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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 01-17-2016, 02:52 PM   #1096
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Yeah when I step on the throttle the rear swings out. Track is a mixture of medium to high grip. I thought lowering the roll centre would help. I'll try it out aswell as some anti-squat. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:02 PM   #1097
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Tekno question : Is the ET48 still a good truggy (for bashing) despite the fact that the ET48.3 is out ? Would the "plain" ET48 be worth buying if say a good deal was to come along ?

Oops , just realized I asked a truggy question in the buggy thread. My mistake.

Last edited by DeathWish9; 01-17-2016 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:21 PM   #1098
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Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:46 PM   #1099
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Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Yeah when I step on the throttle the rear swings out. Track is a mixture of medium to high grip. I thought lowering the roll centre would help. I'll try it out aswell as some anti-squat. Thanks for the reply.
No problem, I think I ran into the same issue as you... I did some suspension changes and it was a lot better. I also lengthened my rear turnbuckle for more stability.... I am currently testing a different shock piston 6x1.5 for a smoother transition...I felt the 4x1.8 had too much pack for me. I will post how it handles differently.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:52 PM   #1100
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Originally Posted by DeathWish9 View Post
Tekno question : Is the ET48 still a good truggy (for bashing) despite the fact that the ET48.3 is out ? Would the "plain" ET48 be worth buying if say a good deal was to come along ?

Oops , just realized I asked a truggy question in the buggy thread. My mistake.
The ET48 will still be a competitive car for racing and bashing still. The suspension foundation of the .1 and .3 are very similar.......The .3 has more adjustability with the hinge pins along with the trailing spindles for smoother turning.(more for racing)..... Both of the car's durability is second to none.
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:58 PM   #1101
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Originally Posted by intensemojo View Post
Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
On my Eb48.3 I fully tighten the servo saver then loosen 3 turns. On my NT48 I run it pretty tight.(I run the MKS 599 servo and I love it).. I wouldn't go pass 5 turns because then you will be having other issues...Make sure there is no bind in your steering ....binding will cause the servo to work more than it has too. Also the new servo horns that tekno just released will be easier on your servo by using the inner hole...hope this helps..
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Old 01-17-2016, 03:59 PM   #1102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJH 22 View Post
The ET48 will still be a competitive car for racing and bashing still. The suspension foundation of the .1 and .3 are very similar.......The .3 has more adjustability with the hinge pins along with the trailing spindles for smoother turning.(more for racing)..... Both of the car's durability is second to none.
Excellent. Thank you.
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:27 PM   #1103
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Originally Posted by CJH 22 View Post
On my Eb48.3 I fully tighten the servo saver then loosen 3 turns. On my NT48 I run it pretty tight.(I run the MKS 599 servo and I love it).. I wouldn't go pass 5 turns because then you will be having other issues...Make sure there is no bind in your steering ....binding will cause the servo to work more than it has too. Also the new servo horns that tekno just released will be easier on your servo by using the inner hole...hope this helps..
Inner hole. Got it. Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:59 PM   #1104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJH 22 View Post
No problem, I think I ran into the same issue as you... I did some suspension changes and it was a lot better. I also lengthened my rear turnbuckle for more stability.... I am currently testing a different shock piston 6x1.5 for a smoother transition...I felt the 4x1.8 had too much pack for me. I will post how it handles differently.
Yeah I've also lengthened the rear link. It helped calm the car down alot. Just need a little more traction now.
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:13 PM   #1105
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Question, has anyone ran sct motor in a eb48.3? If so is there a big difference from 1/8 motor set up to a 1/10 for indoor racing?
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Old 01-18-2016, 04:08 AM   #1106
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Question, has anyone ran sct motor in a eb48.3? If so is there a big difference from 1/8 motor set up to a 1/10 for indoor racing?
I run a T8i in my EB48.3 which is in between a Pro4HD and T8, with a 3600mAh battery on a smaller indoor track and its great. It feels more nimble than running it full weight.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:18 AM   #1107
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Question, has anyone ran sct motor in a eb48.3? If so is there a big difference from 1/8 motor set up to a 1/10 for indoor racing?
If you are talking about the Pro4 Hd 4300 on 2s ? They run too hot in my superlite Eb48.3 for sure. I switched over to T8i 1950 and smaller 4600 mah 4s lipo and now the run time is about 12/14 min,temp is around 110 after 7 min main.
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Last edited by Lowe's48; 01-18-2016 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:38 AM   #1108
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Originally Posted by ASTPRES66 View Post
Question, has anyone ran sct motor in a eb48.3? If so is there a big difference from 1/8 motor set up to a 1/10 for indoor racing?
Yes , there is a big difference. If you have to run 2s , its going to be harder on the electronics than sc trucks are. You will need a fan on the motor , you will have to gear low , and you will have to watch things . Temps around 160 to 180 are going to happen if you have a big trigger finger and some close racing .
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:20 AM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intensemojo View Post
Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
I personally run my servo saver tighter than that, with almost no saver action for a more precise feel. If you're having an issue with servos going there may be another issue but loosening the saver would definitely help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJH 22 View Post
On my Eb48.3 I fully tighten the servo saver then loosen 3 turns. On my NT48 I run it pretty tight.(I run the MKS 599 servo and I love it).. I wouldn't go pass 5 turns because then you will be having other issues...Make sure there is no bind in your steering ....binding will cause the servo to work more than it has too. Also the new servo horns that tekno just released will be easier on your servo by using the inner hole...hope this helps..
True, check for binding for sure. Just a note on the servo horn, the inside hole also has the advantage of smoothing the car out around center (less twitchy) in addition to being easier on your servo.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:25 AM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intensemojo View Post
Blew through two Hitec servos this week. Luckily both are covered by warranty. Moving on to a Futaba 9352.

My question is related to the servo saver. I've got three turns out as a the manual describes, are you guys doing anything different?
What servo horn are you using? If your link between the servo horn and steering rack is not close to level it can put extra stress on the servo.
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