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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-30-2015, 06:50 PM   #991
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Took my .3 out for the first time today running box stock. I found it very loose so I changed the ride height from 27mm/29mm to 25mm/26mm and it helped a little but the rear end was still nervous and unpredictable. What do you suggest setup wise that I change? Only thing I can think of is that with the Mugen I'm coming from I always ran 0 rebound. I built the .3 as the manual says with about 15mm. I am thinking of trying 0. Anything else I can do? Track is on the loose side but the Mugen was steady and predictable. The Tekno isn't at the moment.
Thanks for any help.
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Old 12-30-2015, 09:24 PM   #992
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Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Took my .3 out for the first time today running box stock. I found it very loose so I changed the ride height from 27mm/29mm to 25mm/26mm and it helped a little but the rear end was still nervous and unpredictable. What do you suggest setup wise that I change? Only thing I can think of is that with the Mugen I'm coming from I always ran 0 rebound. I built the .3 as the manual says with about 15mm. I am thinking of trying 0. Anything else I can do? Track is on the loose side but the Mugen was steady and predictable. The Tekno isn't at the moment.
Thanks for any help.
I had this same thing happen to me. I lengthened the rear turnbuckles. All the way in on the hub. The shock tower and further in on the hub to b or a. Also I did lower the rear shock oil and I personally liked it more. I have got a pretty solid set up but I'm running the universal driveshafts. So did some other changes and the car is awesome!!!
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Old 12-31-2015, 01:33 AM   #993
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Awesome. I will have a play with the rear turn buckles next time I am at the track. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 12-31-2015, 06:16 AM   #994
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My experience with this buggy has been more rear toe and thinner rear sway bar to tighten up the rear. Maybe a little thinner diff oil . Rear toe really plants the rear on this thing. you could also try less antisquat to get the rear more reactive.
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:43 AM   #995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Took my .3 out for the first time today running box stock. I found it very loose so I changed the ride height from 27mm/29mm to 25mm/26mm and it helped a little but the rear end was still nervous and unpredictable. What do you suggest setup wise that I change? Only thing I can think of is that with the Mugen I'm coming from I always ran 0 rebound. I built the .3 as the manual says with about 15mm. I am thinking of trying 0. Anything else I can do? Track is on the loose side but the Mugen was steady and predictable. The Tekno isn't at the moment.
Thanks for any help.
Having your rear ride height higher than the front is causing less weight transfer to the rear on power. Try setting your ride height equal, see how that feels. Then try going to 3.5 rear toe.
You should be what your looking for.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:45 AM   #996
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getting my first tekno next week. Very excited!

Any tips on my initial build?
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:02 PM   #997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOE View Post
Having your rear ride height higher than the front is causing less weight transfer to the rear on power. Try setting your ride height equal, see how that feels. Then try going to 3.5 rear toe.
You should be what your looking for.
Will do. Thankyou
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:28 AM   #998
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Originally Posted by intensemojo View Post
getting my first tekno next week. Very excited!

Any tips on my initial build?
get a small cordless drill, hand driving gets old real quick


and a beer or 3
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Old 01-01-2016, 02:08 PM   #999
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Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
Common feeling on this buggy.
Shorten the front camber link to its shortest setting. Helps the front end feel more plush on the bench.....better yet it feels and is faster on the track, in my experience.
i found the same to be true,i also flipped the conical pistons over for a slightly quicker down stroke. thanks,happy racing.
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Old 01-03-2016, 08:20 PM   #1000
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Anyone had problems with the editable setup sheet? The words aren't printing.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:09 PM   #1001
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Also, is it normal for the camber/toe links to be so tight? I can barely budge them. Waiting for a Hudy turnbuckle wrench but still. Very tight.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:11 PM   #1002
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Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Also, is it normal for the camber/toe links to be so tight? I can barely budge them. Waiting for a Hudy turnbuckle wrench but still. Very tight.
You need to drill them in a few times. Lutz made a video on how to do it....frees them up 👍
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:17 AM   #1003
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Ok thankyou. Not keen on taking them off again, they were a pain to get on. lol But if it has to be done.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:04 AM   #1004
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Default steering camber amrs and a fresh build

Currently building my eb48.3 and after I mounted the front and rear to the chasis.....the axles angles are way off. Are the instructions with the 31mm and 24 mm for the steering/camber arms a guideline? Following the manual my steering is way off and only one wheel is turning an amount that would actually make the car turn. I know this will get fixed with adjusting the arms but I just found it strange the manual sets it up this way.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:13 PM   #1005
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Originally Posted by WoodyRacer View Post
Currently building my eb48.3 and after I mounted the front and rear to the chasis.....the axles angles are way off. Are the instructions with the 31mm and 24 mm for the steering/camber arms a guideline? Following the manual my steering is way off and only one wheel is turning an amount that would actually make the car turn. I know this will get fixed with adjusting the arms but I just found it strange the manual sets it up this way.
You should adjust to a setup sheet after the build. I believe there is one for the box stock setup at the back of the manual. The measurements during the build process are for ease of build and for a general guideline where things will hold together and be able to be adjusted from.

If you're steering is working different one way vs the other then you should make sure everything is on in the correct directions and especially that the ball ends aren't flipped on one side vs the other. It should go the same amount both directions. I'm assuming no servo issue/etc since this is during the build.
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