but time will tell. I would expect good long term results.

Quote:
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Hey guys which lipo battery fits great in the Eb 48.3 buggy ??
The battery tray on the EB48 is quite robust and will allow you to use any standard 4s racing battery. As well, there is room to move the cells forwards or backwards for tuning purposes.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:57 AM   #1132
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Anybody know how long universals last before they need to be replaced?
I've been running the universals everywhere and they have been great👍🏻...As far as where there should not be much. However if you see for example see the pin slipping out it will be time to replace it.
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Old 01-21-2016, 01:40 PM   #1133
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Good deal on universal wear question? Did you all have to change your setups any when you changed to universals?
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:41 PM   #1134
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Good deal on universal wear question? Did you all have to change your setups any when you changed to universals?
For my track I did.....It made the car super ALIVE....I did change a few things.... Went 2.7 sway bars front and rear and pink front and red springs...a few other things but it was more track dependent.....gives the car A lot more roll. Definitely bump up your anti squat.....ran out of town at sdrc and universals ran fine....my local track is super loose and rough
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:09 PM   #1135
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What are the advantages of running the universal drive shafts? Also how do you guys clean your buggy?
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Old 01-21-2016, 05:24 PM   #1136
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Blow off with an air compressor. Then I use a small detailing brush and simple green and go over the car. Wipe off with a cloth. Then I spray the plastics and body with Maxima SC1.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:14 PM   #1137
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What are the advantages of running the universal drive shafts? Also how do you guys clean your buggy?
Universals excell when the track is rough or bumpy conditions. Unlike a cva they won't bind in a rut and will be free and roll through it. Maintaining them will be at a minimal. Also by freeing up the suspension you are allowing to let the car roll more. This is why you need to adjust you suspension such as thicker sway bars, heavier springs,and your anti squat. Now this an option part and is not meant to replace the cva. The cvs on smoother tracks will perform better because as they bind you will intern get more grip/ traction and stiffen your suspension.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:59 PM   #1138
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Is there supposed to be oil in the diff housing (not the casing) or are my diffs leaking?
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:12 AM   #1139
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Is there supposed to be oil in the diff housing (not the casing) or are my diffs leaking?
Unless overfilled or bad seal, the oil should remain in the diff.

Watch Ryan's recent video with a few additional recommendations: You can use a piece of sand paper to lightly take a small amount of material off the diff cup to ensure it's flat. Do not over tighten the screws at all, just snug is enough. Take a little oil and put it on both sides of the blue diff seal, and use a fresh one.
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Old 01-22-2016, 10:15 AM   #1140
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Just to reiterate what was mentioned above about the Universals vs. the CVA's, as well as provide some FYI, based on my recent experiences.

My local track is an outdoor, rough, medium traction track. The minimal testing (due to rain over the past 6 weeks) that I've done, made me feel that the Universals were an improvement over the CVA's with little to no other suspension changes.

2 1/2 hours north of me is Flowood R/C in Flowood, Mississippi: an indoor, relatively smooth, high speed, hard packed surface. There's a huge Tekno presence there, with some very fast local racers (both sponsored and not). To my knowledge, none of them have been running the Universals (just yet).

I've raced there twice with the Universals and practiced a third time where I wanted to go back to back (Universals to CVA's) to see the difference. Long story short, my top 5, 10 and 15 lap averages dropped just a little over 0.5 seconds going from Universals back to the CVA's. Track conditions changed very little (if at all) in between these 2 tests. No other suspension changes were made during this test. Just simply running a battery with Universals, then swapping them for CVA's the next battery. I was faster with the CVA's.

I'm not saying that I couldn't have made some other changes to quicken the car up on this track while running the Universal's. I simply chose the CVA's as the racers that I am chasing down have long been running CVA's and going plenty fast with them on this smooth, high speed surface.

I hope to do the same back to back testing back at my home outdoor track. Just can't catch a break in this weather pattern that we're experiencing down here.
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