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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-30-2015, 06:27 PM   #796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOELD View Post
this looks some what suspect....

edit: wont let me upload pic right now

[IMG][/IMG]
shouldnt that inner seal on the seal piece itself go all the way around?
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:49 PM   #797
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Default Rx8 Power Switch

I'm also curious as to where people who use RX8's put the power switch? On my 410.3, I have it on the side wall. I don't know that I like it there. The esc gets warm and my parma tape looses adhension if I mount it on the RX8. Just looking for a good spot. If the switch was a push button, I would mount it on the floor.
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:08 PM   #798
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I'm also curious as to where people who use RX8's put the power switch? On my 410.3, I have it on the side wall. I don't know that I like it there. The esc gets warm and my parma tape looses adhension if I mount it on the RX8. Just looking for a good spot. If the switch was a push button, I would mount it on the floor.
On the "motor" side of the ESC, Parma + shoegoo holds it well
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:49 PM   #799
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Ca glue right to the case or even better , remove switch and solder. 2 problems solved
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:01 PM   #800
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Originally Posted by wittyname View Post
Ca glue right to the case or even better , remove switch and solder. 2 problems solved
+1 for cut and solder.
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Old 12-01-2015, 02:34 AM   #801
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Originally Posted by Tbyrne1976 View Post
Savox 2274. Used to be a protek fan but had way too many issues with them. Customer service is great with protek but that doesn't help me out when my servo (and backup) goes out during the middle of a race day.
Thats kind of funny....that happened to me with savox, why i switched
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:27 AM   #802
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz View Post
On the "motor" side of the ESC, Parma + shoegoo holds it well
Intersting. Never tried using shoogoo. Guessing shoogoo goes between RX8 and parma. Don't want to cut switch out yet. I haven't had any problems with one yet. On my serpent, I found a good spot on side guards floor. I haven't found such a spot on Tekno yet.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:41 AM   #803
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Tekno did design a place for a switch. It is on the mud guard/radio tray. The top edge of the mud guard is not straight across, it has a small section that raises up slightly and has two support ribs molded into the plastic. The switch goes in-between the two ribs. Post #15558
Tekno SCT410 Thread
Having said that, I either cut off my switch or attach it to the side of the ESC.
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:45 AM   #804
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me View Post
Thats kind of funny....that happened to me with savox, why i switched
I've run most all of the above mentioned except the ProTek's.

Hitec - lasted a long time, but got more slop in gear train than others
Futaba (the "expensive" one 9352??) - one lasted 8 months, the replacement lasted a week - got the "jitters"
Savox - both the 12 series and the 22 series - over time, lose power

I am surprised ANY of these servos last with the abuse that we put them through. Think about going full speed down a straight away, turning just a bit too early and catching a pipe, yanking the steering. Especially with 1/8th scale servo savers and not wanting to run them too loose to get every bit of steering out of the car as we can, in an 8 or 10 pound missile.

While I have had luck with both Futaba and Savox replacing damaged servos, as mentioned, when it happens during a race, that is not all too helpful.

I look at servos as disposable now, which means run the cheapest of the ones that perform, keeping brand new spares in my box. If I can get a warranty replacement for a busted one, great. If not, it hurts less to throw away a servo that was under a 100 bucks, than one that is over 100 or even $150.

Savox fits this paradigm. They have enough speed and torque to compare to the higher dollar servos, but are the least expensive in most cases. When they have failed on me, it has simply been a loss of torque; a notable loss of steering performance. Still finished a race, but car was sluggish. Now I just check for torque on the bench periodically. Catch it before it happens.

Racing is abusive. Parts are going to wear. Just the cost of having high performance fun.
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Old 12-01-2015, 11:26 AM   #805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
Tekno did design a place for a switch. It is on the mud guard/radio tray. The top edge of the mud guard is not straight across, it has a small section that raises up slightly and has two support ribs molded into the plastic. The switch goes in-between the two ribs. Post #15558
Tekno SCT410 Thread
Having said that, I either cut off my switch or attach it to the side of the ESC.
Thanks. Thats exactly where I have it on the sct.
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Old 12-01-2015, 01:36 PM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbyrne1976 View Post
Savox 2274. Used to be a protek fan but had way too many issues with them. Customer service is great with protek but that doesn't help me out when my servo (and backup) goes out during the middle of a race day.
How recent? I was planning on getting the protek 170S
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Old 12-01-2015, 05:01 PM   #807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwduud View Post
I've run most all of the above mentioned except the ProTek's.

Hitec - lasted a long time, but got more slop in gear train than others
Futaba (the "expensive" one 9352??) - one lasted 8 months, the replacement lasted a week - got the "jitters"
Savox - both the 12 series and the 22 series - over time, lose power

I am surprised ANY of these servos last with the abuse that we put them through. Think about going full speed down a straight away, turning just a bit too early and catching a pipe, yanking the steering. Especially with 1/8th scale servo savers and not wanting to run them too loose to get every bit of steering out of the car as we can, in an 8 or 10 pound missile.

While I have had luck with both Futaba and Savox replacing damaged servos, as mentioned, when it happens during a race, that is not all too helpful.

I look at servos as disposable now, which means run the cheapest of the ones that perform, keeping brand new spares in my box. If I can get a warranty replacement for a busted one, great. If not, it hurts less to throw away a servo that was under a 100 bucks, than one that is over 100 or even $150.

Savox fits this paradigm. They have enough speed and torque to compare to the higher dollar servos, but are the least expensive in most cases. When they have failed on me, it has simply been a loss of torque; a notable loss of steering performance. Still finished a race, but car was sluggish. Now I just check for torque on the bench periodically. Catch it before it happens.

Racing is abusive. Parts are going to wear. Just the cost of having high performance fun.
I get it. The price to play can be quite expensive. Ive had really good luck with my protek's. I had one go bad, sent it back for a swap out. My 170's tho, haven't had a real problem. The only thing that i have had go bad was the bearing that the spine comes out of. It was getting a little sloppy from turning 4 million times. I swapped it with a mbx7r steering post bearing. Good as new. With savox, i have had so many go bad after 4-6 months. Don't get me wrong. I am by no means easy on my servos, but i picked up the good ones. Gears mostly but some got the jitters.
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Old 12-02-2015, 12:18 AM   #808
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Ordered mine yesterday. Can't wait to get it. Hopefully have it ready for next season.
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Old 12-02-2015, 06:03 AM   #809
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Default Diffs

Is everyone sticking with 7-7-5? Has anyone tried 7-7-4 or 7-7-3? If so, can you state how does it compare to 7-7-5?

Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:17 AM   #810
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I switch between 7-5-3 7-7-3 7-7-5. Depending on the track.
The 7-7-5 pulls hard out of the corners if the traction is there.
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