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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-14-2015, 09:41 AM   #676
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Before you completely disassemble the unit, disconnect the two outboard steering turnbuckles and see that each hub and the steering rack can make a complete sweep left to right. This might show you where the trouble is located and help you solve your problem.
Did you try this yet? Just want to be sure it's the spindle hitting the carrier and nothing else

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Originally Posted by jjl1 View Post
I had problems uploading the picture of the other side. Here it is.
There's nothing obvious in the picture that I can see. Can you tell me your other settings? Specifically- ackermann plate, front kick-up, arm sweep, and bumpsteer? Thanks!
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:27 PM   #677
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Yes Matthew, I did check that the spindles and steering rack make complete and smooth sweep. I have set the car up with the Ryan Lutz's Barnstormers setup.
http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/plu...5%20EB48.3.png
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Old 11-14-2015, 04:31 PM   #678
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Whoops wrong sheet
http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/plu...%207-26-15.png
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:14 PM   #679
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Any thoughts on the full option shock kit? I have a .1 and was thinking about upgrading them. Just trying to see if it's worth yet.
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:52 PM   #680
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Hey guys i have a question I just built my new eb48.3 and i noticed that the center diff is rubbing the motor mount. It looks like it is one of the screw heads but they are all the way down. I am asking only to see if there is anyone else that has had this problem. I fixed the problem by having to dremel down the motor mount just a little!
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:54 AM   #681
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Any thoughts on the full option shock kit? I have a .1 and was thinking about upgrading them. Just trying to see if it's worth yet.
Many things have changed since the original. Just replacing the .1 shocks with the .3 would cause quite a few issues as the rest of the suspension geometry wouldn't be updated. New towers, new arms, etc.

Basically, the original and .2 vehicles were great, but the .3 takes it to a whole new level. It's really up to you to personally decide if it's logical to keep the .1 as is, sell it and get a .3, upgrade to .3, or change just some of the components. Personally I would lead towards selling the .1 and buying a fresh .3, but that's just me.
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:33 AM   #682
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Originally Posted by bigco66 View Post
Hey guys i have a question I just built my new eb48.3 and i noticed that the center diff is rubbing the motor mount. It looks like it is one of the screw heads but they are all the way down. I am asking only to see if there is anyone else that has had this problem. I fixed the problem by having to dremel down the motor mount just a little!
I just got done with mine too. The same thing is happening to me.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:54 AM   #683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigco66 View Post
Hey guys i have a question I just built my new eb48.3 and i noticed that the center diff is rubbing the motor mount. It looks like it is one of the screw heads but they are all the way down. I am asking only to see if there is anyone else that has had this problem. I fixed the problem by having to dremel down the motor mount just a little!
Make sure the screws are REALLY all the way down. If you just snug them up then the paper gasket doesn't compress and the diff is fractionally bigger. I've seen this happen several times. You can also end up with the gear rubbing as you mentioned, or rubbing the top of the diff holder in just 1 spot as it spins. This is usually attributed to one of the screws not being as tight as the others.

Lastly, to make sure this can't happen, add a small shim into the motor mount side of the diff so it makes sure if there is any play that the diff is further back instead of forward. If you didn't need all of the shims from the front/rear diffs when placing them, one of those works perfectly.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:57 AM   #684
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Originally Posted by wheres_yogi View Post
Any thoughts on the full option shock kit? I have a .1 and was thinking about upgrading them. Just trying to see if it's worth yet.
Coming from the original, without options, the full option shock kits are a great upgrade that will enhance the life of everything in the shock while also making a smoother shock. Just make sure you get the length of shock you intend to, as it is different from the EB48 and EB48.2 on the EB48.3, since the EB48.3 matches the longer truggy length shocks. If you intend to get the parts to upgrade to the EB48.3 suspension geometry (arms, hubs, shock towers, shocks), then you will be happy with both the new shocks and the new suspension geometry.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:34 AM   #685
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Has anybody swapped to the universals? If so what are your thoughts.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:17 AM   #686
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Has anybody swapped to the universals? If so what are your thoughts.
I put the Kyosho universals in a few weeks ago figuring they'd help on our local, usually bumpy, track. I'm no expert driver, but I did like the feel. I can't describe it well, but it felt smoother. But even if they performed the same, I like the idea of lower maintenance.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:28 AM   #687
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Has anybody swapped to the universals? If so what are your thoughts.
I made a number of minor changes at the same time I added the universals. Driven the best it has so far. From design and maintenance wise, it was a no-brainer for me.
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:11 AM   #688
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Ok thanks. That's basically what I figured. Thanks fellas.
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:52 AM   #689
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typically universals give more side bite and sometimes less forward. I don't know if that's the case here as I haven't tried it, but that's what I've found in every other car.
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Old 11-17-2015, 05:44 PM   #690
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I don't know if there is a eb48.2 specific thread but I couldn't find it. Can anyone give me the link to the 48.3 upgrade kit for the 48.2? I found it before but can't remember where. ThAnks
I was also wondering if the 48.3 parts will fit the 48.2 individually? Like if I were to do one mod at a time. For example could I install the .3 arms then the .3 towers and shocks or are there certain things that need to be replaced together in order for them to work/fit?
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Last edited by Slapjack; 11-17-2015 at 07:02 PM.
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