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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-18-2016, 11:53 AM   #1111
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Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
I did the same with the steering servos (Radiopost 5005S) on EB and NB back in Dec. They didn't last a day. The steering assembly was free. In my situation, I'm thinking it was a servo problem. I switched to Proteks. Haven't had a chance to run since, but hopefully I will on 29th.
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:27 PM   #1112
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What should be the max temperature for my motor and esc. I run Tekin electronics.
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:25 PM   #1113
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What should be the max temperature for my motor and esc. I run Tekin electronics.
Tekin can tolerate heat but not to excess. My rule of thumb - if I can't put my hand on it after a main then it's too hot. Are you using a good heat Gun to measure? If so, then stay below 220.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:00 PM   #1114
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Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
I run my servo saver 1/2 turn from tight. I had a centering issue and was corrected with it tighter. It did it on both my eb and sct. If you trashed 2 servo's, 1. make sure the steering link is level if not using a tekno servo horn. 2. check your end points. if they are set too far it will trash them as well. I am now using the screw stops to make sure they don't go too far. I am running the 7955 and have ran the 1256 both with no issues.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:22 AM   #1115
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Also do you guys use body clips or Velcro?
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Old 01-19-2016, 06:43 AM   #1116
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I use velcro on the EB. I keep the body posts on and create the holes in the body, but do not use clips.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:44 AM   #1117
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Also do you guys use body clips or Velcro?
Velcro. Like the above said, I do create the holes but I velcro along the whole sides. It's faster, body last's a little longer and have never come off and I have done some spectacular cart wheels lol
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:25 PM   #1118
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I got some Velcro from Walmart and it seems to work great. I can hold the whole buggy off the ground with it so it seems like it will hold up pretty well. I will post pictures soon. I got the Scotch 3M Velcro if any of you guys were wondering.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:50 PM   #1119
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I use velcro and body clips. One fails the other will hold it on.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:19 PM   #1120
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I have a question for you guys... I run an EB48.3 and an SCT410.3, I love both, but I've found the SCT410.3 much easier to tune for track conditions. When I do something, it kind of reacts like I expect. However, with the EB48.3, my tuning has been tricker, I've still yet to get the buggy dialed into exactly how I like to drive. I'm considering selling the EB48.3 and purchasing an EB48SL to race this season. Does this seem like a good idea to anyone else, or maybe a bad idea?
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:36 PM   #1121
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I have a question for you guys... I run an EB48.3 and an SCT410.3, I love both, but I've found the SCT410.3 much easier to tune for track conditions. When I do something, it kind of reacts like I expect. However, with the EB48.3, my tuning has been tricker, I've still yet to get the buggy dialed into exactly how I like to drive. I'm considering selling the EB48.3 and purchasing an EB48SL to race this season. Does this seem like a good idea to anyone else, or maybe a bad idea?
It depends on the track......3 is more durable.

Depending on motor and circumstances both can be highly competitive. I like both but I do agree the sl is going to have a closer setup to the sct
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Old 01-20-2016, 07:25 AM   #1122
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I have a question for you guys... I run an EB48.3 and an SCT410.3, I love both, but I've found the SCT410.3 much easier to tune for track conditions. When I do something, it kind of reacts like I expect. However, with the EB48.3, my tuning has been tricker, I've still yet to get the buggy dialed into exactly how I like to drive. I'm considering selling the EB48.3 and purchasing an EB48SL to race this season. Does this seem like a good idea to anyone else, or maybe a bad idea?
IMO ... The sct and sl both have 12dg c blocks and will never be very similar to the 48.3 using the 15dg trailing set up on the front. Just too different . IF you like the 48.3 ( which I think you should ) find the same caster set up for the front of the buggy and you will find it much more similar to the truck . Not the same , but similar enough you get happy with it . Cheap enough to try for certain
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:26 AM   #1123
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Thanks guys, I'll give the caster adjustment a shot and see how that works out, unless the EB48SL goes on sale or something, then who knows what I'll do!
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:00 AM   #1124
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I've noticed that on the left rear of my buggy, the screw closest to the body that holds the mud guard on is rubbing against the body. There doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance there. Anyone else having this problem and if so, what have you done about it? Thanks
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Old 01-20-2016, 11:13 AM   #1125
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I've noticed that on the left rear of my buggy, the screw closest to the body that holds the mud guard on is rubbing against the body. There doesn't seem to be a lot of clearance there. Anyone else having this problem and if so, what have you done about it? Thanks
Yes. 2 easy solutions:

1.) Slightly trim the body to clear these screws (what I chose).

OR

2.) Use a counter sink bit on the mud guard and use a flat head screw instead of a button head.

Trimming the body just enough to clear the screw does not affect its strength nor longevity.
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