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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-26-2015, 01:10 PM   #976
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Has anybody been able to get the front nice and plush thru the entire length of the shock stroke?.Mine gets tight at the bottom,all the links are free and so on,im thinking the shafts are pushing against the guides towards the bottom of compression causing a binding feeling,there is no bent shafts or pins or binding of any type without the shocks on,are they to long?
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:26 PM   #977
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Originally Posted by loose unit View Post
Has anybody been able to get the front nice and plush thru the entire length of the shock stroke?.Mine gets tight at the bottom,all the links are free and so on,im thinking the shafts are pushing against the guides towards the bottom of compression causing a binding feeling,there is no bent shafts or pins or binding of any type without the shocks on,are they to long?
are you running any rebound?
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Old 12-26-2015, 07:42 PM   #978
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- Thicker diffs, such as 997. Helps a lot with stability and reducing the twitchy feeling the cars can have sometimes. Also improves forward drive and can help the car pull over small bumps better

Hopefully this helps!
Just wondering how 997 diffs affect your steering compared to 775? Do you lose off-power, but gain on-power, etc. or is it about the same?

I'm running Joe's setup, but I think I'm about to raise the front camber links on the tower. Anybody already done this? I'm wondering how dramatic of a change this will be?
Thanks.

Last edited by qstorm777; 12-26-2015 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:59 PM   #979
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Originally Posted by loose unit View Post
Has anybody been able to get the front nice and plush thru the entire length of the shock stroke?.Mine gets tight at the bottom,all the links are free and so on,im thinking the shafts are pushing against the guides towards the bottom of compression causing a binding feeling,there is no bent shafts or pins or binding of any type without the shocks on,are they to long?
It might be the shock boots bottoming out at full compression, are you using the stock setup?
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Old 12-27-2015, 12:14 AM   #980
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Just wondering how 997 diffs affect your steering compared to 775? Do you lose off-power, but gain on-power, etc. or is it about the same?

I'm running Joe's setup, but I think I'm about to raise the front camber links on the tower. Anybody already done this? I'm wondering how dramatic of a change this will be?
Thanks.
In general, if you thicken up your diffs while keeping the same ratio between them all (775 goes to about 997 or 10/10/7) the car will feel about the same but be more stable and easier to push, and may also pull better over small bumps in the right conditions. Doing this if you go from a higher bite track to a lower bite track will not produce these results however, as the diffs may be too thick and the car won't generate grip. All of the above assumes the car had grip to begin with and you're just trying to mellow out the response.

Raising your front links will lower the front roll center, causing the front of the car to roll more in the corners. On a typical outdoor 1/8th scale track, this will give more front grip when cornering, but might reduce corner speed if the front end rolls around too much instead of staying flat.

Hopefully this helps!
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Last edited by Carter Flotron; 12-28-2015 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:30 PM   #981
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Hi, just built my eb48.3 recently but i have been having some issues with fitting the battery. I use 2 2s batteries with a bullet connector bridge and bullet connectors from the ESC. On my xb8E i usually lay the batteries on its side with each of the batteries plugs facing out, the problem is when i do that with the eb48.3 plugs seem to stick out of the side of the car and also seems to snag on other at the other side.

Does anyone have any tips or pics on how to place the battery packs using 2 2s's. I have around 4 sets of the 2s 's so i would rather not have to change to one 4s.

Thanks for any help

Last edited by chamber; 12-27-2015 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 12-27-2015, 04:33 PM   #982
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...
Hopefully this helps!
Thanks. I might be having some sevo issues too. They might not be near as strong as they say. Going to change those out first and go from there.
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:44 PM   #983
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Originally Posted by loose unit View Post
Has anybody been able to get the front nice and plush thru the entire length of the shock stroke?.Mine gets tight at the bottom,all the links are free and so on,im thinking the shafts are pushing against the guides towards the bottom of compression causing a binding feeling,there is no bent shafts or pins or binding of any type without the shocks on,are they to long?
Common feeling on this buggy.
Shorten the front camber link to its shortest setting. Helps the front end feel more plush on the bench.....better yet it feels and is faster on the track, in my experience.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:54 AM   #984
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Originally Posted by chamber View Post
Hi, just built my eb48.3 recently but i have been having some issues with fitting the battery. I use 2 2s batteries with a bullet connector bridge and bullet connectors from the ESC. On my xb8E i usually lay the batteries on its side with each of the batteries plugs facing out, the problem is when i do that with the eb48.3 plugs seem to stick out of the side of the car and also seems to snag on other at the other side.

Does anyone have any tips or pics on how to place the battery packs using 2 2s's. I have around 4 sets of the 2s 's so i would rather not have to change to one 4s.

Thanks for any help
Post 260 in this thread shows them laying on top of each other.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:30 AM   #985
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Post 260 in this thread shows them laying on top of each other.
Thanks a lot
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Old 12-29-2015, 08:55 AM   #986
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Post 260 in this thread shows them laying on top of each other.
I had the same issue. Have a serpent ebuggy and it uses two 2S packs. I wanted to try the Tekno ebug - everything else I had was Tekno and the Serpent seemed to catch every rut on the track regardless of what I did. The thought and cost of buying two new 4S batteries delayed my purchase about two months. I eventually purchased two SMC 4S lipos.
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:47 AM   #987
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I had the same issue. Have a serpent ebuggy and it uses two 2S packs. I wanted to try the Tekno ebug - everything else I had was Tekno and the Serpent seemed to catch every rut on the track regardless of what I did. The thought and cost of buying two new 4S batteries delayed my purchase about two months. I eventually purchased two SMC 4S lipos.
When I first got my ebuggy, I ran 2 2s batteries for a race day. Each pack came off at different V's, and it didn't give me the warm fuzzy feeling, so I bit the bullet, and bought 2 4S batteries. The peace of mind was worth it.
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:21 PM   #988
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I'm thinking about getting one of these buggies. I would like to know how durable they are and how they handle on a dirt track. I would also like to know what setup you guys use. Also what other buggies do you think are good racers to look into.
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Old 12-29-2015, 07:44 PM   #989
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I'm thinking about getting one of these buggies. I would like to know how durable they are and how they handle on a dirt track. I would also like to know what setup you guys use. Also what other buggies do you think are good racers to look into.
The Tekno products are the most durable from all the ones I've tried. They respond well to tuning and they are a great platform. Stock setup is a good starting point but many have been using Joes wicked weekend setup as a good starting point and you can find on the Tekno website under setup sheets. As for other cars you will find many opinions but I believe Tekno is the best one out. They continue to innovate and improve constantly. I have always had a good experience with them.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:48 AM   #990
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I'm thinking about getting one of these buggies. I would like to know how durable they are and how they handle on a dirt track. I would also like to know what setup you guys use. Also what other buggies do you think are good racers to look into.
The original Tekno EB48 was my first 8th scale due to the design of it and having tried a few on the track. It survived my learning to drive it without any serious issues. They've since gotten better as far as handling goes and also gotten even more durable (they were already one of the most durable). One of the keys to this is that the Tekno is SOOOO tunable that it can fit any track or driving style. Nothing else handles quite as well on rough tracks due to the electric first design on the EB48 series and the new extra long shocks and suspension geometry.

Many like the Bornhorst setup, and the kit stock setup is also a good starting point to tune from on many tracks.
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