R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: MattDub
Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree10Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-09-2015, 10:51 PM   #871
Tech Adept
 
jason07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 221
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I posted this in the electronics section and I'm not getting much feedback.


I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.

I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.

I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)

Here is my setup

Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion

Any help would be appreciated
__________________
Agama A215E Hobbywing 1900KV and Xerun XR8
Agama A215 Bullitt B221
jason07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 11:31 PM   #872
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: N Cal
Posts: 283
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low.

The neutral width has nothing to do with getting your motor to produce torque. It is used to adjust when throttle\brake engages past neutral on your throttle trigger. Playing with this and making the number too small can mess up engaging brake and even mess with the initial positive throttle engagement. I do not have my buggy or Hot Wire in front of me but I believe for my M12S I settled on a setting of 9. At this setting my brake and reverse engages cleanly and the on throttle engagement was clean with out any odd hesitation. I had reduced the number to like 5 and reverse would usually not engage and had an odd hesitation just past neutral going into forward.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.

This setting does exactly what it sounds like, reduces the max amount of amps allowed to be put through the ESC. For most situations less is more, sounds odd but reducing power output can make the buggy easier to drive and be consistent and with your setup you should not be lacking any power. I have my current limiter set to 80 on my 2S setup and I am not lacking any grunt from a dead stop or out of the corners. On 4S you should be pulling pretty damn hard from a dead stop right to top speed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)

Never used Spektrum equipment but I am guessing this is just a setting to set how many packets of information is being sent and received in a given time frame. This should have no effect on acceleration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
Here is my setup

Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion

Any help would be appreciated

I don't run my buggy 4S, it is used on a small indoor clay track and is limited to 2S but what I have seen from others posting here, you should be using a pinion closer to 18 tooth with your setup and motor KV. I am sure Justpoet or some others will give you more specific advice so hold tight, they have a ton of experience on this chassis running 4S and I bet a couple even use Spektrum.


One other thing to test is your drive train being smooth and free of any odd friction. Remove the wheels and the pinion, place the car on a stand and test how smoothly the entire drive train rotates. Mine is butter smooth, as smooth as can be expected from the high drag rate of a 4 wheel drive buggy with three silicone filled diffs. Any odd friction will be pretty apparent.

Last edited by Fasttrak; 12-09-2015 at 11:37 PM. Reason: One other thought:
Fasttrak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2015, 11:37 PM   #873
Tech Adept
 
jason07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 221
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
The neutral width has nothing to do with getting your motor to produce torque. It is used to adjust when throttle\brake engages past neutral on your throttle trigger. Playing with this and making the number too small can mess up engaging brake and even mess with the initial positive throttle engagement. I do not have my buggy or Hot Wire in front of me but I believe for my M12S I settled on a setting of 9. At this setting my brake and reverse engages cleanly and the on throttle engagement was clean with out any odd hesitation. I had reduced the number to like 5 and reverse would usually not engage and had an odd hesitation just past neutral going into forward.





This setting does exactly what it sounds like, reduces the max amount of amps allowed to be put through the ESC. For most situations less is more, sounds odd but reducing power output can make the buggy easier to drive and be consistent and with your setup you should not be lacking any power. I have my current limiter set to 80 on my 2S setup and I am not lacking any grunt from a dead stop or out of the corners. On 4S you should be pulling pretty damn hard from a dead stop right to top speed.





Never used Spektrum equipment but I am guessing this is just a setting to set how many packets of information is being sent and received in a given time frame. This should have no effect on acceleration.





I don't run my buggy 4S, it is used on a small indoor clay track and is limited to 2S but what I have seen from others posting here, you should be using a pinion closer to 18 tooth with your setup and motor KV. I am sure Justpoet or some others will give you more specific advice so hold tight, they have a ton of experience on this chassis running 4S and I bet a couple even use Spektrum.
That's awesome information. I originally wanted an 18T pinion but the track manager said most people run a 16T. I will try it at the track tomorrow and see how it does. I can always buy an 17 or 18 and try it there.

I forgot to add that I can decrease the throttle expo to -20 and it has more "punch" off the line, but I would rather not do it like that. It does sound like I need a bigger pinion.

I knew what the current limiter was I just mentioned it so I could help anyone diagnose my setting dilemma. I will change it back to 80 or so before I drive it on the track.
__________________
Agama A215E Hobbywing 1900KV and Xerun XR8
Agama A215 Bullitt B221
jason07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 03:43 AM   #874
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 46
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Enjoying everything except the rod ends. They will be the death of me.
i didn't enjoy the rod end either.
EricM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 06:00 AM   #875
Tech Master
 
RokleM's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 1,484
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
It's always fun to have the newest and the best but I seriously doubt that if you had both the .2 and the .3 set up exactly and ran them back-to-back it would buy you any lower track times. My experiences so far running the 1/8th scale buggy against guys who are running chassis going back two and three generations of Mugen, Tekno and a few others is this, the fast guys are very good at chassis setup and are very good consistent drivers. If I was you I would not waste my money, I would buy more tires and batteries and spend more time perfecting your chassis setup and your driving skills.
Always an arguable point and personal preference. The .1 and .2 were very good vehicles, but the .3 took it to a new level. Joe's Wicked Weekend setup is a great starting point, and I've tuned the .3 to the point where I have no doubt I am pushing it faster and harder with more stability than I had in some of my best setups for the .2. It's a nobrainer for me.

At the end of the day, it's a personal choice of how happy you are, what financial situation you're in, and if it's logical to upgrade or sell and buy new.
__________________
- Eric G. -
Tekno EB48.3, NB48.3, ET48.3, NT48.3, Kyosho RB6, RT6
Sponsored by: TeknoRC, REDS Racing USA, Pro-Line Racing, Agency-Z, Krawl Off-Road
RokleM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 10:27 AM   #876
Tech Master
 
wittyname's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Hampton Roads
Posts: 1,888
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
That's awesome information. I originally wanted an 18T pinion but the track manager said most people run a 16T. I will try it at the track tomorrow and see how it does. I can always buy an 17 or 18 and try it there.

I forgot to add that I can decrease the throttle expo to -20 and it has more "punch" off the line, but I would rather not do it like that. It does sound like I need a bigger pinion.

I knew what the current limiter was I just mentioned it so I could help anyone diagnose my setting dilemma. I will change it back to 80 or so before I drive it on the track.
The info on expo is odd ... the more negative expo you have , the more delay you have. -5 should "hit harder" and much sooner than -20 .

If I were helping you at the track ,

we would reset the model on your radio.

get a 18 or 19 pinion

reset the rx8

re bind the rx8


set the Current limiter to 50%

and run the car. It should rip with those settings .... I think you may have gotten a bit lost in your changes and should start over tbh.
__________________
Josh W.

Don't forget ... Have fun , talk sh*$ with your buddies, and have fun.

I race so I can have people flip my car over ....
wittyname is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 11:46 AM   #877
Tech Addict
 
suzukipro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 732
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason07 View Post
I posted this in the electronics section and I'm not getting much feedback.


I just got my buggy up and running and this is my first time with the Tekin Hotwire setup. The car runs fine except it has no grunt down low and it takes a second or so to get going when it does.

I messed with the neutral width a bit but I don't know what will get me more grunt down low. I put the current limiter at 100 also. I just need a little schooling here.

I have a Dx4 pro and I changed the frame rate to 5.5 and I did re bind. (If that matters)

Here is my setup

Tekno eb48.3
Rx8
Tekin 1900kv
5000 mah 4s
HiTec 7950 servo
16T pinion

Any help would be appreciated
Also check your TH Punch on your Spektrum radio, this setting may be at odds with what you're trying to achieve with the ESC.
__________________
Eric
________________________________________________________________________
Tekno, XRAY, Team Associated & Traxxas Powered by SMC.
Innovative Hobbies Raceway, Flyin-High RC Track
suzukipro is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 03:23 PM   #878
Tech Adept
 
jason07's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 221
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Ok guys, I'll be honest with you on this deal.......I'm a dumbass.

When I was playing with the controller I inadvertently switched on the traction control. As soon as I turned it off, the car worked as usual.

Thanks for everyone's help. I learned some valuable info except none of it helped my dumbass. lol
__________________
Agama A215E Hobbywing 1900KV and Xerun XR8
Agama A215 Bullitt B221
jason07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 04:10 PM   #879
mkl
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 880
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

ha, thats funny, sounds like it is something I would do!
Glad to know the TC works. I never felt much of a difference with that feature on my DX3R Pro.
__________________
Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48, Tekno ET48, X-Ray 808E, TRCE Slash 4x4, Tamiya Lunchbox, Tamiya Frog, Slash 4x4, Axial Wraith
mkl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 05:45 PM   #880
Tech Elite
 
justpoet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NH, USA
Posts: 2,015
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
It's always fun to have the newest and the best but I seriously doubt that if you had both the .2 and the .3 set up exactly and ran them back-to-back it would buy you any lower track times. My experiences so far running the 1/8th scale buggy against guys who are running chassis going back two and three generations of Mugen, Tekno and a few others is this, the fast guys are very good at chassis setup and are very good consistent drivers. If I was you I would not waste my money, I would buy more tires and batteries and spend more time perfecting your chassis setup and your driving skills.
For the original EB48 to the EB48.2 I would agree with you. However the EB48.3 is quite drastically different for suspension geometry and is FAR more capable in almost all situations. I can push it harder while staying more stable and cut significant amounts off of my lap times with the EB48.3 compared to the older EB48.2, and I can also land things that I couldn't do safely with the old vehicle as well.
__________________
"We do not act rightly because we have virtue or excellence, but we rather have those because we have acted rightly. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." -Aristotle
My wallet supports: TeknoRC.com, NorCalHobbies.com, SMC, Tekin, and several tire/servo companies.
justpoet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 07:06 PM   #881
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Posts: 839
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
For the original EB48 to the EB48.2 I would agree with you. However the EB48.3 is quite drastically different for suspension geometry and is FAR more capable in almost all situations. I can push it harder while staying more stable and cut significant amounts off of my lap times with the EB48.3 compared to the older EB48.2, and I can also land things that I couldn't do safely with the old vehicle as well.
You all getting me pumped. Money race this weekend. EB48.3 built and setuped this week. Probably not good running a new car, but still. Just got body painted today - rush job - gotta run stock body. Looks like my other bodies won't get here by tomorrow. Usps sucks when u need them...lol. I'm getting pumped. Ready to see what this bug will do.
qstorm777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 08:10 PM   #882
Tech Regular
 
Sroufe7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brookings
Posts: 357
Trader Rating: 19 (95%+)
Default

Sounds very good! I will be racing the .3 for the first time this weekend!
Sroufe7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2015, 11:47 PM   #883
Tech Master
 
R1Joel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,189
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Ran into a little problem today while building. When I push the front arms down (Shocks not built yet) the screw the holds the rod end on hits the arms. What can I do? Or what did I do wrong?

R1Joel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2015, 01:15 AM   #884
Tech Master
 
werner sline's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,825
Default

are you sure that you will have so much droop ? try to put a shock to check the max droop you can actually get

If it still rub, cut some plastic out ! I did it on my mugen mbx7r eco to have maximum steering
werner sline is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2015, 03:49 AM   #885
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Posts: 839
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R1Joel View Post
Ran into a little problem today while building. When I push the front arms down (Shocks not built yet) the screw the holds the rod end on hits the arms. What can I do? Or what did I do wrong?

Normally, when you set the droop, the screw won't run. What some are doing and I did on this last build is turn the screw upside down so the nut and threads are on top. If you have extra washers, you could also add more washers up top.
qstorm777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:13 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net