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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-13-2015, 08:22 PM   #901
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I didn't understand the explanation either. I did vented on mine
The kit comes with alum vented shock caps tkr6003. The caps have a vent hole in top of the cap. You can buy aluminum non-vented shock caps tkr6003b or buy the plastic shock caps (tkr6018). If you want emulsion shocks, you have to buy the plastic caps (tkr6018) and drill according to the manual. The plastic shock caps are standard by default, but you can drill them according to the manual to achieve vented or emulsion shocks.
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:09 AM   #902
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Thanks for the info guys. I now understand. Vented is default for this kit. The explanation had me confused. Hopefully I get to build them and finish the buggy off tomorrow. Pulled all the electrics out of my old car today.
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Old 12-14-2015, 03:07 AM   #903
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I love my Tekno EB48.3 on an outdoor bumpy track it definitely has the advantage over the rest of the field.
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Old 12-14-2015, 06:44 AM   #904
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Drove my upgraded 48.2 this weekend for the first time . Bumps and jumps are better , corner exit is better , but this car does give up the off power initial steering the 48.2 has . I cannot wait to get on a track with a groove and see how the new car feels then. I would imagine that's where its going to shine. It does seem less twitchy and more stable which I think will really pay off for me over 10 minutes
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:27 AM   #905
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Default Tekno RC How To Videos

Hello everyone!

We have decided to make a series of videos that will help everyone get the most out of their Tekno RC cars. One of the most frequent questions we have received is regarding the turnbuckles and what is the easiest method to build them. Here is a short video that will help you with that!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:31 AM   #906
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Drove my upgraded 48.2 this weekend for the first time . Bumps and jumps are better , corner exit is better , but this car does give up the off power initial steering the 48.2 has . I cannot wait to get on a track with a groove and see how the new car feels then. I would imagine that's where its going to shine. It does seem less twitchy and more stable which I think will really pay off for me over 10 minutes
Did you change to the 15deg. caster blocks? If so, going back to the 12, or even the 10 will improve initial turn in.
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:58 AM   #907
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Did you change to the 15deg. caster blocks? If so, going back to the 12, or even the 10 will improve initial turn in.
Yeah . I went to the trailing axle 15 Dg set up . I am going to be patient and drive the car a few more times , in more realistic conditions and decide then . The track was green , and the timing system wasn't on so I have no true comparison yet.
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Old 12-14-2015, 05:31 PM   #908
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Did you change to the 15deg. caster blocks? If so, going back to the 12, or even the 10 will improve initial turn in.
This, I had to go to the 10 degree front end from the 48.2 to get back enough initial turn for our 1/10th scale track. Now, this buggy is dialed and has a ton of on and off power steering for my likes. For some I am sure they would call my buggy a bit nervous and I kind of prefer it that way, small indoor track with quite a few 180 turns and fairly narrow lanes means you have to be able to rotate well and be able to get on the throttle quickly while doing so.

I finally broke something on my buggy, has only taken about forty battery packs to do so. I spent most of Saturday breaking in and setting up a new 22-3, grabbing the 48.3 to have some serious fun, it still puts a grin on my face when driving it.

The weekends are a mix of racers doing practice days and tweaking their setups and quite a few novices right down to kids having just bought a brand new short course and throwing it on the track the first time. At first I was always nervous heading out on the track with the smaller 1/10th scale and the beginners, always hate hitting a turned over buggy, so does the owners of said smaller vehicles. Lately, I have really been enjoying the ability to maneuver through a very packed field of varied skill sets, forces me to see better through periphery visuals and pick better lines to get through the scrum.

About the fourth battery pack I was launching off a very high speed step-down on our back straight, you hit it wide open on the 1/8th scales. Buggy was fully pegged and hauling butt when one of the short course blew the infield and just clipped my buggy as it was leaving the face of the step-down. That was the first time I have seen an 1/8th scale tumble the length of the straight, it was tumbling on it's left side for about thirty or forty feet before coming to a stop. One of the marshal goes over, gives it a visual inspection and says it all appears to be in one piece, tosses it down and in a few feet driving away it was obvious something was wrong. Turns out the rear-right shock shaft was bent! LOL, nearly eight pound vehicle tumbles from wide open along it's left axis, at least 15-18 full revolutions of pounding impacts on front and rear arms and shock towers and all that is damaged is a bent shock shaft

This buggy just rocks!

Two of the other guys on the track, one with a brand new Associated B83 or what ever it is called and one with the HB 1/8th scale were impressed, both admitted that would of likely been a $100.00 dollar crash with their buggies.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:05 PM   #909
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Anyone had a problem with the standard pistons being tight in the shock body? I've built all my shocks and they all rebound about the same. On one of the rears I can't get any rebound because the piston is tight.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:37 PM   #910
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Has anyone figured out a solution with using the Hudy 1/8 scale setup station. The shock towers are too tall and it interferes with the toe plate.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:45 PM   #911
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what weight did you guys achieve ?
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:16 PM   #912
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Anyone had a problem with the standard pistons being tight in the shock body? I've built all my shocks and they all rebound about the same. On one of the rears I can't get any rebound because the piston is tight.
Took the shock back apart and took a few little notches off the plastic rings that go in the bottom of the shock and it worked. Must have been a little bit pushing the ring off centre and into the shaft. Was able to achieve rebound. The hard bit was getting the silly screws that hold the bottom of the shock into the arm. What's wrong with a normal hex screw? For that matter why did Tekno make them left and right hand threads?
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Old 12-15-2015, 01:49 AM   #913
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Has anyone figured out a solution with using the Hudy 1/8 scale setup station. The shock towers are too tall and it interferes with the toe plate.
yeah its not a problem, all you have to do is reverse the way you mount the plates to the car.

on a normal car they attach like this:



on the shockzilla you have to mount like this:





it means that when you read off the camber angle you will have to look from this perspective:



and seeing as the toe plate is reversed, you will want it set on the + positive side in order for it to be - negative or toe out.
also for best results make sure your chassis is sitting on the 30mm blocks for consistent results.

hope that helps
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:28 AM   #914
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Anyone have a picture of one of these on corner weight scales ?
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:41 AM   #915
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Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Took the shock back apart and took a few little notches off the plastic rings that go in the bottom of the shock and it worked. Must have been a little bit pushing the ring off centre and into the shaft. Was able to achieve rebound. The hard bit was getting the silly screws that hold the bottom of the shock into the arm. What's wrong with a normal hex screw? For that matter why did Tekno make them left and right hand threads?
Normal screws can get clogged with dirt, a hex is easier to clean off to remove. We did left and right threads because as the shock moves it tries to unthread the shock screws. If we didn't do the left hand threads on that side it would slowly unscrew.
Check your retaining nuts for the top of the shocks, I bet the side opposite the left handed bottom screw has to be re-tightened more often than the other.
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